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Clutch stuck- WTF!

6K views 28 replies 6 participants last post by  The Dude 
#1 ·
Well I did some sport driving and guess what...the clutch pedal didn't want to come back up and I had to use my foot to get it back up. Drove it a bit and then it acted fine. Did some more dumps and then it was on the floor again. WTF. Is this a master problem?

:huh:
 
#2 ·
Wow!!!! This has never happened to anyone I've known.:laughing: Joke.

This has been a problem for a while. Take a turkey baster and suck out your old dirty fluid. Put in some new clutch/brake fluid. Pump your clutch 30 to 40 times. Suck out the fluid again and keep doing it until your fluid is clear. I put a remote drain on my race car to battle this problem.





Jr.
 
#3 ·
Wow!!!! This has never happened to anyone I've known.:laughing: Joke.

This has been a problem for a while. Take a turkey baster and suck out your old dirty fluid. Put in some new clutch/brake fluid.Pump your clutch 30 to 40 times. Suck out the fluid again and keep doing it until your fluid is clear. I put a remote drain on my race car to battle this problem.

Jr.
I think I will put a remote drain on mine as well. I am almost ready to do the clutch anyway so I guess adding that durring the instal shouldn't be too bad. I will do the turkey baster thing in the mean time tho.

:partyon:
 
#4 ·
My 98 started doing this, then one day it just stuck to the floor and wouldn't come up.I had to pump the peddle about 40 times to build up presure to get it home. Turned out to be a bad slave cylinder. I just finished replacing it with a LS6 hydraculics and a LS7 clutch kit. I had 90,000 miles daily driven and no track time on it. Big job for a $135.00 part.







you can see the bad slave on the front
 
#7 ·
My 98 started doing this, then one day it just stuck to the floor and wouldn't come up.I had to pump the peddle about 40 times to build up presure to get it home. Turned out to be a bad slave cylinder. I just finished replacing it with a LS6 hydraculics and a LS7 clutch kit. I had 90,000 miles daily driven and no track time on it. Big job for a $135.00 part.
How long did it take? Also, how much of a PITA was it to get everything apart on jack stands?
 
#5 ·
If you are going to replace it, I would look into the Tick adjustable unit.
 
#6 ·
That's what I'm going with. Of course all of this may be on hold depending on what the axhaust looks like when I get to the yard tomorrow and look at the Kooks headers and Corsa muffs. The grand I have saved up would be better spent on that right now since new it is way more and I can just save up for the clutch again.
 
#9 ·
You see, THAT'S why I keep holding off on trying it that way. I don't know if I want to go that route if it's going to be a major paint in the ass. Let's see your pictures, especially getting the car up high enough.
 
#11 ·
AJ, it is actually a LOT easier than it looks to pull the rear out to get to the clutch. I have done both ways, and pulling the rear out is by far the easiest way for a street car. The last time I pulled it out, it took about 3 hours to do it including the exhaust.

You can get it high enough with any auto parts store 2k jack stand. It helps to have a 2nd set of hands to pull it and put it back in- simply to make it easier to maneuver the torque tube.



That is the only pic I have on my comp at the moment, but that is how it comes out. You can also see roughly how high the car is. The jack stands I used only go up 18", and they were sitting under 1" jacking pucks under the frame.
 
#12 ·
I know HOW to pull everything out, I just don't know how HARD it is to do on jack stands. I can easily do it with a lift, but I don't want to tie up my buddy's lift that long. You all know how slow I work!
 
#13 ·
It is unbelievably easy and can even be done with hand tools (I did). The only thing you really need other than basic hand tools is a ratchet strap, some wood blocks (to secure the jack to the trans) and someone to help lower it out and put it back up. The thing that sucks the most is removing the tunnel plate and its 36x 1/4" bolts.

with normal 2ton jackstands you don't have room to get on a creeper, but there is more than enough room without one. I would say it's difficulty would be as easy, if not easier, than pulling the engine from your caballero.
 
#14 ·
Hell, I can get the car up high enough with jack stand to roll under the car all over the place. The one thing that also concerns me is supporting the engine so that it does not lay up against the firewall and crack it.

 
#15 ·
I just used a bottle jack with a 2x4 under the oil pan. The torque tube has a diagram on how low you can go with it before you hit the firewall.
 
#17 ·
I installed my LG's on the same jackstands with a few blocks of wood.
 
#20 ·
You guys kill me with the way you put your car up in the air.:smack They will clown you hard at the track using wood. Not safe. Put the jack on the rocker panel and lift one side up. Slowly lower the jack onto jackstands that are at the jacking points on your rocker panel. Then repeat on the other side.






Jr.
 
#23 ·
This is why I have decided to get this.



You can read about it here.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-408SL-8-000-LB-Four-Post-Lift_2

The price of $2200 is not bad but add in the cost of changing my garage doors to roll up doors to give me the added space to lift will run an additional $1800 so we are about $4000 total. But I will be able to do what I want in my own garage and I won't have to buy a new house. So I save some money there.:thumbsup: Right?

I will say that this really works well for the Vette but won't lift all the way up with a regular vehicle because of the clearance. But it would still lift a regular vehicle up off the ground about as high as a medium hight lift would allowing most work to still be done without using jack stands. And you can get the inner lifts and stands to do alot of other work as well.

I do like it.

:partyon:
 
#25 ·
#28 ·
That's the one I'd like to get. :thumbsup:
 
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