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I repaired 1987 Corvette digital dash cluster myself

51K views 24 replies 18 participants last post by  docfmiles 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, I just repaired my dash in the 87 coupe. Followed Bryan Thompson's article on batee.com and got the dash to light up as it should. Ordered linear polarized film from polarization.com to replace the sunburned film on the front of the lcds, and it looks and works great. The only thing is the speedo is showing km-h, the switch on the control panel is in english, but it doesn't change anything when I move it from english to metric. Is there something else that changes the speedo from km to mph? Thanks, and I hope everyone out there who has a digital cluster that isn't working will follow the instructions and buy the film to fix the sunburn so they can have a great working cluster for less than a hundred bucks.

Having to edit my post. I had been doing a lot of reading up on these dashes, and I remembered the problem with it going dark when the headlights or park lights are turned on. This is happening to mine, but the turn signal indicators come on and stay on. I replaced the headlight switch about a year ago, but I think it still might be the problem. When I installed it, it worked perfectly, but after a while I noticed the headlights don't close when you switch back to park lights. You have to turn them completely off to get them to close, then turn back to park, and the headlights don't open until you turn them on. Any ideas on this? Thanks
P.S. I think I'll go ahead and invest in the headlight switch anyway, just to get them working properly, if nothing else.
 
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#5 ·
:thumbsup: Looks good too:thumbsup:

Can't wait to get rid of mine! Hasn't worked since day one and can't justify putting the time and $$ into it to repair it knowing I'm yanking it:laughing:

To the OP, post some pics though:thumbsup: :thumbsup: It's always good to do something yourself and have it turn out well:thumbsup:
 
#8 ·
Cluster Repair Polarizing Film

Just picked up an "84 in need of some TLC (1st vette) and I'm diving into a cluster rebuild. Nothing works on the display right now, and I mean nothing. So anyway, I've read a few fix-it articles but I haven't found one that talks about replacing the burnt film. Looking for some help about that and would also appreciate other recommended sources for general cluster repair.
 
#25 ·
Fixing the film

Just picked up an "84 in need of some TLC (1st vette) and I'm diving into a cluster rebuild. Nothing works on the display right now, and I mean nothing. So anyway, I've read a few fix-it articles but I haven't found one that talks about replacing the burnt film. Looking for some help about that and would also appreciate other recommended sources for general cluster repair.
I posted a repair guide on Bryan's site. It details the method for repairing a dash that has gotten "sunburned":partyon:
http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/film/index.htm
 
#10 ·
to tell you the truth, i just did my LCD's today and honestly.... i wasnt hard at all. for the past 6 months i have been driving without my dash, then read this post, called George from Alight out of San Antonio, Tx (210-545-6867)and ordered PFA-SM polarized film. 2 sheets that were 10x6 for 32.00 plus 7.80 for shipping. took about 1.5 hrs to rebuilt once the dash was removed. to me, 40 bucks is a hell of alot cheaper than replacing the whole dash (few hundred bucks there). i am among the few that had a sunfaded film and good LCD's. reinstalled the dash, hit the key, and BLAM. looks like the space shuttle is about to launch. i have never been so happy to see the dash light up like this. it is a very easy fix. and cheap.
 
#15 ·
hi guys...the digital cluster is a real nightmare for many of us,some months ago i tried to fix my faulty one ,using Batee's indications suggested in his tutorial .I had to fix the ground connections (3 wire),then i completely disassembly the cluster,arriving to open the two twin board and creating a new ground connetion between the boards soldering a little wire on one of the two board,i replaced the little bulbs on the cluster,then very carefully i re-assembled everything.when i putted in place the cluster and it worked like new!!! But in some day the cluster was black again...:bang :bang :bang Now i place some analog gauge in the dash using the factory multiconnector line to obtain the needed inputs (tachometer,fuell,oil pressure,water temp)
 
#17 ·
Very good job:partyon: :partyon: probably a carbon look back plate would matched the dark style of the dash,but it is just a point of view,the project is a perfect job, do all the gauges work well, do everyone macth the relative original sensors or senders resistance?do you replace some original sensors or senders with new one?do you have to rewire some gauge or do you use the original main connector into the dash?
 
#18 ·
I had to swap the water and oil sending units to the aftermarket ones. The fuel gauge I ran a line back to the tank I couldn't get it to work on the factory wiring. The tach used it's own wire from the dist. and the volts meter used the factory wiring. The speedo is the only thing I didn't have working but there is a controler I need to buy.
 
#19 ·
Not sure what the high failure rate is attributed to here......I followed Batee.com on my '84..............a year ago maybe??

Taking the cluster out.....45 minutes due to me being over cautious.

Taking the cluster apart took some time due to me having to run around and find a "Nut Driver" in the proper size.......(it was late on a Sunday night when most sources for tools were closed.....thank you Target)

I spend a good two hours carefully reflowing the solder on almost all the components on the more populated board.
-------This may be the problem, if many have no experience in electronics manufacturing, I can see where people may have troubles due to lack of knowledge.

Reflowing solder is a tedious task that takes a bit of the proper dexterity naturally possessed or developed over time in a Human.

I put the wrong bulbs in it and it usually is too bright.....so I stick a piece of paper in the square photo Diode to make it think that it is darker outside than it really is....this cures it from overheating.

The only issue didn't address carefully was cleaning the tracer contacts properly. I used a pencil erasure to clean....I may have left a piece in there as the "2" on my Tach is missing a bar......

So I am in no way perfect, but over a year later the thing works like a champ.
 
#22 ·
The oem GM sensors and sender work with their resistance,for example fuell sender works 0 ohm empty 90 ohm full,if you order a gauge that is 10 -184ohm like one that i ordered by mistake you cant use properly in your corvette.Be carefull to read the wiring resistance from the oem senders before order any gauges ,when you'r sure about everything make the order...
If you order the gauge and relative new sender unit there is not problem.
The best thing is to use the original main connector inside the dash,by inserting new gauges wires into the pinouts without cutting anything so you can come back to the original digital cluster by reconnecting the two connectors.Post a link to this gauges kit:thumbsup:
 
#23 ·
When I would turn my headlight on the dash would go dim, I had already soldered the circuit board as describe in several other post I have read. Still the problem existed, during the daytime the dash worked fine. The solution was very simple.
The ambient light senor located in the upper left of the dash is the culprit, this photo cell was basically dead. Check it by turning your headlights on when it is dark.
If your dash goes dim as mine did take a flash light and point it directly over the photo cell. Your dash should light right up. The easy fix is the disassemble the dash and get to the back of the photo cell and with a small wire, solder across the two leads.
 
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