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Best Hoist and technique?

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  ArKay99 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, getting prepared to pull the ol lump out of the nose of the 77. Obviously, I'll take the hood off, but I would really prefer not to take the front bumper off. What type of hoist/crane do I need? How far of a reach does it need? Is it possible to lift from the side instead of straight in? I'll remove the transmission out the bottom, so I will only be needing to lift the block out.

Also, I've already taken the heads off, looking for damage. Help me out...where can I lift the motor from?

Thanks guys!
 
#2 ·
You have several options.

I have a USA made hoist with a 5' boom on it so I use a tilter and pull the eng & trans as one from the front. These are SB engines, BB will be possible but I don't own any. The Tilter allows it to be done.

I have also pulled just engine out using a 4x4 "A" frame I built and a chain fall.

A lot of the common hoists(imported) do not have long enough booms and you will have to pull from the side of the car.

When I was a kid we stripped the 327 in my 67 down to the bare block in the car then used a sling between the open cylinders and 2x4 with a guy on each side to lift it out.

See what a rental place has, they just might have an old USA made hoist that will work.
 
#3 ·
Well, getting prepared to pull the ol lump out of the nose of the 77. Obviously, I'll take the hood off, but I would really prefer not to take the front bumper off. What type of hoist/crane do I need? How far of a reach does it need? Is it possible to lift front the side instead of straight in? I'll remove the transmission out the bottom, so I will only be needing to lift the block out.

Also, I've already taken the heads off, looking for damage. Help me out...where can I lift the motor from?

Thanks guys!
I know this is different than mine, but when I pulled my LS1 on my C5 I used a $150 2-ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight. I used a couple of bolts in the oold head mount bolt holes and chained to that. The trick with that one is on the C5 you have the torque tube which has the end of the propeller shaft mating to the crankshaft through a bearing and the nose of the shaft can bind in the bearing. You won't have that problem. I know you're in Orlando, but if you want, you can come by and I'll loan you my hoist. It folds up so you can fit it in the back of an SUV. As far as putting the LS1 in, I made my own lifting plates and attached them to the valley cover bolts. I can lend you those as well.
 
#4 ·
Thanks!

I was actually thinking about buying one instead of renting one, since I will need it several times and after a few rentals, I could have bought one. I'll see if I can find a reasonably priced USA one, but I suspect I'll have to settle for something imported. With tools I use all the time, I opt for good stuff. This is going to see only occasional use.

With the heads off, is there a place to bolt the chain onto the block? Will the accessory bolt holes be ok?
 
#5 ·
Thanks Arkay. I'm gonna wind up getting one, since we are going to be getting the LS swap done in "stages." More on that later.

I'll use Grade 8 bolts in some of the holes where the heads mounted. Just wanted to be sure there was no issues with that. I assumed an Iron block would be ok supporting its own weight, but I wanted to be 100% sure.
 
#7 ·
Just an FYI. The iron block won't be a problem, since it's most likely scrap anyway, but the weight of the block with the steel chains rubbing against the aluminum of the LS1 block will scratch and gouge it. If you look at an LS there is a valley between the heads and a valley cover goes between it. There a 10, I think bolts around the perimiter of it to not only hold it down, but seal it. I made a couple of plates and bolted those to those holes then attached turnbuckles to the chain and through the vertical struts of my plates. This way it was lifted from the top with no chance of a chain scoring any machined surfaces. I'm sure you know, the LS1 is a bit different than the older iron blocks in that the cooling for the heads comes up from vents in the block rather than through the intake manifold. Because of this the head decks need to be very flat and free from and imperfections or could get coolant into the tops of the cylinders. I'm looking for some pics of my swap and if I find them, I'll post them so you can see how it looked, using a cheapo chinese hoist. ;)
 
#6 ·
I found my USA made Arcan hoist at a local swap meet years ago for $200. I'm not even sure Arcan is in business anymore?

Kind of like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/engine-hois..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item1e76a4f9a5&vxp=mtr

You can pull a long block or short block with a sling or chain. I use the holes in the heads or intake but you can use the head bolt holes just pick one that has support casting around it A short block is about 300 lbs or less.
 
#8 ·
Thats good info!

We're actually holding off on the LS for several reasons right now. But it's still the long term goal.
 
#9 ·
Cool. If you want to look at the pics, let me know. I can either post them or email them to you.

Best of luck on the project either way. :thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
the engine tilter pictured in grumpyvettes and raid magic,s post is the kind to get hold of, i ve used them pulling out a 77 small block / TH350 in one piece and putting back in an LS / 4L60e. also used for a BB with 4 speed removal and put back in with a 5 speed. This is with a short hoist from the side of both vettes .Had to remove one front wheel to allow the leg of hoist to move in under the front/side of car . Need two people to make it easier
 
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