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Wiper door actuator rebuild...is it possible?

9K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  clemsontiger 
#1 ·
Is it possible to rebuild what you have? Does anyone sell a rebuild kit?
 
#6 ·
You can check to see if the front rod seal is bad by applying vacuum to one side or the other. If it only leaks on the rod side, pretty good chance it's only that seal. Otherwise, not rebuildable.
I had a 68 coffee can that leaked when I got it. Bought a replacement, it leaked a year later. Converted to pie pan style. The linkage was a mass of rust in a year and it leaked.
Switched to electric 5 years ago, when I did my LS swap, no problems since then.
 
#9 ·
I bought my actuator from these guys:
http://www.firgelliauto.com/
I made my own brackets, pretty simple.
It's wired to my dash wiper switch, no extra switch needed.
The only other parts were 2 relays to reverse polarity. A dpdt microswitch to replace the spst wiper door switch. The new dpdt actuates the wiper motor and acts as a limit switch for the wiper door open position. Also a diode for the open limit switch.
Total cost was about $100.
 
#11 ·
2" stroke mini actuator, similar to the one in the link. Although I think the one I got was a slower speed, higher force version of the one in the link. I wanted the door to close slowly to prevent it from shutting with the wipers still going. I dont see that version on the website any more, but you can contact them, see if it's still available.
BTW, I see the price went up $20 since I got mine.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=73&products_id=286
 
#12 ·
2" stroke mini actuator, similar to the one in the link. Although I think the one I got was a slower speed, higher force version of the one in the link. I wanted the door to close slowly to prevent it from shutting with the wipers still going. I dont see that version on the website any more, but you can contact them, see if it's still available.
BTW, I see the price went up $20 since I got mine.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=73&products_id=286
Hey that looks so good I almost didn't see it was the finished conversion! This should be a start on the headlight doors also?
 
#13 ·
There's a member here that use to make the brackets to fit TransAM headlight motors on C3's. I bought the brackets but haven't started the conversion yet but will start a thread once I do. I don't want any vacuum lines on my car.
 
#15 ·
pm me your email address and I'll send the PDF file for the headlight and wiper door test procedures. I have mine still in the box and it's unused so if yours is bad I'll sell it to you for $60 plus shipping as I paid $100+ dollars for it.
 
#17 ·
I bought the older version with a square body. They still list it in the longer stroke and the specs are still available for the 2" stroke (link below). It does look like the old one is 8.5" closed vs the new 9.25".
In the photo, part of the body is in the wiper well. I removed the "scissor" mechanism and mounted the actuator strait to the arm on the shaft in there. So there is about half the actuator inside.
On the plus side, it looks like the rounded new version wont require as much clearancing of the firewall or aluminum bracket inside the well.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=129
 
#18 ·
I bought the older version with a square body. They still list it in the longer stroke and the specs are still available for the 2" stroke (link below). It does look like the old one is 8.5" closed vs the new 9.25".
In the photo, part of the body is in the wiper well. I removed the "scissor" mechanism and mounted the actuator strait to the arm on the shaft in there. So there is about half the actuator inside.
On the plus side, it looks like the rounded new version wont require as much clearancing of the firewall or aluminum bracket inside the well.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=129
Thanks Gary,
3/4" isn't much difference, I think I was missing that part of yours was into the wiper well. Should be fine :thumbsup:
Bill
 
#19 ·
Just a follow-up for anyone that may search this in the future...I was able to fix the actuator with the rear rod seal. Just fyi, if the actuator will work using either the front vacuum port or the rear vacuum port, but not the other, the bladder is good and either the plug in the front is bad or the rod seal in the rear is bad. If the door will go up, but not down...it's the plug. If the door will go down, but not up...it's the rod seal. Hope this helps someone else!
 
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