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Cluster Repair & Polarizing Film

12K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  TommyFox 
#1 ·
Just picked up an "84 in need of some TLC (1st vette) and I'm diving into a cluster rebuild. Nothing works on the display right now, and I mean nothing. So anyway, I've read a few fix-it articles but I haven't found one that talks about replacing the burnt film. Looking for some help about that and would also appreciate other recommended sources for general cluster repair.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Right, here's what I've seen and what I have. Including the other thread I ran through and read the batee.com instructions. I have Gordon Killebrew's 1984-1989 step-by-step digital cluster guide, and GM's 1984 Corvette shop manual. None mention the polarizing film, at least I didn't see it.

I haven't pulled the cluster yet nor have I attemped to play with any grounds or fuses. Just too cold up here in the artic circle (Chicago) right now. Got to get that garage heater. Anyway, before I start I wanted to get some insight from the folks who've been through this. Thanks.
 
#9 ·
None of the digital dash fixes mention the polarized film. I sent an e-mail to polarization.com and asked if they had film that would work on the lcds. Their answer was yes, that they actually supplied the film to shops that repaired the corvette digital dashes. My dash would light up, but you could not tell if any of the gauges were working.I ordered the film they recommended,removed the old film,(tough job) and installed the new and lo and behold the gauges are working and looking great.
You need to print the instructions from batee.com so you can have them handy to repair the solders in the dash just as instructed in the article, and it will probably give you a fix. Practice a little with the soldering iron on something of little value and be patient. It works!
 
#4 ·
I would send a personal message to catman87, in his thread he wrote..."Ordered linear polarized film from polarization.com to replace the sunburned film on the front of the lcds, and it looks and works great."

it sounds like he could point you in the right direction, if from nothing else than experience. If he cant help ask grumpyvette, seems like he knows everything :thumbsup:
 
#5 ·
on the cluster from my '86, Ithought the polarized film had been sunburned, because of how it looked, my cluster also quit working completely, or so I thought. The problem with my cluster was that the ambient light sensor was completely unresponsive to light. after replacing it, everything started working correctly again, for a while. I ended up re-soldering the ground points on the main boards inside the cluster. Luckily thats all that was required on mine, but that ambient light sensor would be the first thing to check.
 
#6 ·
First You MUST Verify that the grounds are not loose......After that pull the panal out and clean the conections....If after that nothing appears it's new display time....Do you have at least a turn signal arrow..Not flashing but lite...That is a sign of ground problems...The Digi Dash Can be a Real Ball Breaker...I'm close to you...Pm Me:thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the offer, Happydad. Will take your advice and let you know how it goes. Waiting for warmer weather before I start things - at least 30's, easier to keep the garage warm.

Also, thanks everyone else for your response. Cool place.:thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
The film on mine was really stuck. I think all of it has a really strong adhesive. I used a razor blade to remove mine. If it isn't too brittle, when you get a corner started you might be able to peel most of it off. After removing, I used 91% alcohol to clean it and only handled it by the edges. Be very careful using the razor blade and handling the glass of the lcd while removing the film, as either one will really cut a finger or hand.
If you haven't installed any window tinting film before, you might want to get a buddy who has to help install the new film. You don't want any wrinkles or bubbles in it. When you get ready to reassemble the dash, be sure to follow the instructions from batee.com on cleaning the lcd glass really good with the 91% alcohol. This removes dirt and especially any oil that might get on it from your skin while handling.When you read the instructions on reassembly, you will see what I'm talking about. The oil from the skin will prevent the lcd from making electrical contact and that part of your lcd will not light up.
Cheer up, it isn't nearly as bad as it seems.I first thought it was impossible for me to do, but after I started I found it wasn't near as bad as I thought. You will be happy to find that you can make it work again by yourself.Let me know how it comes out and if you have more questions, just ask.
Keep the faith.
 
#12 ·
Well I can see why there isn't much in the way of instrutions on this. I'm just the kind of person who would try this though, seems like I always learn the hard way. What the heck? Will let you know how it goes, once it warms up a bit here I'm going to start. Been a nasty year so far- whatever happened to global warming? Thanks agian, Catman.
 
#13 ·
Polarized Film Replacement on C4 Speedo

I bought the polarized film as mentioned in earlier posts, I got the high contrast stuff PFSC at www.polarization.com, in Texas, about $30 for a 8.5" x 11" sheet, no adhesive.
I see now in the updated website I should have bought the PFHC, which comes with the anti-glare & hardcoat and adhesive, but the PFSC looks fine. Pulled out the cluster, took it apart from the back all the way down to the glass, thinking no way the foam connectors for the glass are going to make a good connection after this level of disassembly. Just did the speedo side, the others hadn't been burned clear. By hand, no tools, just fingernail, I peel off the old film, stuck really tight, most of the glue stayed with the glass, looked really bad, but the solvent for the glue was still there, by the smell. I cut a piece of the new film, and just laid it on the nasty layer of glue, guessing that no one could see the glue structure through the film, and it was a good guess. Didn't have to worry about bubbles or air pockets, the new film is stiff, just start at one end and lay it down. In fact, I took it off to reposition it a little, just used light finger pressure to land it on the glass. Remembered to peel off the protective film on both sides of the new film, worried for a little bit if I had put it on in the correct orientation X to Y, said hell with it, and go. It all went back together just fine, no missing segments, no solvents used, paper towel wipe of the contact lands on the circuit boards, and done in a clean environment, washed hands several times, it looks great! I wouldn't have given anyone two cents for the chances of it working, at the start.
 
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