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C5 turn signal bulb replacement w/(PICS) write up...

59K views 66 replies 22 participants last post by  The Torch 
#1 · (Edited)
Well for some of you that talked to me about replacing the turn signal bulb in the pass. side of my 2000 hardtop, here is the write up and pics to go with it. It's not much of a write up, but I had no idea how to get to the bulb and a BIG thanks to The Bad and b2gcoder for there imput and how to info. Here is my write up and a few pics to go with it!


The bulb is going to cost you around $4 or $5 depending on where you get it from. I tried Wal-Mart first, but could not find it there, so I had to go to a parts store and they had it for $4.47...which the guy says to me before he tells me the price "Wow, this bulb is expensive!" I'm thinking he's going to tell me it cost $10 or $15! Then he tells me the cost, and then I'm ok again.

You will find that MOST of us can not reach the bulb from the top at all. So here is the best way to get to the bulb.

You will need...a small tool kit for the screws, a floor jack (or two) and maybe a small cloth towel (in case the bulb is hot). AND the bulb too!

First off...find a location where you have the most level surface and some room to lay down...your going to need the most room by the nose of the car. Plus, jacking a car up on an uneven surface is just asking to get something crushed...and that's just not good! :crazy:

Second....Most floor jacks are NOT going to slide under the bottom of a C5...so it helps to grab the one out of your wife, or friend or other car to get it started. Make SURE you are putting the jack in the correct place on the frame of your car...last thing you want to do is start jacking the floor out of the car!

As for me...I used the second jack to get it up in the air, then used a floor jack for the rest of the job, because it's more sturdy and safe.



Once the nose is in the air far enough to safely side under your going to be looking for the screws that hold the lower brake air intake cover on....there should be 3 or 4 of them...so just take those out!



Once they are out...it should look like this!



Now comes the FUN part! You'll need to bend this back toward the tire so that you can reach your arm up into the nose to find the bulb and housing area. Pull it back toward the tire like so...



For me...I could feel three bulbs...the fog light, and the large housing for the corner light and turn signal bulb. You will be able to tell which one you need as they are in the same housing...you want the one that is closest to the front.
Once you find the closest one to the front, you may need to give it a little twist or two to get it loose again. To get the bulb free twist it counter clockwise, or left towards the front.

Now that you have the bulb out of the housing...it may be hot so be careful. It should cool down fairly quickly but just in case it's smart to have a small cloth rag there to hold it for now. The bulb should pull right out, but it may be a little difficult to get both hands up into the same spot...so it helps to have some one there to help in this situtation. With the hood open, have the other person grab the plastic part of the bulb socket to help pull the bulb out. Then grab the new bulb and put that one in with there help. Again, since you may want to have the headlights up so that the person helping you can better reach that area, the bulb may get hot quickly...so be careful.

Now that the new bulb is in...MAKE SURE IT WORKS before putting everything back together! You can just see the bulb in the picture below and make sure the blinker is working again too!



Now just put the bulb back in the correct location, make sure to twist back to the right (clock wise) and make sure that it is locked in place. Next put the peices back together and repeat the process in reverse order to put the Vette back down!

The whole process shouldn't take longer than a half hour, tops! I did this over at my in-laws garage since my father in law has a nice big garage and floor jack. My wife says to me on the way home. "You like working on your car and getting your hands dirty, don't you? Even the small stuff like that bulb!" "I can see it in your eyes." :thumbsup: :D

Hope this helps!

James

1N189
 
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#5 ·
Thanks for the write up. I am sure I will refer to it sometime soon. :thumbsup:

Darrell
 
#9 ·
Maybe an easier way

I'm not sure what year your vette is, or of it matters. I counldn't find the screws and panel to take off from underneath. Instead, I just pushed back the air duct from the front opening and found that with a litle effort "(nd sweaty wrists), I could slide my hand in far enough to turn the bulb holder and remove it. The wire is long enough that it will handgout of the front opening, and then push it back through before you reinsert your hand. I wear a large golf glove, so you don't need really small hands to do this, but the sweat definitely helped.

The local Chevy dealer wanted $60 when I called about this.
 
#10 · (Edited)
bulb replacement

Nice write up. I've had my car for 8 months and have replaced the left front turn signal bulb for the 3rd time. The first time shortly after buying the car. I believe, at least in part moisture is responsible for the bulb failures. I noticed the first two failures after using one of the drive through car washes with the application of the under carriage wash. The air duct was out of place and I have since fixed it but had yet another bulb failure. I also have a hair line crack in the front of the lens about an inch long but have not done anything to repair it as of yet. Replacing the bulb every 6 mos or so is not a problem but the idea of a $900 dollar repair from the dealer as I've seen in one of other threads is, as is the $60 fee described here. Even at the rate of 4 failures a year at 15 minutes each to repair for me can't justify taking it to the dealer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The last bulb lasted several months. I used Sure Connect Grease on the bulb base the last time I installed the Sylvania replacement. The difference in bulb life was significant. This time I used the grease liberally where the three wires enter the bulb receptacle and around the bulb itself. Hopefully the results will improve again.
 
#11 ·
Nice write up. I've had my car for 8 months and have replaced the left front turn signal bulb for the 3rd time. The first time shortly after buying the car. I believe, at least in part moisture is responsible for the bulb failures. I noticed the first two failures after using one of the drive through car washes with the application of the under carriage wash. The air duct was out of place and I have since fixed it but had yet another bulb failure. I also have a hair line crack in the front of the lens about an inch long but have not done anything to repair it as of yet. Replacing the bulb every 6 mos or so is not a problem but the idea of a $900 dollar repair from the dealer as I've seen in one of other threads is, as is the $60 fee described here. Even at the rate of 4 failures a year at 15 minutes each to repair for me can't justify taking it to the dealer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The last bulb lasted several months. I used Sure Connect Grease on the bulb base the last time I installed the Sylvania replacement. The difference in bulb life was significant. This time I used the grease liberally where the three wires enter the bulb receptacle and around the bulb itself. Hopefully the results will improve again.

I have had the same problem. Someone that works at a dealer posted that the issue is water coming in and touching the hot bulb. The fix is to seal the housing with silicone where it is cracked. I plan to take the signal housing out through the bottom when it gets warmer here and seal it up.

For me it is an easy reach in to replace it from the top. I just remove that hood aligning bolt and with the light open there is enough room for me to get to it. It is helpful to have someone hand you the bulb as you need to remove and replace one handed. Now that I've done it 3 times it is easy.
 
#12 ·
The bulb should pull right out, but it may be a little difficult to get both hands up into the same spot...so it helps to have some one there to help in this situtation. With the hood open, have the other person grab the plastic part of the bulb socket to help pull the bulb out. Then grab the new bulb and put that one in with there help.
1N189
Thanks for the write up.

I have the bulb and it's holder removed from the turn signal housing. For the life of me, I cannot get the bulb out of the holder. Is there something I need to do special to remove the bulb from the holder? Do I need a special bulb removal tool. It looks like there are 2 tabs, one on each side of the bulb. Do I need to pry these apart to get the bulb out?

Frustrating...
:bang:
 
#13 ·
You don't need anything. You just need to tug and gently wiggle the bulb until it comes out. WARNING: Obviously, your bulb has rusted into the socket. Thus, WEAR SOME THICK GLOVES when tugging on it as it can shatter in your hand. That would be a nasty cut.

I also suggest that you replace your DRL housing. The bulb has obviously burned a hole in the lens and that is how water is entering the housing and blowing the bulb. Common problem. See picture below:



By the way, there's a quicker way to change those bulbs. This is quite an old thread so I guess it wasn't figured out by then, Here you go.

 
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#14 ·
Replace bulb

You don't need anything. You just need to tug and gently wiggle the bulb until it comes out. WARNING: Obviously, your bulb has rusted into the socket. Thus, WEAR SOME THICK GLOVES when tugging on it as it can shatter in your hand. That would be a nasty cut.

I also suggest that you replace your DRL housing. The bulb has obviously burned a hole in the lens and that is how water is entering the housing and blowing the bulb. Common problem. See picture below:



By the way, there's a quicker way to change those bulbs. This is quite an old thread so I guess it wasn't figured out by then, Here you go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaUEoD2CH4k&feature=channel_video_title
Yo Junk, I knew you would be all over this one. I used your method to replace both of mine in like 5 minutes. Easy...
 
#18 ·
You're welcome. You are still going to have to fix that broken lens or every bulb that you put in there is going to blow the second one drop of water touches it.

On a side note, check out these thread on how to post and resize images. I think that you will find them useful. ;)
 
#22 ·
Either my thumb or index finger, I can't remember since it has been so long. I replaced my lenses so that I wouldn't have to keep replacing the bulbs and then I got a Tiger Shark. Been years since I've had to change those bulbs.
 
#25 ·
Ok well im going to get a bulbs tomorrow. Dont know if this will work for me as i have rather large hands (size 13 wedding ring).
But ill give it a try. My passenger side blinker up front doesn't work and the turn signals flash fast annoying me to death.
My question is my drl housing has a crack i noticed, i know it needs to be replaced. How hard is this any DIY's aj:D
 
#28 · (Edited)
It's relatively easy to replace the housing. You can raise the front end and go through the bottom access panel. If you decide to go through the top, make sure that you disconnect the headlight power harness! If you don't, that headlight bucket will close on your hand in exactly 15 minutes after you turn the power off to the light. I have yet to make that mistake but I hear the pain is beyond words.

Here are the instructions, and some pictures that will help.

This picture is what you would see when looking at the housing from the bottom of the car.




This picture is with the bumper off the car, and looking at the housing at eye level.






Again, from the bottom, but of the driver's side of the car (the other views were of the passenger's side).




From the top again. Remember, I have a Tiger Shark front fascia so my vents look a little different but the removal and installation is exactly the same as it is on a stock bumper.

 
#27 · (Edited)
Well... it went back in is about 30-seconds, but I could not get to the tab to take it back out, so I guess my had is just not configured that way... tab is blocked by the housing unless I come through the headlight opening.

However, now that I have the new bulb in I see that I am still not getting the high-beam filament on the bulb to work - so no flasher on the right front or bright running light during daytime on front right. The low-beam filament does work (but so did the old one). (Note: Rear turn signals work fine as well as the left front).

Is there a separate fuse for that one bulb or do I maybe have a signal stalk going out?
 
#29 · (Edited)
... Is there a separate fuse for that one bulb or do I maybe have a signal stalk going out?
No. What you have is a corrosion issue. Water has gotten into that socket and rust has developed on the contacts. You need to either clean that socket out real well, or replace it.

Don't go to the dealer trying to get one of those sockets because they want $70+ smackers for one! :surprised

I have seen them on Amazon for $33 and up.
 
#31 ·
junkman, i'll have you know that i only joined this forum because i had to express my gratitude for your explanation of how to change the DRL...i now also know that i will need to change the housing but your method is outstanding sir!

bought the car in December and the bulb was already blown. had some new tires put on the front and the shop took the liberty of replacing it for me. however, my wife tried to surprise me by having the car washed and ended up in hiding because she thought she had messed up the light!

i found ur video first on youtube and now i'm here!
 
#32 ·
Well my friend, first allow me to welcome you to the forum. :buhbye:

Second, the C5 as you will find out, has a few common issues that we all experience. The burnt DRL housing is just one of them. I have pretty much documented most of them with a DIY writeup so that you can fix these issues yourself. For the most part, you don't need any fancy tools and your mechanical skills do not require ASE certification. To give you an idea as to how much you need to know, this is the first car that I have actually done anything to other than changing the oil. If I can fix it, anyone can.

Feel free to holler at me if you have any issues. :thumbsup:
 
#33 ·
Wow, wish I'd searched for this last week Thank you Junkman for posting this. I was in the process of replacing my front passanger side wheel hub and need to replace the DRL lamp for some time now. Even with the tire off, and the panel cover completley removed it was a PITA. Next time, its going to be done your way.:cheers:
 
#35 · (Edited)
I'm all about saving a headache man. That's why I don't work on cars!

Junkman... you were right (pause for head-swell). I pulled the socket back out and tested the contacts with a probe test light and the contact set for the low beam was no problem, but I had to work the probe back and forth to get the turn signal to start flashing on the tester. So that told me that the problem was indeed in the socket and you could see some corrosion.

I cleaned it out and slightly bent the contact in question - took a couple wiggles on the bulb and I am back in business. However, I am guessing that the socket probably needs replacing... so I will start track that down.

Thanks for the tips!:thumbsup:
Get it from Amazon. Every place other than them is going to want one of your nuts, and I don't mean your Planter's either. :laughing:
 
#36 ·
Are you talking about the socket for the bulb in the front turn signal housing? If so (its early I may have misread) but you can get them on Amazon for around 8 or 11 dollars. AJ posted a link a long time ago to a site with all kinds of GM sockets to choose from. I used that to get my model number and then searched on Amazon for the right one. I'll look through my Amazon acct and see if its still there. No reason to overpay for something like that.

Course I might be talking about the wrong thing too........
 
#37 ·
Found it.

Pico 5447pt Stp/Tail/Turn/Park Skt-Gm90-92

$7.95 + shipping on Amazon. Hope that's the right thing.

 
#39 ·
Technically, that's not the right socket. I don't know if it will fit or not but that is not the socket the parts manual list. I posted a link from Amazon to the correct socket (AC Delco LS15 - GM Part Number 12083689) in post #29. I think the one you've posted is for a C3. I'm not 100% sure about that but I know the correct part is a AC Delco LS15. Seventy-two smackers at the dealer, $32 and up at Amazon.
 
#38 ·
When I put my clear housings in I plan on replacing both plugs- 1 is a little shitty the other looks meh. Also discovered recently I need to replace a few tail light plugs too....
 
#42 ·
My dealership is closed today but I will double check again, although I'm 100% sure on my part numbers. I've already checked previously.

EDIT: I just did a check at GM Parts Giant using my VIN number and the part number I posted previously (12083689). It says that it is a match for my car.
 
#45 ·
I went to the dealership and verified that the LS-15 was correct for my 2001. The parts computer showed 2 on the car at $71.00 each. That's how I know that the LS-15 works for our year car. It should be the same for the entire C5 series. All of our running lights and turn signals work the same.

I also just checked my C5 parts manual and it shows that socket as GM part number 12083689, with the description:

Socket, FRT PARK & T/SIG LP (2.694) (AC-DELCO #LS15) 97-02 Y (EXC T90)

I'd say that's a lock. On a side note, I think that you and I are among the few folks who post pictures that actually know how to take a crisp and clear close ups. Most pictures I see like this are as blurry as that first one you posted from the web. I must have seen that one a thousand times.
 
#47 ·
OK... just received the new socket from Amazon. Everything looks correct. My question is in reference to their included Grease Instruction Sheet (at the bottom of the photo). What are they talking about? Are they saying to fill the entire inside of the connector with Di-Electric grease???

Not sure what a Napthentic Grease is?

"Filled to the extent that light does not pas through"?

 
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