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1971 - What to look for when buying

8K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  redmen031 
#1 ·
Going to go check out a '71 on Friday, might make the guy an offer judging by how it looks. Can you guys tell me if this looks like a good deal and what I should be looking for when inspecting it? I am not very well versed when it comes to C3's. TIA:thumbsup:

My initial thought is that it is priced a bit high...:huh:

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For Sale : 1971 Chevrolet Corvette. Small Block, Automatic, Air Conditioning, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Power Windows, T-Tops, Am/Fm Cassette. This Car was fully Disassembled, Stripped and Primed. The car is ready for the final body work and Paint. A great body mans car. Car runs good.
$8500.00

A reply to one of my emails:
The car was stripped to the bare fiberglass. There was no body work done on the car. the car will need some minor body filling to get the car straight, they all do. I don't see fiberglass work needed. the birdcage looks good and the chassis is not rotted.
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#3 ·
Is it a 71 or 72? "Runs good" would concern me...Other than body work, what else does it need to make it enjoyable? 8500 seems bit high if it need a lot of work.
 
#5 ·
We've all been there...they are painting on my floor today, so the fumes are making me a lil loopy.

The tail lights aren't stock and the steering wheel isn't either. Give the car a good full look over and have it insepcted if it passes your initial expectations.
 
#6 ·
I think the biggest things are look for the birdcage rust and where the frame kicks up before the rear wheels. If that's rust free then check out the body mounts. The price seems high to me it better run like a top for that money. Good looking car from the pics though.
 
#7 ·
seems a little high to me. But the chromies do bring money. I agree that the steering wheel is not stock and the interior looks a little rough. Lot's of ??? 's here.

But with that said, if you are looking for a C3 (good man BTW :)) it could be a good start. Check the frame good and look for any rust at the door pillars and windshield. Just because he says the Bird cage and frame is good, doesn't mean it is.

One other thing to think about, and I am a huge proponent to restoring these car, is that you will probably be able to buy a frame off rebuilt one for what you will have in this by the time you get done! :cheers:
 
#8 ·
How was the paint stripped? You could have chemical issues with future paint if done wrong?

That said, it needs a lot of $$$$ invested. If the frame and birdcage are actually solid, I wouldn't go anything over $6000. Interior looks rough, who knows on the suspension?, who knows what's under the primer?, body should have been sealed and body work done prior to primer (they may be covering something up?), are the door hinges solid?, door gaps even? do the window mechanisms work properly? How "good" does it run?

As said, check the #2,#3,#4 body mounts on each side, check the windshield frame, check the frame where it kicks up in the back as well as the frame gussets in front of the rear wheels.

This thing could be a money pit. Calculate what it will be worth when completed and work back from that number with the cost of all your repairs. You may be better off continuing your search.

:cheers:
 
#9 ·
NO mileage numbers?
 
#11 ·
If you can take it for a very long test drive and see how it drives and feels.
I think the price may be a litttle high I paid about half that .
Is it matching numbers?

Have they only done body work there could be alot more that might need to be done?
 
#12 ·
1. Frame rust - in front of the kickup in front of the rear tires as well as radiator support. Get under there and poke around.
2. Birdcage - with the doors open, tap firmly on the windshield frame. Look for rust falling out the bottom of the frame.
3. Is it numbers matching? Seems like that used to mean a lot more, but now a days the cool customs and restomods are fetching as much or more than the top flight restorations.

If the frame and 'cage look good and the suspension doesn't need an immediate overhaul I'd say it would be work a good $6000, but it depends on your intent.

What do you want out of this car? Full on restoration? Streetrod? Weekend cruiser?
 
#14 ·
What do you want out of this car? Full on restoration? Streetrod? Weekend cruiser?
I think cruiser would be what I'm shooting for. Doesn't have to be showroom quality and doesn't have to run down the track in 9 seconds, just a fun car to drive around and enjoy.

Thanks for all the replies so far guys, it's really helping:thumbsup:
 
#13 ·
I would be willing to bet the motor is either not original or at least parts of it are not..... (ie. the EGR intake manifold that didn't come out for some years after 71)....

I am not sure if $8500 is high or not...I paid less then that for mine with #s matching(same options as yours), and a decent paint job, but the interior and suspension was wasted so.... Either way they are money pits so just be prepared to dump your retirement into it....its cool, we all do it...:thumbsup:
 
#16 ·
Agreed. Right now I'm thinking 6K, but of course there's alot more car to see once I get down there. That number can go down or up depending on its "health"

One more day:thumbsup:
 
#18 ·
Update:

The vette looked good. The body panels all lined up and it doesnt seem to need any bodywork, maybe just a light wetsanding of the primer. The chrome bumpers are a little pitted and will need to be restored. The engine and bay looks clean and it seems to run strong and maintain a steady idle. (I didnt take it for a ride though). Glass all looks good, windows work, doesn't leak, door handles are in good shape. Interior is in pretty decent shape but will need a little TLC. Frame and birdcage are solid and shows no signs of rust.

For the bad:

Like I said the bumpers will need to be worked on, light wetsanding and paint will also be needed. The headlights do not come up. The windshield wipers do not work. The seats need to be recovered. The rear exhaust is rusted out and will need to be replaced.

All in all it looks like a pretty good project car, just not for $8,500 however. The owner has alot of time and money involved and seems to be in no rush to sell it, he's just trying to recoup some of the money that was invested. Funny thing is it's actually being sold through a corvette shop I use all the time, great guy that works there so I know he's no trying to screw me.

However $8,500 is too high for the current condition, so I'll keep looking. Maybe he will come down on price soon, maybe not.

Thanks for all the help guys!:thumbsup:
 
#21 ·
Even though you passed already, I wanted to throw in my .02 since I just bought a '71 coupe a few months ago. Even though I think 8500 is high, I think you will be hard pressed to find a solid bumper car for 6k. Between 4 and 6k I would expect a total resto/redo. You said you want it for a driver, and since it looks complete for your needs (without seing more pics) I think you will be good at 7-7.5k. I looked for months and finally landed on mine, which had the interior completely out, all original suspension (being replaced currently) and epoxy primer needing a little body work as well as underbody that needs completely gone through. Also I was missing some exterior and interior parts. Basically, it was no where near driver status and I paid 4.5k. I think you are looking for something that will be very few and far between at 6k, and as long as you are willing to be patient then I hope you find it! I was not prepared to spend 8.5k as I wanted a project but I would have been all over a solid '71 at 7-7.5!:thumbsup:
 
#23 ·
Chiming in even though you decided, or may go back to the guy later.

I say go for it. Yes it may be $1000.00 more than a 1975 one same condition but just look at what you would have at the end. You spend lots of time and money on parts, etc.. and you get a nice 1971 the color you want and as much upgraded / replaced as you want.

Then you have a 1971 chrome bumper car not a 1975 plastic bumper car. Take it to shows, people who know things about Corvettes know the chrome bumper cars are much more valued and difficult to find. A '75 is a '75.

You might even have a removable rear window in the 1971.

Anyone care to guess the difference in value between a nice 1971 car and a nice 1975 car? Is it over $1000.00???

So many reasons to go, go , go for it!
 
#26 ·
I have been watching this thread and I have to agree with this! :thumbsup:

When you are working on a 72 what does a grand duck mean? Nothing. If that is your only issue and you think the car is solid, my advice is buy it! :cheers:
 
#28 ·
All very good points made so far, and these things did cross my mind. However I am not really in a huge rush to grab another vette, I think I will take my time and find exactly what I am looking for. I may even consider spending some extra cash in a few months to a year and buy one that is more or less complete. Between full time school and full time work I dont really have all that much time to tinker on these vettes anyway, so perhaps a more complete vette would make more sense, unless of course the right deal landed in my lap. Apparently this '71 has been for sale for a while, and I dont think it will be selling anytime soon. Hopefully I will get a call back soon with a lower asking price, then I wont be able to say no:thumbsup:
 
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