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Stingray V12 build....

193K views 536 replies 94 participants last post by  Marks76ray 
#1 ·
I've been working on this swap/rebuild/restoration a little over a year and ½....

Matt AKA DB- graciously asked me to bring the build over here- where I might get a little more appreciation or rather a perceptive recognition of the quality in the build rather than how sacrilegious it is...Heaven forbid an European Engine in a Corvette...Personally I think Duntov would dig it -
“Zora Arkus-Duntov was born in Belgium, raised in Leningrad, and educated in Berlin.
He brought his European automotive high-performance experience to bear on the just-introduced Corvette”

Here's what I'm placing between the frame rails...



A BMW V12 circa mid nineties- it's an all aluminum 60 degree with 322HP stock NET....10:1 compression-roller single overhead cam which weighs in around 500lbs.
Dimensionally it's about the same size as the LS5 that was originally in my car...but the "numbers matching" motor was long gone when I bought it in 1980....



 
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#150 ·
I'm picking up my intakes tomorrow- Finally!!! My buddy said it was a bitch to to do...

Ordered my AC set up- actually found a better compressor and DC controller from an outfit in Canada- Cool-It. It's used on Tractor Trailers- thanks to the no-idle laws...also for roof mounting in Vans to cool the cargo area. And pulls about 35amps at full tilt.

I'm also thinking I can work on my car in the summer- just hook up my battery charger and have cold AC blowing on me...




After some research I've decided to go w/ the Vintage Air set-up...from what I've read it seems to be the preferred piece. Plus I like the electronic controls they have.
I'll just mount the DC compressor on the passenger side wheel well.



I stopped by the u-pull-it and grabbed several headlight motors from 93-97 Ford Probes- I saw a guy on one of the other forums used them- and after messing w/ it -it looks to be pretty straight forward.

I'm getting ready to solder....heat shrink...just a few wires...

I've only got 137days till the Hot Rod Power Tour...

Richard

 
#153 ·
Thanks guys...When am I gonna fire it up?...I'm hoping in a couple weeks...by the end of this month is my goal...

A big milestone..The hood fits...I was hoping the fuel rails would fit under the L88 hood and they did..otherwise it was going to be like $600-700 in shorter injectors....

If you look closely you can see the rails- and there is almost an inch in clearance...



The air chamber was sacrificed...I'll have to make up a new one...





Here's the intakes -and they fit too!!! I spent a few hours grinding and sanding at my buddy's machine shop- It was a joy w/ the downdraft bench and a stack of sanding rolls-soda blaster...







I starting making up the harness...not too bad...wires will be covered in a plastic trough from BMW parts I have laying around.


Richard
 
#154 ·
This build is just over the top cool. The intakes look awesome, I know you said they were being welded but these look like castings. There are even center mounts for attachments that appear cast into the runners.

Someday, I want to see this car in person. Perhaps on the hot rod power tour, maybe 2014 or 2015 if someone hasn't hauled it off by then leaving you a huge pile of cash.

Great work, as usual........
 
#155 ·
Well...thanks...

But we can just cut out the middleman- YOU send me a huge pile of cash and I'll make sure you see it in person!!!

The intakes- the runners are OEM BMW - I cut down the original intakes and them milled them level. I got off eBay some waterjet cut 6061 aluminum Weber DCOE flanges for mounting the throttle bodies...

So it's really just hobbled together w/ old parts...

Richard
 
#158 ·
OK...what about- After being crouched over on my knees working on the vette for hours- I "hobbled" out of the basement because it was way past my bedtime...

I got my DC powered compressor and it's gonna fit!!

It's going in the pass side wheel well and will be connected to a Vintage Air system...I just temporarily mounted it -it's a lot heavier than I thought and the motor controller looks like it hold up pretty well-it was designed to mount on the back of a cab on an 18 wheeler...

Richard





 
#159 ·
I like it, has me thinking about retrofitting one or two of the cars I've already completed. As you know these cars are never really done...

There is always something new to add or upgrade. I've picked up quite a few great ideas from your "hobbled" together parts. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the A/C motor/compressor and controller?

Keep at it and keep the updates coming. Look forward to seeing your progress.
 
#160 ·
Hey 7t-

Done?What's that?

I had looked all over for DC powered compressors- There's several guys converting electric vehicles that are using the Masterflux 'Seirra' (by Tecumseh ) but it just looked to homemade as far as the controller. I had emailed a company in Texas (Revolt) a couple of times that was selling these - ready to drop a grand w/ them- but no response...

I just happened to look on eBay and found these guys- did some research - talked to them on the phone and got it a little cheaper than they had it on eBay-

Here's the ebay listing - item number 160933058360

and link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160933058360?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Here's there website- http://www.cool-it.ca/

I finished up my coil harnesses last night while watching that "auction" and was blown away how much the restomods are selling for. And that they seem to be the new want.

I'm committed to finishing it now..I've already registered for the Hot Rod Power Tour!!!

Back at this morning-

Richard
 
#162 ·
Thanks...

More hobbling up some parts I had laying around....

I was at the junkyard last week and picked up some Ford Probe Headlight motors for about $15 a piece...I saw a guy on the "other" forum than had done a headlight conversion...I though it was a neat idea - but I wanted to tweek it- simplify the wiring- tuck in the motors closer and not cut up the bottom of the bracket which was the weakest part....

Here's what I did-

5/16 threaded rod...some various bolts and a couple Simpson BC60Z post caps left over from my deck build....

I was able to use the actuator ends on the threaded rod where as I could adjust it...re clocked the motor to tuck it in and figured out a simply way to wire it- just a Bosch relay and you're there.

Don't look TOO closely at the bracket- I have to clean up the edges and paint- and make one for the other side...AND I'll make a template...parts list...











 
#163 ·
I finished up my headlight electric conversion-It works really well....I'm working on an idea for the wiper door....



I know...I know...It doesn't look like much -but I have spent several hours EACH night this past week getting the harness put together...Waiting on a couple more sensors but I have the power-ground-coils-injectors all ready to go...I double heat shrinked all my connections just because....Was able to use the BMW 'tray' to run all the wires to the injectors...

Richard


 
#164 ·
Harness and headlights look great. I think I have seen a smaller version of that harness living under a rock in the backyard. :D

How did you adjust the throw of the headlight motor. It appears to move 180* back and forth. Did you have to make new arms or shorten them or did it just turn out they were the correct length for the 3.5" or so of travel the headlight linkage needs to work?
 
#165 ·
The Probe arm had about ÂĽ" more throw- so I adjusted drilling out the arm by moving it 1/8" in.

I took apart an actuator I had laying around here- made the new actuator rod out of threaded rod and used the old one as my starting point.

I centered the motor up w/ the center of the old actuator- again as a starting point- adjusted it down maybe ½ so I wouldn't have to cut up the headlight housing to clearance the rod.

I also hacked up the Probe bracket to use as my template...
More pics of the making...

Richard









 
#167 ·
The Probe arm had about ÂĽ" more throw- so I adjusted drilling out the arm by moving it 1/8" in.

I took apart an actuator I had laying around here- made the new actuator rod out of threaded rod and used the old one as my starting point.

I centered the motor up w/ the center of the old actuator- again as a starting point- adjusted it down maybe ½ so I wouldn't have to cut up the headlight housing to clearance the rod.

I also hacked up the Probe bracket to use as my template...
More pics of the making...

Richard










Richard I know you are busy but if you get the time I would really like to see a more detailed write up of the headlight convert! I really like it and want to do the same thing but I am afraid I am not as talanted as you and may need a bit of help.....:laughing:
 
#166 ·
Absolutely AWESOME work Richard!!! :partyon:

You obviously don't have a problem with 'idle hands' around your place... :laughing:
 
#168 ·
Richard, your work is fantastic as ussual, everything is looking great.

Question on the probe actuators, can the travel be stopped half way, and then restarted either to continue travel up or instead, to close them? I'm not sure what the actuator motor needs for its operation, if it requires power to stay in the up potion and then closed when power is lost.

I have a head light mod that I am looking to take on, but believe I need a two stage actuator to make it happen. I'm wanting the head light to pop up half way, or about 2 inches when the parking lights are on, and have halo head lights that the halo ring would be on while in this position, then to full position when the head lights are on. Courous if the probe actuators can be used in a two stage setup.

Thanks for any info about the operation of the probe actuators that you can pass along.

Riggs
 
#169 ·
As always your work is first rate. I especially like the harness...Looks like a factory piece.
By the way...For those of us that don't know your background. What is the story of the 'Vette in your avatar? It is a great pic!
Again...GREAT WORK!!!!:cheers:
 
#171 ·
Thanks guys!!!

Riggs-

The Probe motor is internally switched- 180° of travel each time you hit the trigger wire w/ 12volts. Really nice and simple...

Even if you were to pulse the main power and trigger - you would not get the same results each time- different amount of travel....

The vette in the avatar? A buddy of mine does photography for NHRA- and that's a pic from at least 15 years ago- He took it but I don't know where it was from.

Back to figuring out my throttle linkage...

Richard




 
#173 ·
I went back and forth on my design....A LOT tougher than I thought it was going to be....finally- this one came together- just a few designs before it that were fails...

I got some arms from Speedway...everything else was from the junkyard (M-B diesels) and the hardware store. I just used some 5/16 rod and went from there...even cut up a couple door hinges ( Brushed nickel of course...) to hold the rod/linkage!!

The problem was the intakes are on an angle...fuel injectors, fuel rails and wiring are in the way...and had to get the throttle to fully open w/o hitting the valve covers...

Here's it is all wired up...all the plugs a stock OEM BMW...even put a BMW plug on the GM MAP sensor...still waiting on one more sensor...

electrical tape is just there temporally... will finish polishing the throttle pieces and cut the bolts flush...but it's gonna work!!!








I just got my Vintage Air stuff...so that's next...

 
#174 ·
Soooo the photos show the throttle linkage in the closed position? The linkage arm then moves toward the throttle body to open the throttle. Right?

If I am looking at this correctly it means you needed two rods that twist in opposite directions synchronized to operate at exactly the same time. Really...... "A LOT tougher than I thought it was going to be" :WTF I've done some engineering in a previous life but holy crap....

As usual a very professional looking job, no idea how you get your mind into even thinking about how one would do that with a linkage. I can think of several ways a captive cable setup might have worked.

Amazing skills, I need to follow you around for a week or two. :D
 
#175 ·
Really..thanks....Yes- they are resting in the closed position...I had looked at some simple cables...even set up using a couple of spur gears used in a dry sump pump I had sitting around... then ended up w/ this idea....

You are welcome to follow me around...but I do have AADD- Adult Attention Deficit Disorder..so when some thinking is not working right -I head over to the glassbeader...or paint a few things ...or make a list of what's needed next...sleep...then come back to it and rethink it out...


I am in the thought process of insulating the interior- not from sound- but heat...I still remember driving to the Myrtle Beach in the early eighties ..and my feet actually getting burned from the heat of the big block headers...

I'll start another post...

Richard
 
#179 · (Edited)
Still moving along...sometimes I just can realize how much time goes by while I'm messing/adjusting/fabrication small stuff....

Here's one small step for my vette- but a giant leap in my build...

I have the Throttle linkage working COMPLETELY- full throw from the pedal.... had a bracket that I had pulled from an old Audi last time I was at the junkyard...cut it down- welded some 3/8 aluminum plate and mounted it to the factory holes for the wiper linkage...made a sort of double decker bellcrank then connected a rod end w/ a bolt directly to the pedal...












Back at it-removing what's left in the interior to coat it w/ Lizardskin...

Richard
 
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