That's very clever. A single actuator on a shaft with joints. Even and smooth, and picking different size arms on the shaft and using a shorter throw could greatly increase the speed.
But (5) plus brackets...(2) u-joints...(3) arms....couple feet of linkage rod...$100+ linear actuator... (2)micro switches to limit throw...
I like to keep it simple- I know...I know -a V12 Dry sumped w/ ITBs...instead of dropping a big block back in- in a couple weekends instead of a couple YEARS...
I got this idea from the "other" website- cleaned and refined it up a bit.
I think its a little bit more afFORDable...
(2) 93-97Ford Probe Headlight Motors- $15-35 each
(2)Simpson BC60Z galvanized post cap(Home Depot/Lowes)$12/each
(2)Rod end bearing-Hardware store $8 each
(1)12" threaded rod 5/16 18 $3
(1) Bosch type relay DPST $5
Tools needed- jig saw-unibit-file- couple drill bits-scrap wood-paint(not really needed since it's galvanized)-some wire and terminals...
EASILY done for under a C note- and a few hours worth of work.
But (5) plus brackets...(2) u-joints...(3) arms....couple feet of linkage rod...$100+ linear actuator... (2)micro switches to limit throw...
I like to keep it simple- I know...I know -a V12 Dry sumped w/ ITBs...instead of dropping a big block back in- in a couple weekends instead of a couple YEARS...
I got this idea from the "other" website- cleaned and refined it up a bit.
I think its a little bit more afFORDable...
(2) 93-97Ford Probe Headlight Motors- $15-35 each
(2)Simpson BC60Z galvanized post cap(Home Depot/Lowes)$12/each
(2)Rod end bearing-Hardware store $8 each
(1)12" threaded rod 5/16 18 $3
(1) Bosch type relay DPST $5
Tools needed- jig saw-unibit-file- couple drill bits-scrap wood-paint(not really needed since it's galvanized)-some wire and terminals...
EASILY done for under a C note- and a few hours worth of work.
Click on the pic- it's a video...Working on getting both of them in the car tonight...
Bill-
Yes, I'm familiar w/ the killer lights....BUT with the Probe Motors- NO module is required AND can use the stock headlight switch-all that's needed is a Bosch relay ( Tyco ).
These motors are so simple and bullet proof- and have the right throw. Put 12v on one trigger- it opens- 12v on the other it closes. Nothing to limit- it'd all done internal in the motor- plus it has a manual turn knob just in case...
I can't take credit for the idea- I just simplified it as far as wiring/bracket/arm.
Yes, that is my setup. It has been modified a bit since this photo. The U joints were increased from 1/2" to 5/8" diameter, the actuator throw increased from 2" to 3" and arms extended to compensate for the additional throw.
The longer throw and arms added more leverage into the linkage taking stress off the motor.
I've been working on a deal to offer these commercially as bolt in kits (no mods required) for a while now. Complete with brackets, linkage, motor, wiring, relay, hardware and install instructions. It's to early to say exactly when they will be available but you can expect them to be offered through one of this sites active sponsors.
We are getting closer to the first release, should be this year sometime.
Guys, I designed and fabricated a single rod with single linear actuator for Full Tilt's headlights about 6 years ago. IF photobucket is not screwing up again, here is a link to my build. You will find several detailed pice of how this worked using the original brackets on the 77 buckets:
Hey Richard, thanks for the conversion idea. So far I like this method the best and have bought 2 motors off e-bay. I wanted new motors and found 2 NOS motors for a total of $170. I know I could of saved money using old ones I just wanted new motors. One thing I am going to try is making a link arm with right and left hand threads so a fine tune adjustment can be made. Its amazing the throw on the motors arm is the wright length. Electrically there is endless possibilities for controlling the motors and thats one thing I really liked about the setup. Again Richard thanks for the thread. :cheers: Mark
Thanks Mark...but again I can't take credit for the idea....just took what others have done and fine tuned it....
Here's the headlights mounted and operational...pardon the camera work- The wires were only so long..holding the camera and touching the wires is sorta of like rubbing your belly and patting you head...
Thanks Mark...but again I can't take credit for the idea....just took what others have done and fine tuned it....
Here's the headlights mounted and operational...pardon the camera work- The wires were only so long..holding the camera and touching the wires is sorta of like rubbing your belly and patting you head...
I got myself a set of the motors and am going to do this when I modify my bezels for smaller lights. That's why I was asking about maybe making a different arm to change the throw distance.
Thanks very much for posting this info. Currently waiting for my motors to arrive from ebay. Cant wait to try this on my 77. Just not to sure where to find the end links coming off the threaded rod end at the motor.
The vacuum actuator measures almost 4" tall from the 4 bolt mount to the back of the flat. As long as the assembly is less than that there should be no clearance problems.
As I recall the stock setup cleared by a half inch or so. One might be able to encroach into this clearance space a little bit.
I wouldn't make the tolerances too close. I mean there could be some flexing of the mount during operation.
Ok found a pair of motors and the came today. Quick question, I see there's black, red, white and yellow wires at the 4 pin connector. Would like to test them but not sure where to apply the 12v and the ground to do so. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Still haven't had the chance to fit the hood...maybe this weekend...but I'm working feverishly to get the motor fired first...
John-
wires as they come from the motor and at the connector- after the connector they change colors and depend if it's a left or right motor...
White w/ red stripe +12 constant
Black = ground
Yellow = trigger +12
Red = trigger +12
Hook up the white/red and the ground- then put 12+ to either of the trigger wires- if nothing happens- then try other one...Should turn 180 degrees...then put the wire on the other and it'll 180 ....so on and so on...
Great, Thanks for the help ! Will try it out tomorrow. Opened the box and couldnt believe how small they actually are. Looked at a few junkyards today with wire cutters in hand for some female connectors for them. Not sure if they are a standard parts store part or not. Thanks again Richard.
It works on the bench, but not on the car. Checked power and grounds, both good, 12 v on the multimeter. Anyone want to help out and give me a direction to look? I have them running from the alternator, one of the motors works great! The other one works great on the bench, lol. Help!
Re-seated the fuse in the power side and all is well now. Yep, I feel dumb...
I used the post plates that Richard talked about on page 1 of this thread. I used the motors themselves to lay out the orientation of the motors and drill the holes. Then I removed all unnecessary material so the hood would close without contacting mounts or motors. The mounts do flex a bit, but nothing that will cause any issues. Overall, I'm really happy with how it all came out. This is way less expensive than the commercially available kits. And as you can see, it works really well.
I owe more than a few people a thank you, not least among them Richard, who was always there to answer questions as they came up. Richard, you aren't far from me at all, maybe one day I can come up and see that V12 Thanks for embedding the video for me
Wow, those come up very fast and smooth. Can't wait to get started on mine.
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