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Old 11-08-2012, 06:32 PM   #331
riggs 74
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Funny how when were sick, we seam to spend money instead of working on the car. It's a real sickness.

Looking forward to seeing some progress

Riggs
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:22 AM   #332
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Riggs,

I know what you mean, but sickness isn't quite accurate. It seems to me it's more of an addiction or a dependency. I mean just listening to these hot rod LS' engines idle is the fix I need to keep going and inspiration to spend money.

They are the best sounding auto engines I have ever heard. I just can't get over the way they sound. It's like a drug......

Now that I am all psyc'ed up time to get out to the garage and get going. Posts on progress later today.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:07 PM   #333
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Well today was a nuts day. As seen below I did get one fender mounted although I didn't get the splash shield finished.

I tried something new in an attempt to get the seam sealer on there easier than with a putty knife. I got the idea to fill a cake decorating bag with seam sealer and squeezing the sealer out onto the bonding strips.

Once you mix the hardener into the sealer you only have so much time. I am trying to hurry and getting the sealer into the bag is a pain, about half way in it dribbled and closed at the top. I got the sealer all over my hand getting the rest into the bag.

It actually worked pretty well for the actual application, squeezing the bag as you go along laid about a 1/2" bead of sealer along the edges. Ran a quick bead around the fender and pushed the fender into place.

Getting it screwed down was a joy with one hand covered in sealer. It was hard to hold the screwdriver at first, but as the sealer started to dry it became pretty sticky.

Finally got the fender on there, although I will do the other side the old fashioned way.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:31 PM   #334
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SWEET!!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #335
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If you attempt the pastry bag technique again try a gallon size ziploc bag. Just cut off the corner to to the size bead you want. It works great for applying grout to ceramic tile.
Been following this thread for a while now....Keep up the good work!
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #336
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Sly, thanks for the tip. I may get a chance to try that out while bonding the hood support to the hood. Still toying around with how I want to do the hood.

I put the drivers side fender on there today using the old putty knife. It worked pretty well, lots of slop and glop but it's on there. The 2" flairs are on the car and they look right at home, just the look I was after.

I also worked around the rear exhaust port of the passenger side adding the under fender surround. Then went on to finish the splash shield.

Tomorrow I will add the exhaust port and finish the splash shield on the drivers side.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:06 PM   #337
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Alright 70T, your making me jealous with these body mods.
The car is coming along nicely.

Riggs.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:51 PM   #338
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Today I finished the drivers side water shield. I also worked on adding the drivers side exhaust port bezel. Got that fitted and installed.

After that I spent the rest of the day doing body work. Still need to do quite a bit of that on the drivers side, the passenger side is very close.

Anybody got a couple of door shims they want to give up? I believe the passenger door top hinge could use another 1/16" or so.

Thanks!
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:21 PM   #339
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Today I worked on getting the new fenders aligned with the doors. After working all day adding a shim here and there, they are real close. Once I got them all lined up I did a little filling to match up the lines.

A testament to the fit of Custom Images fenders. This was the total amount of filler needed on the fit of the doors. The other side (not pictured) used a little more but not much.

I hope to finish the back half of the body tomorrow so I can start on the hood.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:52 PM   #340
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Body work, body work body work.......... Sand, sand, sand and sand some more. But at the end of the day the bodywork on the rear body and doors is completed. Gaps are done as well as fitting the new fenders.

I started working on the hood, adding glass to low spots and removing places that are high. Still have a couple of days work fitting and testing.

Next weekend I will be working on the hood..........
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:57 PM   #341
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As you know, Josh made the molds for your fenders from the custom work they did on my car; so we have exactly the same fenders. When he created mine, the car was on an original C3 chassis, and the rear wheel opening was custom fit around the wheel position. Since then, I picked up a Street Shop chassis w/ C4 suspension just like the one your car is sitting on. Now, my rear wheels are sitting way back in the opening, and it appears the wheel base is at least 1" longer. There's a question coming...

Have you put the wheels on and set the car on the ground to see if everything is lined up? If not, you might want to check it out. I'm still trying to figure out how the SS chassis and original chassis could be so far off??? I've never heard of another case of this problem with a SS chassis.

Last edited by ranger9812; 11-19-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:25 AM   #342
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Ranger, Geeeeezusssssssssssss!! You're scaring me.......

Wheels and tires are on order but not here yet. I have not tried a wheel in the opening. But you can bet your a$$ that will be one of the first things I do when I get them.

I did do a plumb bob check before I attached the fenders and it appeared they were pretty close to center. The suspension was fully unloaded at the time so I'm thinking it could vary a little bit but an inch seems like allot.

Does your differential have the billet bat wing or is it a stock one cut down? Stock dog bones or adjustable? Wondering if SS did the differential work or the guy you got it from?

Have you discussed with Tray at SS? He has been very helpful to me, even though I got my frame second hand. Says allot about their customer service.

Let me know what you find out, I will post results when I get the wheels.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:02 AM   #343
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Mine is the standard C4 DANA 36 differential set-up; nothing unusual there that I can tell. The rear wheel position is really set by the trailing arms. I know Trey's frames are all jig built; so it's hard to believe that things could be that far off. There are a couple of things I still want Josh to look at, like seeing how much farther he can bring the body back on the frame and how much the wheel positions change at ride height versus fully extended. Like you said, I doubt it's going to change by an inch. If we can get some of the error out of it that way, then my last-ditch idea to get the rest is to try the adjustable-length C4 trailing arms from Van Steel or VB&P. More to follow...

Front is fairly centered:


Here's the rear:


For reference, here's with the old chassis that the flare work was done on:

Last edited by ranger9812; 11-19-2012 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:39 AM   #344
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Wow!

Yea, something ain't right........ I'd give Tray a call and see what he thinks.

Maybe there are different length dog bones or something like that? dunno, but will be watching mine closely.

Thanks again for the post.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:42 PM   #345
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Got off early yesterday and put a second layer of fiberglass on the hood. Went out today and ground that smooth and added another layer to the problem areas.

Of course attaching the hood support with screws each time to check the fit and mark spots that still need adjustments. Little by little it is forming to shape. All in all coming along pretty good but slower than I would like.

Going to look good when completed.
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