I got a call from a member that had his work truck stop running, naturally not where it was easily accessed,
but at least it was at his home , not on the side of the interstate or 20 miles up some dirt road
(BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT SEVERAL DOZEN TIMES ALSO!)
any way, I grab a few basic tools and a multi meter, hoping the repair will be something like a blown fuse.
a few tests confirmed the fuel pump in the tank was defective, at this point IM already wishing I had the truck in question back at my shop rather than 20 plus miles away where I don,t have instant access to my tools I spent 40 plus years collecting. once you own the correct tools, having them sitting in your tool box but not having access to that tool box gets a bit frustrating.
NOW PLEASE UNDERSTAND,I USUALLY FEEL A GOOD DEAL OF SATISFACTION IN THE PROCESS OF ISOLATING AND FIXING AUTOMOTIVE PROBLEMS, but once you acquire the tools and knowledge to do a project, working without those tools seems rather frustrating.
HERES A RATHER USEFUL TROUBLE SHOOTING FLOW CHART
http://www.rockauto.com/info/Perform...iagnostics.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf
a quick look on the internet showed the complete fuel pump assembly is available.
prices ran from $60-$300 depending on if you wanted the whole assembly , a brand name O.E.M. part or just a generic fuel pump.
the owner chose a generic pump, that cost about $100 but it was NOT an exact duplicate so some minor fabrication skill was required to get it to fit and function, but the generic part purchased from ADVANCE AUTO, (mainly because they had a part that would work , but one thar required a few fabrication skills to get it to function and fit, vs waiting several days for a slightly less expensive mail order part, ) was eventually installed and did function.
so the basic repair process , was simply a case of replacing the defective fuel pump which is only difficult because access too the pump requires dropping the fuel tank, keep in mind a fuel tank even with only a few gallons of fuel is rather heavy for a single person to easily support and if tipped the fuel tends to run to the lower end of the tank so supporting the fuel tank during removal, as you lower it for access , it is smart if you use a rolling transmission jack
I use a mechanics creeper frequently and the 12 ton jack stands allow about 22"-to -26" of clearance while still providing stable support, something you can,t do with 3-6 ton rated stands as their base size is too narrow
jobs like this, that most of us seem to occasionally get involved in, make you really appreciate having the tools and a well lighted dry and level location to work and access to the tools required to make the job much easier
which when your working without the correct tools,
like good lighting
and a decent set of 12 ton jack stands
and a couple floor jacks
or tools like a transmission jack
and a few other hand tools or
if your really lucky air ratchets,
is a P.I.T.A. compared to what it could be at my shop.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-...nds-34924.html
These super heavy duty jack stands will hold most cars and trucks safely over 2 feet off the ground. Perfect for repair work or storage.
yes Ive spent decades doing car/truck repairs on drive ways, but one thing Ive learned, over time is that having decent tools and a level concrete floor, a couple good 3 ton rated, floor jacks and decent 12 ton rated jack stands that will allow you to have 22"-26" of space under a car or truck for easy mechanics creeper clearance, and a mechanics creeper thats easily rolled in any direction, can make the same job seem far less difficult , than the same job would be if it was done without those basic tools, lying on an asphalt drive way, which can make the process, seem to be a real extended and far more difficult experience.
thats one reason I saved for decades to build my own shop with air tools and a lift ETC.
how about you gentlemen, ever feel like your working at a distinct dis-advantage when your helping a friend that has only minimal tool access?
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