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Old 10-24-2012, 02:02 PM   #16
XQIZT
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What cross-member do you have to remove? Why not just buy a used auto driveshaft and C-beam? They are relatively cheap. Or did those only change for the ZF6? Good luck on the swap.
Psssttt......this is for the 77.....not the 85.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:40 PM   #17
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What the...how'd I end up in the C3 section. Ok, makes much more sense. Not to mention I couldn't see you swapping to an auto.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:39 PM   #18
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700R4 into a C3

I just had mine done on my '79. (Transmission Physicians) They used a crossmember from Bowtie O/D, sent the drive shaft out for shortening/rebalancing, installed a kit in the console with a new shift pattern and a window reflecting the O/D symbol. I think they had to rework the exhaust a little and modify the trans lines. I also had a deep aluminum pan added for extra cooling. The trans core was upgraded with some "vette only" internals, beefed clutches etc. and a shift kit. Also the cable to the carb. The guys swapped speedo gears until they got it within 1.5 mph of the dash speedo. GPS.(originally was off 3mph) Very happy with the job. Knocked rpms @ 70mph to 2300 from 3500. Less wear and tear on the drivetrain and better mpg. It's Wintery here so she's put away now but A short test route gave 23mpg! This job cost me about half of what the "kits" are advertised for. These guys have done other muscle cars but I was the first C3. Check around. Surprised at how quiet it is without the rpm's.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:15 PM   #19
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Nice to read, my 383 with my tci th350 trans and 3.55's out back is horrible on gas at 60mph and 3000rpms. It'd be great to drop those rpms, actually keep up with hwy traffic and get better gas mileage.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:17 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by XrayOne View Post
I also had a deep aluminum pan added for extra cooling. The trans core was upgraded with some "vette only" internals, beefed clutches etc. and a shift kit.
Just to clearify this statement a little. Deep tranny pans are not really extra cooling. The added fluid volume takes longer to change tempeture. Like in a power brake launch or running at max TQ of the motor creating heat from the stall slip.

Yes, volume is a good thing, but a big independant tranny radiator is better.

When ever I hear "vette only" internals I cringe because the vette only used 700's in the early sub 400 hp motor years and they were junky transmissions. They required alot of aftermarket HD parts to survive in anything, but the wimpiest of motors
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:44 AM   #21
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Some of my suggestions take them or not.

If you have any rear lower then 3.55 any over drive will be a problem because a carb can not adjust fuel flow accurately enough at lower speeds and your motor will chug and load up.

If you have a high RPM motor with a cam profile that takes you to 7200 rpm the pumps on these over drives become oil starved and wont last long.

All the parts are easily obtained ( shifterworks.com ) sells all linkages , detent and correct window reading sticker. (99.00)

Bto cross member is a nice ad over modifying oem cross member. (195.00)

Drive shaft cut balance and new U-joints 125.00 and look for a big rig parts dealer they usually deal with drive shafts every minute of every day.

Lock up several kits for this if your 1980 to 1982 your car has a lock up system and is located left of master cylinder with a vac line and elec wires coming out of it.

Lot of opinions on which one to use. The 700R4 like the 400 as mentioned above uses more power BUT IS A stronger unit with a lower first gear which should compensate for its power use.

A 2004r is eaier to install uses less power and works perfectly but if you have 400hp and above my preference will always be the 700R4 ( and again I would not use these transmissions in a high rpm set up no matter what someone tells me)
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:10 PM   #22
frank_nesta
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with him.
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