Wiper door actuator rebuild...is it possible?

[slofut]

Originally Posted by garys 68

You can check to see if the front rod seal is bad by applying vacuum to one side or the other. If it only leaks on the rod side, pretty good chance it's only that seal. Otherwise, not rebuildable.
I had a 68 coffee can that leaked when I got it. Bought a replacement, it leaked a year later. Converted to pie pan style. The linkage was a mass of rust in a year and it leaked.
Switched to electric 5 years ago, when I did my LS swap, no problems since then.

Hey Gary,
I ordered one of these 2" stroke mini actuators from Firgelli but it looks to be much longer than the one you have. It's part# FA-RMS-15-12-2. Is this the same actuator you have in the pic? The square body is 8 1/4" long?
Bill

[garys 68]

I bought the older version with a square body. They still list it in the longer stroke and the specs are still available for the 2" stroke (link below). It does look like the old one is 8.5" closed vs the new 9.25".
In the photo, part of the body is in the wiper well. I removed the "scissor" mechanism and mounted the actuator strait to the arm on the shaft in there. So there is about half the actuator inside.
On the plus side, it looks like the rounded new version wont require as much clearancing of the firewall or aluminum bracket inside the well.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=129

[slofut]

Originally Posted by garys 68

I bought the older version with a square body. They still list it in the longer stroke and the specs are still available for the 2" stroke (link below). It does look like the old one is 8.5" closed vs the new 9.25".
In the photo, part of the body is in the wiper well. I removed the "scissor" mechanism and mounted the actuator strait to the arm on the shaft in there. So there is about half the actuator inside.
On the plus side, it looks like the rounded new version wont require as much clearancing of the firewall or aluminum bracket inside the well.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=129

Thanks Gary,
3/4" isn't much difference, I think I was missing that part of yours was into the wiper well. Should be fine
Bill

[clemsontiger]

Just a follow-up for anyone that may search this in the future...I was able to fix the actuator with the rear rod seal. Just fyi, if the actuator will work using either the front vacuum port or the rear vacuum port, but not the other, the bladder is good and either the plug in the front is bad or the rod seal in the rear is bad. If the door will go up, but not down...it's the plug. If the door will go down, but not up...it's the rod seal. Hope this helps someone else!