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Old 12-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Yea because it definitely doesn't come off. One more thing to note once you put that intake back on. I put this in my instructions and stressed it real good but I'll say it again. MAKE SURE that you double-check that tiny hose when you connect it to the back of the plenum. Failure to do so will only be known AFTER you finish the car and start it up.

You will be greeted with a very distinctive and noticeable sound if that hose is not connected. It will go like this:

Hsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss.......
It DOES come off, it is not molded with the body, it is bonded in, You would have to know what was used to know how to break the adhesive.

It still will come off, just not in 1 piece
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:13 PM   #47
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It DOES come off, it is not molded with the body, it is bonded in, You would have to know what was used to know how to break the adhesive.

It still will come off, just not in 1 piece

Yes, I have decided to leave it alone and just clean it as best I can....
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:14 PM   #48
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Where did you read about an upgrade?
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:26 PM   #49
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I did a google search and found a couple references to LS1 MAP sensor upgrade to a 3bar sensor but was not sure if it was for any LS1 or if it was even worth the bother. It looked as tho it was used alot for the LS6 intake conversion.
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:32 PM   #50
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Remember, the LS1 is in a couple of different cars so what may be best for one model car may NOT be best for other models. Also, as a commercial that's running on TV right now clearly points out, you can't believe everything you read on the Internet. Here my upgrade "rules to go by" when it comes to changing something on my engine.

1. Can I prove that my car will have a positive gain from the upgrade? If I can't prove that, why bother? I obviously don't know enough about what I'm wanting to do to be doing it.

2. If the gain is positive, will it introduce more stress on any other part of the engine? If so, am I prepared to pay the cost to beef up that section and any other sections that may be affected by the upgrade, all the way through the entire drivetrain?

3. Do I drive my car in a manner that would benefit from the upgrade? I mean, who needs $3000 performance tires on a Corvette that get's driven once a month on a sunny day at 55 Mph?

If I can't answer all those questions with some solid documentation or numbers, I ain't wasting my time. A lot of guys don't know shit about upgrading an engine but the first thing you see them do is install a bigger cam and headers on these cars. They can't tell you exactly what the benefits AND disadvantages are because they really don't know themselves. If a lot of guys who blindly upgrade really knew what they were doing, they would be inventing technology, not trying to improve it. It's one thing to knock a guys invention and try to improve it but the real mastermind is the guy who invented it. I'm trusting THAT guy. That's not to say that his invention can't be improved, just that he had the knowledge to do the heavy lifting.

That's why I have done 1 upgrade to my engine. A K&N filter. I cannot tell you the exact numbers as far as horsepower gain but I do understand the importance of air flow into the engine. I also understand that my engine is not being stressed by this increase in air flow as the computer compensates for that increase. Lastly, my wallet thanks me every time I clean my filter because I do not have to buy a new one every time my filter gets dirty. That 3 wins in a row. That is the extent of my upgrading. GM has provided me a car with some serious balls and it happens to attract the hotties too. That's all I need.

The Junkman charm will do the rest.
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:36 PM   #51
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The only real reason to upgrade the MAP on a LS1/LS2/LS6 is if you are going forced induction.
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #52
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Thanks to both of you for your responses. I will stick with the original MAP sensor for all the reasons stated above.

I am not going to add any mods for the time being, but I do plan to in the future. This car is a toy for playing with and after it is back to factory running condition I will start the bolt ons.

Thanks again and I'll keep this thread updated with the progress.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:43 PM   #53
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This is the new sensors going in. The nock and the cam position sensor and the oil pressure sending unit. The cam position sensor is the long one if you are unsure.



This is the difference between the new intake gaskets (blue) and the old ones (orange). Notice that the old ones are really squished too much and at the end of their usefulness even though they are reusable.




Now to get them installed and finish cleaning the intake and put it back on.

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Old 12-26-2012, 02:55 PM   #54
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You're going to have to perform a idle learn procedure now that you've replaced the CMP sensor.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:07 PM   #55
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Quote:
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You're going to have to perform a idle learn procedure now that you've replaced the CMP sensor.
Will do.

I was just watching your video on polishing. Watched the engine cleaning video earlier. Who did your heat cover with your logo on it? That thing looks kewl!

Last edited by C5 Dude; 12-26-2012 at 03:16 PM. Reason: spelling of course....
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:15 PM   #56
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A guy I know in Canada painted it for me. Corrado R. Mallia.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:47 AM   #57
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More questions on spark plug boots....

Ok. So I have decided on the MSD 8.5mm Super Conductors because of bang for the buck. I got them for $65 bucks and from what I have read they are good to go.

My question is on the spark plug wire protective boots like below.



Do they work? Do they really extend the life of the wires and protect them. Are they worth the $30 to get them?

Also- What plugs do you guys recommend?

Thanks.

Last edited by C5 Dude; 12-28-2012 at 09:50 AM. Reason: question about plugs
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:15 AM   #58
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Now you're starting to WASTE money. You have done nothing to your engine to warrant changing the BRAND of spark plugs, wires or anything else. As a matter of fact, some supposed "upgrades" that guys have done to their completely stock engine have resulted in negative performance related issues. The plugs, wires and coils on your engine were designed to go at least 100,000 miles. Don't let threads that you see of guys changing stuff on their stock engine seduce you into making the same mistake. After all, you have no clue as to their knowledge on engine design and performance. Stock worked just fine up to now and stock will be good for another 100,000 miles.

GO WITH STOCK ON YOUR STOCK ENGINE.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:37 AM   #59
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The MSD wires are good wires. The reason they are better is basic electrical theory.

The less resistance current has the more current will be transmitted. The factory wires are about 600 ohms. The MSD wires are about 50 ohms. The more current that is transmitted to the spark plug, the hotter the spark is going to be. this allows a more complete and faster burn of the air/fuel mixture. A more complete burn will result in more hp, increased mpg, and decreased emissions. You may not see any gains with just the wires, but the sum of the parts is greater than the individual part.

As for the GM engineers knowing best....All I gotta say is fuel level sending units, column lock, rocking chairs, piston rings, ect.... all of which are known screw-ups by GM engineers just on the C5....

As far as the wire covers go, they are a GOOD idea. Head degrades spark plug wires and boots. Heat also increases wire resistance. The more heat you can keep off your plug wires, the longer they will last and the better they will perform. Heat is typically the #1 killer of spark plug wires.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:56 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreABN View Post
The MSD wires are good wires. The reason they are better is basic electrical theory.

The less resistance current has the more current will be transmitted. The factory wires are about 600 ohms. The MSD wires are about 50 ohms. The more current that is transmitted to the spark plug, the hotter the spark is going to be. this allows a more complete and faster burn of the air/fuel mixture. A more complete burn will result in more hp, increased mpg, and decreased emissions. You may not see any gains with just the wires, but the sum of the parts is greater than the individual part.
And to your theory, I'll say this. Z rated tires are the best performance tires that you can buy for your passenger car. Everything about a Z rated tire is better. I'll put a set of them on my Yugo and see how much better the car performs. Better does not always equal BETTER.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreABN View Post
As for the GM engineers knowing best....All I gotta say is fuel level sending units, column lock, rocking chairs, piston rings, ect.... all of which are known screw-ups by GM engineers just on the C5....
Not knowing how to fix an issue is one thing. Attempting to ignore the problem or doing the least bit necessary to address the problem is typical large company tactics. I give you Toyota and their acceleration issue. Blame it on the floor mats. If you can design a car from the GROUND UP and have not one single issue with it, I would love to see that car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreABN View Post
As far as the wire covers go, they are a GOOD idea. Head degrades spark plug wires and boots. Heat also increases wire resistance. The more heat you can keep off your plug wires, the longer they will last and the better they will perform. Heat is typically the #1 killer of spark plug wires.
Wires that have been subjected to a lot of heat will be brittle and hard. When I changed mine at a 100,000+ miles, they felt as pliable as the new ones. A few of them ohmed out close to the new ones so I kept them for testing purposes. As far as I see it, those covers are a waste of money on a stock engine.
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