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Old 12-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #46
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Wilson hardness tester, take a look on You Tube. Basically it's a spring loaded press with a gauge and dimples the surface to be tested. That is a pretty crude explanation but when you see it you'll know.
The heat treater I use is an old school type of guy which we are losing today. He has the experience and knowledge to correctly treat them so I don't have to worry about them.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:35 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Hi All
Just some more info I added to this long running thread.

I have a few sets of axles out to my heat treater for testing now. ( Contrary to what I read about me last year, I do not harden or have hardened axles sitting there with a torch!) I have a long time pro harden and temper them.

Anyway I figured you might find this interesting

1979 virgin side axles, 24 Rc scale
1966 Virgin axles- after I fit them, 19Rc scale.
They will be correctly hardened and tempered and will be fine to use for another 100k miles I suspect.

The 66 axles were case hardened and since I had to fit them I had to grind them. If they were used as is in a non tuned posi they would have been fine. A correctly tuned posi required fitment.

The '79 axles were just plain soft from day one, as most of the 73-79's are.

If you are building a diff at home be sure to check them, pay a machine shop to check them on a Wilson hardness tester.
Isn't 24 Rc harder than 19 Rc?
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #48
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Isn't 24 Rc harder than 19 Rc?
Yes it is Larry, the 66 were 19 AFTER I ground them .
19, 24 or anything under 50 is not what you want in this application.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:27 AM   #49
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Sorry if it is in any of your previous posts, but have you done rc tests on different year axles? Or replacements available today? I had some replacement axles that were so soft they wore 0.050" in only a few years and less than 15K miles. I now have some used mid 60's axles that show absolutely zero wear, the machining marks are still on the ends.
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:42 PM   #50
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Sorry if it is in any of your previous posts, but have you done rc tests on different year axles? Or replacements available today? I had some replacement axles that were so soft they wore 0.050" in only a few years and less than 15K miles. I now have some used mid 60's axles that show absolutely zero wear, the machining marks are still on the ends.
I have checked a lot and would say the 63-72 usually are pretty good. Many of them I had in still had good yokes with over 100k miles on them. On the other hand the 73-79 originals are pretty soft.

The 66's I just did were soft only after I ground them to fit them. They are hardened again and back in the diff.

The after market yokes, new or rebuilt, some are good and other pretty bad. I use Toms axles for HP use, Lone Star rebuilts for general street use but I don't use the "new" 17 spline yokes, from anyone. The very few "new" yokes I had in were soft and this goes back 5-7 years.

Overall the quality of many parts the past few years has gone down. The master kits commonly sold have cheap seals, caged axle bearings, std gr 8 bolts, poor shim selection and some use imported bearings. I put together my own kits now, using only USA Timkens & Torrington axle bearings. Gears are also mostly imported now, I believe US Gear made for Tom's are the only USA made gears left for the vette and the best in my opinion. Richmond closed the doors last year when they were bought out, not sure what will be in the boxes now since the name was bought by MidWest Truck which ownes Motive Gear. I just used one of the last of the NOS USA Richmond 355 sets I had.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #51
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Once in a while I get in an odd ball deal to work on. This time is a seized spring bolt in a iron diff cover. This sucker broke in the cover and was pretty tight in there. I soaked it with Kroil, tried to tap it out but No GO! Propane sure didn't help.



So I center punched and center drilled it. Then broke out the Snap-On bolt extractor kit. This is a pretty good tool set, much better then the typical spiral E-Z outs.



Well that sucker broke my 5/16 extractor after I soaked and heated it again.






So then I had to get the extractor out of the broken bolt! That was a trick in itself but I got it out. Then I used a LH drill to clean it up some but it still wasn't moving. So I drilled it for the largest tool in the kit, a 3/8". Before installing it I cherried the bolt hole and cast iron, the tapped in the tool and it broke loose.














Then chased the hole once it cooled down, no cracks seen and the hole threads in good.



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Old 01-01-2013, 05:18 PM   #52
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How did you get the drill bit centered so well. My problem,when I go that large,with little room for error,is I tend to drift off center and wind up damaging the threads....
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:58 PM   #53
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with this one I used a burr to dress the end of the bolt flat, then center punched near center, not perfect but very close, then used a center drill to start the hole and just step up from there.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:22 AM   #54
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FYI
Some things just don't change. I must answer several calls and emails a week on building diffs and how mine are different. Most understand once we speak but others are concerned about cash -as we all are- and go with a cheaper build. That's ok with me but this one really wasn't less only the quality was.

Check this diff out, I will not mention the builder or owner. The point of this is just to inform you guys looking for a bargain deal & expecting a quality build it just doesn't happen. You are not going to get custom work for $200-$300 labor.

This diff never had oil put it in or was ever installed since purchased, this is how it was shipped to the owner. A guy brought it in to me to check out. This is what I saw as soon as I pulled the cover off. Took all of 5 minutes to know this was junk. There is no way a rebuilder could not see that crack in the posi, sorry I just can't buy it. By the time the posi cracked in 1/2 the owner would have thought he did something wrong.

Just be aware of what is going on out there fella's. I doubt the rebuilder will mention anything here, crooks are a little smarter then that.

Look close and you will there is no detail work at all, you could shave off the edges, caps were not fit and the old bolts reused. Preload was too tight and caused binding by hand.






Last edited by gtr1999; 02-17-2013 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:47 PM   #55
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Wow! That guy who brought it into you to give it the once over must really feel lucky he did.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:41 PM   #56
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I understand that corners are cut in most everything offered to the consumer in this day and age but this is ridiculous!
Putting a product out on the market at a reduced price is one thing and at that point I think we all know that you get what you pay for.
That being said this borders on the verge of being criminal!
Who is to say that a catastrophic failure was not in this buyers future that could possibly lead to serious injury.
This is just WRONG on many levels and I wish there was a way to hold the builder responsible for putting out this piece of junk!!!
I for one would like to know who is responsible for this shoddy work but I am also aware of the ramifications of broadcasting this particular builders name or company for all to see without allowing them a chance to defend themselves. What that defense might be...I have NO idea!!!
SHAME!!!!
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:06 AM   #57
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Hi Gary, One question. Do you use the Permatex #2 on the halfshaft yoke splines? I'am replacing my seals and want to make sure it doesn't leak. Mark
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:48 AM   #58
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Hi Gary, One question. Do you use the Permatex #2 on the halfshaft yoke splines? I'am replacing my seals and want to make sure it doesn't leak. Mark
No Need for that, the side yokes in the diff are sealed by the side seals, the T/A ( outer axles) are sealed by the inner spindle flange and inner seal, plus those use grease, no gear oil.

I will be looking at newer alternatives to #2 as well.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:11 AM   #59
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Just out of curiosity,Gary.... What's involved in testing for hardness? How is it done?
These work out real nice for this type of test. I posted about them a couple of weeks ago in a separate thread.
I just checked a couple of axles I had hardened and tempered 4 years ago and they were right in line with the Wilson Hardness tester at the time of install, 57Rc. $100 vs $3000 for a hardness tester is a deal.

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:36 AM   #60
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Hi Gary, One question. Do you use the Permatex #2 on the halfshaft yoke splines? I'am replacing my seals and want to make sure it doesn't leak. Mark
As I remember in one of Gary's earlier posts a sealant is only needed on the pinion splines. I'm sure our resident expert will correct me if I'm wrong.

And,by the way,....Gary offered to "Share" his hardness testing tools with us in his original thread...Just kiddin' ya' Gary!!!
Take Care,ALL!
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