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Old 01-08-2013, 07:58 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Fly03Z06 View Post
Have your knuckles healed to tackle the clutch/flywheel yourself?
I didn't scuff them up to bad.

I am ready to do the clutch except for actually having the parts in hand. I am still gathering the cash to pay for it all and then I'll get started. I'm going to try to make Junkman proud and do a nice write up on it.

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:02 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Kinda nice to turn that key and hear it fire the first time with NO issues, huh! That self gratifying feeling will make you tackle the next repair with no hesitation.
That was my first thought. It's really nice when a plan works.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:49 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by C5 Dude View Post
I didn't scuff them up to bad.

................ I'm going to try to make Junkman proud and do a nice write up on it.

Keep in mind, the time it takes to do a clutch install will certainly also include at least two meals. Be sure and get AJ's Dagwood Pizza recipe or perhaps include your own Texas grilling tips.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:03 AM   #79
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That was my first thought. It's really nice when a plan works.

Yep! It was awesome! I didn't have any lights until yesterday and it is a PO420 H C. So I am going to pick up an O2 sensor and swap it out this weekend. I also had some HVAC codes but I wont mess with them until I get the O2 sensor replaced.

One thing that has cropped up that is really chapping my hide is a slight rattle in the dash that sounds like plastic rubbing together. SO at some point I will be pulling all the console to find that and squelch it.

I plan on getting the car Dyno tested after it is all together and no codes and get a base line reading for a 99 C5 with about 140,000 miles on it. I plan to get it tuned and dyno tested after each modification to show the real advantages of the bolt ons so we can see what really gives you the bang for the buck.

Should be a good read. I only plan to take it to no more than 550 HP so it may be a short read. Or with a high mileage engine like mine it may take more mods than say a new rebuilt engine or newer car. This should be helpful for the guys like me who are building thier car on a budget and in thier garage!

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:04 PM   #80
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I would research them, I know when I was there was a lot of talk about the truck coils putting out more current. If that is true, i do not know. I haven't looked into them in a while simply because of their cost.
I have a 06 Z and I bit on the MSD coil packs, ran great for a while then started a fouled plug kind of miss mostly at idle, after changing plugs and wires I went back to the stock coils. Guess what? Runs perfect, mileage went back up as well, go figuire.
By the way I have the MSD coils packs for sale if anyone is interested.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by HardcoreABN View Post
The MSD wires are good wires. The reason they are better is basic electrical theory.

The less resistance current has the more current will be transmitted. The factory wires are about 600 ohms. The MSD wires are about 50 ohms. The more current that is transmitted to the spark plug, the hotter the spark is going to be. this allows a more complete and faster burn of the air/fuel mixture. A more complete burn will result in more hp, increased mpg, and decreased emissions. You may not see any gains with just the wires, but the sum of the parts is greater than the individual part.

As for the GM engineers knowing best....All I gotta say is fuel level sending units, column lock, rocking chairs, piston rings, ect.... all of which are known screw-ups by GM engineers just on the C5....

As far as the wire covers go, they are a GOOD idea. Head degrades spark plug wires and boots. Heat also increases wire resistance. The more heat you can keep off your plug wires, the longer they will last and the better they will perform. Heat is typically the #1 killer of spark plug wires.
I agree, I took off the covers mainly because I like the look without them and I think the coils may run a little cooler.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRH-98 View Post
I have a 06 Z and I bit on the MSD coil packs, ran great for a while then started a fouled plug kind of miss mostly at idle, after changing plugs and wires I went back to the stock coils. Guess what? Runs perfect, mileage went back up as well, go figuire.
By the way I have the MSD coils packs for sale if anyone is interested.
Yeah...I decided against these after reading up a bit on them. I have determined that at the 450 - 500 HP I want to make and the fact that I will probablybe able to stay with the stock injectors for this range I would be able to stick with the stock coil packs as well. Thats good because they are running great.

Just that darn squeek in the dash now....
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by C5 Dude View Post
Yeah...I decided against these after reading up a bit on them. I have determined that at the 450 - 500 HP I want to make and the fact that I will probablybe able to stay with the stock injectors for this range I would be able to stick with the stock coil packs as well. Thats good because they are running great.

Just that darn squeek in the dash now....
Sqeeks can drive you insane, have you tried turning up the radio? Sorry couldn't resist.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:40 PM   #84
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Stock Pulls On Dyno

OK. Car is running great all tuned up and ready to dyno. Here are the pics and numbers from my 1999 C5 with 141,xxx miles on it. The tech who did the pulls said it did great for the age and miles.





I know its hard to read but the MAX = 326 HP 311 Ft-Lb

Not too shabby for an $8K car. Now to start the build up to reach the 450 HP mark.

Long tube headers first with high flow cats and exhaust. Then back to tune and dyno again.

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Old 01-20-2013, 05:28 PM   #85
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Talking Darn PO420 H C code again...

Ok....so today while out riding with the wife and the top off the check engine light pops on.......so I guess the new O2 sensors didn't fix it and it really is the cat.

So I am going to get the bypass plugs because inthe futer I will have long tubes and no cats anyway. But until then, anybody got any ideas what to maybe pour into the go juice tank to maybe clean them...

I have read about laquer thinner but am troubled about pouring that harsh of a chemicle into the tank.

Any good over the counter fixes, or just stare at it until the bypass plugs come in....

Kewl part......today I dropped that bad boy from 5500 RPM and traction control off with the wife! We both grinned so hard it hurt....I love this woman!

Last edited by C5 Dude; 01-20-2013 at 05:30 PM. Reason: forgot the kewl part
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:58 PM   #86
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Why are you guessing at which code is illuminating the MIL when all you have to do is look at the codes???
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #87
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Why are you guessing at which code is illuminating the MIL when all you have to do is look at the codes???

Hi Junkman .

I know its a PO420 H C from pulling the codes.

I reset it after installing new O2 sensors hoping it was a slow switching sensor but it came back. So after the tune up and new sensors I can almost bet its the cat.

I am going to pull the injectors and swap sides on them and see if it switches codes to the other side. If an injector is sticky it could throw this code as well if its dumping too much fuel on that side but I doubt thats the problem.

An old tech I new used to pull a plug wire to get alot of raw fuel into the cats to heat them up over normal conditions to burn them off but I don't recomend that as I have also seen them shatter and rattle like an sob after that too. I would rather live with the light until the new exhaust instead of listen to a rattle. BUt anyway, if an injector is sticking alot of the fuel gets burned in combustion (running rich) but the rest hits the cat and over carbons the cats...so thats the last thing I will try before I just live with the light until the first tune with the new exhaust.

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Old 01-20-2013, 06:28 PM   #88
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You can't perform the diagnostic procedure to properly trouble-shoot this issue without a Tech II. Right now, you're guessing at what the problem is. Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check? The Powertrain OBD System Check is an organized approach to identifying a concern created by an electronic engine control system malfunction. The Powertrain OBD System Check is the starting point for any driveability concern diagnosis. The Powertrain OBD System Check directs the service technician to the next logical step in diagnosing a concern. Understanding and using the table correctly will reduce the diagnostic time and prevent the replacement of good parts. That's straight from the service manual.

Personally, I would never replace such an expensive part as a catalytic converter without first knowing that it was bad. A $3 part? No problem, bit never something expensive.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:42 PM   #89
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You can't perform the diagnostic procedure to properly trouble-shoot this issue without a Tech II. Right now, you're guessing at what the problem is. Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check? The Powertrain OBD System Check is an organized approach to identifying a concern created by an electronic engine control system malfunction. The Powertrain OBD System Check is the starting point for any driveability concern diagnosis. The Powertrain OBD System Check directs the service technician to the next logical step in diagnosing a concern. Understanding and using the table correctly will reduce the diagnostic time and prevent the replacement of good parts. That's straight from the service manual.

I did compression test when I baught it and it checked out good.

You already know the rest of the story (new OP, knock, cam sensor, intake gaskets, plugs and wires) so even without putting it on a scanner (which I dont have access to any way) I know its either a fuel or cat problem now. I was replacing the O2s anyway because they were at 141,000 miles. Should have been replaced ages ago and looks like one was, but thats neither here or there now. Just have to see if its the fuel but most likely not, and will be that side cat.

Personally, I would never replace such an expensive part as a catalytic converter without first knowing that it was bad. A $3 part? No problem, bit never something expensive.

I'm not going to replace the cats, I'm going throw them out and put high flow ones on in the near futer any way. So what I was saying was that this whole problem is moot if in fact it is not the fuel ( or sticky injector).

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Old 02-17-2013, 05:23 PM   #90
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Well, I put the Corsas on. Now the car is ANGRY!

I like it. I can hardly wait until the rest of the exhaust is done. The headers and high flows. See other thread.



The finished product.



Much better looking than the stock ones.

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