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Old 07-03-2012, 02:15 PM   #31
wildcatlock
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It's been awhile since my last post, it's summer and business has been busy.

I finished stripping the front end and cleaned it up for paint. It appears the old unsealed batteries of the '80s had dumped on the framerail and eaten a hole into it. Looks like a good enough excuse to buy a TIG welder or possible rent one for the day to make the repair. A-arms have been cleaned up and slowly replacing the rubber bushings and installing the poly bushings. Since I'm seriously OCD, I couldn't just stop with cleaning and replacing the bushings, so I have new ball joints, tie rod ends, and rack and pinion boots.

I finally closed up the motor yesterday. I've been waiting on little parts here and there. Had a hell of a time finding cheaper valve covers for the LT1 motor. Searching the internet today to find a good schematic in order to locate all of the engine sensors I will need. The motor mounts I ordered were the wrong ones, so I am reusing the old ones from the Crossfire until I can find poly replacements. Good project for the winter. Same thing with all of the little things like headers, exhaust, intake, etc. I'm installing the stock components now and replacing later.

Before


After


I think you will need to turn your driver side valve cover around ( move the offset part to the back or rear ) in order to clear the wiper motor. Looks great though. I know exactly what you mean about the OCD. Mine went through the same starting about a year ago, just about to the point to go back on the road now. Hell I had to buy another 90 just so I wouldnt miss driving the 86 while it was torn down for so long. Now I am down to dyno tune and alignment and should be good to go again. Keep upi the good work.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:32 PM   #32
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I will look into the valve cover issue. I was under the impression that it is notched to clear the alternator. The F-body one the company makes is on the passenger side, since the F-body and Vette mount accessories on opposite sides.

I only wish I had the money for another Vette. Everyday I see them driving around and while on duty I travel all over and have seen many C4s for sale.
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:12 AM   #33
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I will look into the valve cover issue. I was under the impression that it is notched to clear the alternator. The F-body one the company makes is on the passenger side, since the F-body and Vette mount accessories on opposite sides.

I only wish I had the money for another Vette. Everyday I see them driving around and while on duty I travel all over and have seen many C4s for sale.
Yeah f-bodies dont have an issue with the wiper motor clearance. I never had an issue with alt. clearance, always with the wiper motor. You can gain about a 1/2 inch by removing the rubber bushings or go to one from IIRC an s-10 blazer, though I have never done this. I always modify the valve covers. Where did you find yours? I like the looks and they seem to be a bit taller than mine. Were they already notched?
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:17 AM   #34
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Those are custom valve covers from Canton Racing. They did come notched. Very clean TIG welds. I like the oil fill too. It's a screw in cap with an o-ring seal. They have 3.5" internal clearance for roller rockers and high lift cams. They make a road race oil pan (7qt) for the LT1 also. I will be going after that next year.

I will be installing the accessories soon, so i will see if there is any kind of clearance issue. I may need to replace the wiper motor anyways since there is a hole in the motor case from a previous owner.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:25 AM   #35
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Looks fantastic!! Nice work.
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
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A-arms have been cleaned up and slowly replacing the rubber bushings and installing the poly bushings. Since I'm seriously OCD, I couldn't just stop with cleaning and replacing the bushings, so I have new ball joints, tie rod ends, and rack and pinion boots.
You'll be glad you did. Having all new bushings, joints and rod ends really livened up my ride quality. Everything is tighter and more predictable on the rougher roads. Great progress, the motor looks fantastic.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:42 AM   #37
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A little reprieve from the heat for my weekend on Monday and Tuesday. Plan is to finsh the front end and get the rearend out and start disassembly. maybe with some luck I'll get it done too. I'm ready to put the motor and trans in and get started on the electrical.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:51 PM   #38
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Last edited by BadBlackVett; 07-14-2012 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:23 PM   #39
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While you have it out replace the three seals on the rear. Might save tearing it back out. The hardest part is getting the retaining clips off the output yokes. Post some pics so we can all drool over your work.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:10 PM   #40
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I didn't think much about that. I will plan to replace those seals so I won't have to worry about it later.

I will definately post pics as I make progress.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:26 PM   #41
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:27 PM   #42
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It took a few day to get the rearend cleaned and the bushings replaced, family matters took precedent. Anyhow, tonight I was bored and went outside to tinker on the rearend. Before I knew it the links came right off and the bushings popped right out. Now that I was on a roll, I just kept going and the bushings are installed and the rearend is almost ready to reinstall.

Anyone reading this and haven't installed the poly bushings yet, good luck. A little insight to the operation. If you do not have a shop press or a big benchtop vise, get one, or buy a good set of drill bits. Since I don't have either the press or vise yet, the drill bits come in handy drilling the old rubber to create relief. Once the old bushings have been drilled through in multiple spots, the sleeves will slide out or hammer out. Once the sleeve is out, the rubber will by pliable enough to use a large screrwdriver to pry out. A large cheap flat blade screwdriver, dead blow hammer and a large set of cheap sockets will come in handy. When drilling out the rubber bushings, be careful to not drill into the aluminum parts of the suspension, just drill real close to the sleeve and use small drill bits. I noticed that of all of the bushings, the lower strut rods had some pretty severe corrosion. With that said make sure you have a good round file or small wire wheel to put on a drill to clean the bushing surface well.

I had purchased the the Prothane complete kit and the only real problem I found with the kit is the spring mount bushings only came with the outer bushings. The rubber bushings that are sandwiched between the rigid mount and the spring had to be reused. I am also not satisfied that the kit didn't come with any sway bar bushings.

Wildcatlock,
I thought about what you said about the seals and I changed my mind. Having never owned or even driven a Corvette, I don't really know what to expect. If I were to replace the seals, I would have to replace the yokes(kinda rusted and rough looking) and the halfshaft u-joints. So instead, I am going to reinstall the rearend and drive the car for awhile. If after driving it, I have problems or want to install different gears, then I will do the complete rebuild and have a shop do it or get the tools I need to do it. Good winter project. It currently has no leaks and I'll do a fluid replace before reistallation.

The only thing I have left to do on the rearend is replace the rear toe center link assembly and new calipers and rotors. Next paycheck, I will order some of these parts. Hopefully this week I can get to my cousins place to get the lower a-arm ball joints pressed out and the new ones reinstalled.

Here are a few pics of the rearend with the new bushings.



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Old 01-16-2013, 12:49 AM   #43
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After six months of little to no time to work on the vette, I wrangled up some help to motivate myself to get going again. So my buddy came over the other day and helped me finish dismantling the dash. I gained access to the heater core and replaced it. Good thing I continued to tear it down. A mouse made its home in the vent system while at the last owners house. I cleaned out the bedding and flushed the A/C coil real well so it doesn't stink when I turn the vents on. With the dash out, I also gained access to the computer to remove it and the Crossfire engine harness.

We then installed the motor and the tranny. Realized the beautifully made Canton Racing valve covers I installed on the motor do not allow the motor to fit. We removed the valve covers and installed the motor. I tried to put the valve covers on after it was installed and the washer motor on the driver side was in the way and the A/C coil housing was in the way on the passenger side. I looked for some LT1/LT4 composite covers but for the same money I found a sharp looking set of carbon fiber covers.

Fingers crossed that I will get more time to work on the car. I also took the time to completely replace all brake rotors, calipers and rubber brake lines with steel braided. i think I will be replacing the master cylinder too, looks like it is leaking at the mounting base to the booster cylinder.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:52 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadBlackVett View Post
After six months of little to no time to work on the vette, I wrangled up some help to motivate myself to get going again. So my buddy came over the other day and helped me finish dismantling the dash. I gained access to the heater core and replaced it. Good thing I continued to tear it down. A mouse made its home in the vent system while at the last owners house. I cleaned out the bedding and flushed the A/C coil real well so it doesn't stink when I turn the vents on. With the dash out, I also gained access to the computer to remove it and the Crossfire engine harness.

We then installed the motor and the tranny. Realized the beautifully made Canton Racing valve covers I installed on the motor do not allow the motor to fit. We removed the valve covers and installed the motor. I tried to put the valve covers on after it was installed and the washer motor on the driver side was in the way and the A/C coil housing was in the way on the passenger side. I looked for some LT1/LT4 composite covers but for the same money I found a sharp looking set of carbon fiber covers.

Fingers crossed that I will get more time to work on the car. I also took the time to completely replace all brake rotors, calipers and rubber brake lines with steel braided. i think I will be replacing the master cylinder too, looks like it is leaking at the mounting base to the booster cylinder.
You will love the difference the poly will make. I can understand about not doing the seals on the rear, it can be a real PITA to get the circlips off the stub axel. I had the same valve cover problem with my 86 and just decided to modify to fit. I thing there is a wiper motor conversion you can do to gain more room. IIRC it is an s-10 blazer motor, or you can remove the rubber bushings and gain like 1/2". I just chose to modify the valve covers, cut a notch in them and took them to work and welded in a piece to fill the spot I needed removed. BTW I would love to see some pics of the CF covers. I have yet to see any. Rear looks great though. Keep up the good work.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:45 PM   #45
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Pics will definately be coming, waiting on the covers to arrive. Once they are on I will be sorting through the electrical to find what I need and what I don't to make it run. Little bits here and there and I should be done.

I might be hanging on to the aluminum covers. It seems as though I keep collecting centerbolt heads and motors. I tmay show up on a '70 Nova I am working on.
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