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Old 01-27-2013, 03:49 PM   #16
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oil pressure sending unit location behind intake near MAP sensor
Ain't it amazing that after all the years of engineering small block chevy's GM still has the oil pressure hole in virtually the same location! I wonder if they leak as bad on the LSx as on the earlier motors?
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:53 PM   #17
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Hey Hitman,
Where does your wire harness locate the ECU? Behind the dash maybe? Is that doable?
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:54 PM   #18
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I've been where you are now, I drove mine 275 miles and spun a rod bearing, that sucked but it allowed me to build a nice 402 LSX. On the bright side now you will have a fresh LS motor when done. Stick with it, once it all come together and is reliable, the LS is a blast to drive.

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Old 01-27-2013, 09:57 PM   #19
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If it makes you feel any better your not the only one in the boat. Worked on my sons 68 camaro for a year now dropped a valve killed a piston and head. Just now got it running so hang in thereMark
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slofut View Post
Hey Hitman,
Where does your wire harness locate the ECU? Behind the dash maybe? Is that doable?
Ended up putting it on the passenger side floor behind pocket map area...put it up there as much as I could. Also located fuse block next to it. Will make passengers squeeze their legs in a bit but who cares I'm building her for passengers!

Also, you mentioned you wanted some electrical details...anything in particular I can help you out with? I pretty much know where every sensor is like the back of my hand. If you are starting from scratch I recommend you call Jody at Vettaid and have him build you a harness with all the bells and whistles. Cost wise ends up being same thing as buying a stand-alone and then adding fuse block for fans, connectors for gauges, etc. New gauge setup from Vettaid is like $1000 by the way...still cheaper and easier than doing it yourself. Each gauge is like $250! I basically had Jody take my stand-alone harness and combine it with new OEM ac/heater controls and make custom connections for my gauge setup. All simple plug-n-play.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:46 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitman11_ac View Post
Ended up putting it on the passenger side floor behind pocket map area...put it up there as much as I could. Also located fuse block next to it. Will make passengers squeeze their legs in a bit but who cares I'm building her for passengers!

Also, you mentioned you wanted some electrical details...anything in particular I can help you out with? I pretty much know where every sensor is like the back of my hand. If you are starting from scratch I recommend you call Jody at Vettaid and have him build you a harness with all the bells and whistles. Cost wise ends up being same thing as buying a stand-alone and then adding fuse block for fans, connectors for gauges, etc. New gauge setup from Vettaid is like $1000 by the way...still cheaper and easier than doing it yourself. Each gauge is like $250! I basically had Jody take my stand-alone harness and combine it with new OEM ac/heater controls and make custom connections for my gauge setup. All simple plug-n-play.
Anything wrong with using the the factory analog gauges? I can see the speedo being a mini project, but it seems like the temp, oil press, batt voltage, tach etc.. would work off regular analog sensors. I guess you'd end up with redundant sensors everywhere though as the ecm needs info from the same? I'm checking out vettaid... Thanks
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:05 AM   #22
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Loving this thread too...about to dive into the same project.
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slofut View Post
Anything wrong with using the the factory analog gauges? I can see the speedo being a mini project, but it seems like the temp, oil press, batt voltage, tach etc.. would work off regular analog sensors. I guess you'd end up with redundant sensors everywhere though as the ecm needs info from the same? I'm checking out vettaid... Thanks
You can use a Cable-X box to drive the speedometer. The tach signal needs to be reprogrammed to read correctly but works with the electric tach. I installed my 72 tach face onto a 75 tach back end to keep the original look. Oil pressure - either mechanical or electric - can be tapped off the fitting above the oil filter. For temp you are better off mounting the stock temp sensor in a radiator or heater hose line rather than trying to find a LS-type sensor with a resistance curve that matches the old sensors. I didn't do anything to the amp gauge - it just worked.



Rick B.
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72 Ontario Orange Coupe. 2001 LS1 - LS6 block & Intake, Thunder Racing Cam, Ported heads and Throttle Body, Meziere electric water pump, Hooker Shorty Headers, 2001 T56 6-speed trans, VB&P Street & Slalom suspension, Magnaflow SS exhaust. Future mods: High-Performance floor mats.
Old 02-02-2013, 04:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slofut View Post
Anything wrong with using the the factory analog gauges? I can see the speedo being a mini project, but it seems like the temp, oil press, batt voltage, tach etc.. would work off regular analog sensors. I guess you'd end up with redundant sensors everywhere though as the ecm needs info from the same? I'm checking out vettaid... Thanks
All your questions can be answered by Vettaid but for the most part you can use analog sensors. You will just need to tap into the engine for your temp sensors. My coolant sensor is on the passenger side head...there is a small port there that you can tap. I used the area above the oil filter to tap and put oil temp sensor. Oil pressure is behind intake. As for the speedo are you going 4L60E or sticking with C3 tranny? If using 4L60e your options are cablex or you can get a compatible tailhousing. Not too sure about the tach signal though because there really isn't a place to install sensor for that. I'll try and find some pics for all the above mentioned.

You will also need a TCC Brake Switch wired in.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #25
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BTW, after checking compression and monitoring coolant level I am thinking I don't need rebuild after all. After a lot of reading I realized LS1's have PCV issues. I think upgrading PCV system should remedy the smoke problem. The engine sounds like a champ so I am really hoping this does trick. Will test drive next week...once new tranny dipstick arrives and gets installed.
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitman11_ac View Post
BTW, after checking compression and monitoring coolant level I am thinking I don't need rebuild after all. After a lot of reading I realized LS1's have PCV issues. I think upgrading PCV system should remedy the smoke problem. The engine sounds like a champ so I am really hoping this does trick. Will test drive next week...once new tranny dipstick arrives and gets installed.
Hey that's great news!!
I was feeling your pain!
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitman11_ac View Post
All your questions can be answered by Vettaid but for the most part you can use analog sensors. You will just need to tap into the engine for your temp sensors. My coolant sensor is on the passenger side head...there is a small port there that you can tap. I used the area above the oil filter to tap and put oil temp sensor. Oil pressure is behind intake. As for the speedo are you going 4L60E or sticking with C3 tranny? If using 4L60e your options are cablex or you can get a compatible tailhousing. Not too sure about the tach signal though because there really isn't a place to install sensor for that. I'll try and find some pics for all the above mentioned.

You will also need a TCC Brake Switch wired in.
Using T56 six speed manual. Really like the old school dial faces. Also need to save some bucks where possible.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:38 PM   #28
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Using T56 six speed manual. Really like the old school dial faces. Also need to save some bucks where possible.
Yeah I do to. I am a bit regretful that I didn't keep the old-school look or at least stick to black face gauges. Too late now.
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:06 PM   #29
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Anybody home?
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