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Old 01-27-2013, 10:45 AM   #31
tektrans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brent319 View Post
Good eye spotting the LS. That is the chassis for my one and only vette.
Sweeeeeeeeeeet!!
Back wheels are HUGE!
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:25 PM   #32
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I pulled mine to paint it....wasn't fun but drilling out my broken off exhaust bolts with the manifold still on was a major PITA....the bolts were frozen to the manifolds thus making it a solid piece.
I'll take it a touch further since I just did this today.

The vacuum tank on a 72 (under the drivers fender just above the charcoal can)

Less than 2 minutes to remove the tank. 6 small bolts easily accessible from the wheel well. 3 hosed slipped easily off 3 pipes

A little over an hour to remove the steering column (OK, I wanted it out for another reason) to get at the P/S bolts easier (I've been down this road before) and that hideous clip on the brake rod/pedal

Then you can move the PB boaster/master out of the way to allow for the tank to come out. (OK I took it off but again, that's another story)

Ranks right up there with:
Running a new fuel and return line with the body on.
Radio removal (those two nuts on the bottom of the center gauge cluster)
Trailing arm bolts (we've all been there)
headlight switch replacement
removing that nut from the back of the e-brake console that you need to access from the rear storage compartments.
And I do this for "fun", but honestly, I can say I hated some of these, but I can't think of any I wouldn't do (read pay someone else to do) again if they really needed to be done.
Mooser
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #33
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Laying on my back looking through my bi-focals trying to get to that damn fuse block. GM really pissed me off,. I want have that problem anymore, i'am installing a new fuse block in the compartment behind the seat when I get this thing rewired. I plan on making everything as accessible as possible when I go back together with it, including installing a ground bar and power bar under the hood for future projects. That huge AC system will be replaced with vintage air. Looks like to me they could have bolted the front clip on instead of gluing it. when I pulled the body the front fell off GM. One other PITA, trying to figure where all that heat was coming from. Turned out most of it was comming from the broken glue joints on the front clip and the seal was missing where the firewall meets the hood. If the glue joints are not sealed the engine compartment heat goes in the fresh air compartment and in the cabin. Ok i'am through ranting overall I love my Vette Mark
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:23 PM   #34
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changed the main bearings in the car in a motel parking lot , in the rain. lucky it was on a trailer. it was at a 2 day race years ago. you guys are cry babies, brake booster lol
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #35
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Hand sanded the paint all the way thru to gel coat. (circa 1986) Then we filled/fared the seams in paint prep.
[Must have been a "bonding experience" - we're still together!]
But next time - soda blaster!
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:27 PM   #36
drbluevert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooser View Post
. . . . . .

Ranks right up there with:

removing that nut from the back of the e-brake console that you need to access from the rear storage compartments.
Mooser
By chance do you have any pictures of this area?
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Rich
Old 01-30-2013, 07:27 PM   #37
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By chance do you have any pictures of this area?
Sort of
Here's a picture with the lie that it comes off. (not my picture)


Right against the back wall there is a tab that has the hole in it.


(cough, cough, thanks Alan from other site, cough, cough)

Under the console piece there is the reinforcement bracket with the tapped hole in the end (not my picture)


Looking in the jack compartment (well, feeling in the compartment) in front of the center liner, against the wall there is the head of the bolt that goes into that brace.



You can get it out through here. I used a flex-head ratcheting wrench last time, it doesn't quite really fit on since the bolt is in a hole so you need to get a couple of turns on it using whatever works (socket, off-set boxed end, etc)

In all reality, removing the compartment doors so you can remove the center liner is probably easier.

People not bolting that brace back in is probably responsible for more broken e-brake consoles than anything else.
Mooser
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:02 PM   #38
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Wow! I have taken apart at least a dozen C3s and each time the bolt was in the console just like the picture and I did notice the bolt hole in-line on the back incline. I have a 71 and 72 apart now and I will make that correction. Thanks Mooser
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Rich
Old 02-01-2013, 04:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7t9l82 View Post
changed the main bearings in the car in a motel parking lot , in the rain. lucky it was on a trailer. it was at a 2 day race years ago. you guys are cry babies, brake booster lol
I think that this one wins!!! You got have big B**ls for this job in the rain outside on your back! Better you than me!!
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