This is the electric light conversion I was talking about

[D_B]

Originally Posted by Richard454

I think its a little bit more afFORDable...

(2) 93-97Ford Probe Headlight Motors- $15-35 each
(2)Simpson BC60Z galvanized post cap(Home Depot/Lowes)$12/each
(2)Rod end bearing-Hardware store $8 each
(1)12" threaded rod 5/16 18 $3
(1) Bosch type relay DPST $5

Tools needed- jig saw-unibit-file- couple drill bits-scrap wood-paint(not really needed since it's galvanized)-some wire and terminals...

EASILY done for under a C note- and a few hours worth of work.

Richard

Richard,

These might work out great for some changes I plan to make to my headlights...but I will need a shorter throw. Based on your experience with these Probe motors, do you think that the motor's arm could be shortened to change the throw from it's current distance to something a little less?

[Richard454]

Originally Posted by D_B

Richard,

These might work out great for some changes I plan to make to my headlights...but I will need a shorter throw. Based on your experience with these Probe motors, do you think that the motor's arm could be shortened to change the throw from it's current distance to something a little less?

DB-
The motor should be able to handle the extra load...worst case you've burned up $15....


slofut-

It doesn't look like and issues...however I haven't had the chance to re-fit my hood...


Bill-

I know you're weren't knocking "my" setup...but the Firebird headlight motor's plastic gears seem to strip out more often...


Richard

[Marks76ray]

Hey Richard, thanks for the conversion idea. So far I like this method the best and have bought 2 motors off e-bay. I wanted new motors and found 2 NOS motors for a total of $170. I know I could of saved money using old ones I just wanted new motors. One thing I am going to try is making a link arm with right and left hand threads so a fine tune adjustment can be made. Its amazing the throw on the motors arm is the wright length. Electrically there is endless possibilities for controlling the motors and thats one thing I really liked about the setup. Again Richard thanks for the thread. Mark

[Richard454]

Thanks Mark...but again I can't take credit for the idea....just took what others have done and fine tuned it....

Here's the headlights mounted and operational...pardon the camera work- The wires were only so long..holding the camera and touching the wires is sorta of like rubbing your belly and patting you head...

Richard

You Tube

You Tube

[D_B]

Originally Posted by Richard454

Thanks Mark...but again I can't take credit for the idea....just took what others have done and fine tuned it....

Here's the headlights mounted and operational...pardon the camera work- The wires were only so long..holding the camera and touching the wires is sorta of like rubbing your belly and patting you head...

Richard

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCFWs0D3eGE

Wow that's fast.

I got myself a set of the motors and am going to do this when I modify my bezels for smaller lights. That's why I was asking about maybe making a different arm to change the throw distance.

[Richard454]

Originally Posted by D_B

Wow that's fast.

I got myself a set of the motors and am going to do this when I modify my bezels for smaller lights. That's why I was asking about maybe making a different arm to change the throw distance.

Yes- you can do that w/ shortening the wiper arm -BUT the headlights door's linkage was not designed to "stop" in the middle of travel- where as it won't lock in place. And there will be tension on the springs wanting to move it up or down.

Richard

[Drawmain]

Wow that is SLICK! Adding yet another thing to my wish list, lol!

[D_B]

Originally Posted by Richard454

Yes- you can do that w/ shortening the wiper arm -BUT the headlights door's linkage was not designed to "stop" in the middle of travel- where as it won't lock in place. And there will be tension on the springs wanting to move it up or down.

Richard

Yep that's exactly right. Part of the project was redesigning the door linkages and shortening them so they lifted a 4" light and bezel so the overall height is different but it still locks in place. The vacuum actuators would work fine with the shortened linkage but these motors would require me to shorten the throw with smaller arms.

[John 65]

Thanks very much for posting this info. Currently waiting for my motors to arrive from ebay. Cant wait to try this on my 77. Just not to sure where to find the end links coming off the threaded rod end at the motor.

[D_B]

Originally Posted by John 65

Thanks very much for posting this info. Currently waiting for my motors to arrive from ebay. Cant wait to try this on my 77. Just not to sure where to find the end links coming off the threaded rod end at the motor.

Some hardware stores carry them. Grainger. Ebay. Amazon.

[John 65]

Originally Posted by D_B

Some hardware stores carry them. Grainger. Ebay. Amazon.

OK Thanks. I was thinking bout going with 2 more ends like the ones coming off the vac cans now, but will wait till the motors get here to check for the correct diameter.

[lsejlowe]

McMaster Carr.com has lots of useful bits as well

[slofut]

Originally Posted by Richard454

Yes- you can do that w/ shortening the wiper arm -BUT the headlights door's linkage was not designed to "stop" in the middle of travel- where as it won't lock in place. And there will be tension on the springs wanting to move it up or down.
Richard

Richard, do you have your hood on yet? I decided to buy a couple probe motors off ebay in case I wanted to go your route, and probably will. But hood opening clearance may be a deal killer for me.
Sure would like to hear from you when you can check hood open/close.
Thanks,
Bill

[7TRoadster]

The vacuum actuator measures almost 4" tall from the 4 bolt mount to the back of the flat. As long as the assembly is less than that there should be no clearance problems.

As I recall the stock setup cleared by a half inch or so. One might be able to encroach into this clearance space a little bit.

I wouldn't make the tolerances too close. I mean there could be some flexing of the mount during operation.

[John 65]

Ok found a pair of motors and the came today. Quick question, I see there's black, red, white and yellow wires at the 4 pin connector. Would like to test them but not sure where to apply the 12v and the ground to do so. Any thoughts? Thank you.