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Old 02-08-2013, 03:09 PM   #16
smooth cruising
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Assembling trailing arm bushings,

I made a contraption to compress the rubber in the sleeves and set the taper. Took a matter of minutes to create and I couldn't imagine doing it any other way.

You can also see I decided to use a vise to form the taper in the sleeve, purely for comfort. I felt more comfortable having felt the force being applied then guessing and damaging it in a hydraulic press. a mechanical press is another option but I found this way most ergonomic and pleasing.. Just make sure to use a heavy duty vise!

Any questions?, just ask.








Last edited by smooth cruising; 02-08-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:15 PM   #17
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A little more trailing arm updates,

Using an old spindle with decent front bearing already seated I began setting up the final bearing shim on the left side. I cut off the old front seal and for ease of setup I ground down the inside diameter of a decent rear hub bearing so it could be pulled on and off the spindle by hand, instead of force.





I pressed the new races into the hub and laid out the shim and spacer kit included with the rebuild parts. Starting with the largest shim and working down I got within .003" and called it good enough. That will be the end play on the left side. With new bearings and final snug might tighten it some another .001" possibly. I measured the end play with a small dial indicator and used a couple small pry bars between the spindle and hub to make my movements,, method not shown but worked well.



Assembled parking brake hardware and installed all studs for left side, then mounted hub to arm.





Bearings will go in tomorrow, but I need to aquire some wheel bearing grease.. Right side to be repeated!
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:49 PM   #18
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I made a tool exactly like what you did for your trailing arm bushings. Worked great and i couldnt imagine doing it any other way. I hardened the flaring part of the tool though so it would last much longer
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #19
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Great progress, nice work on the trailing arms.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #20
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Shimming up the right side hub bearings I noticed the one outer race seated in the hub was spinning in its seat by hand.. This problem isn't something I consider a major issue as long as there is no side to side movement noticable. I inspected the hub for any cracks but found nothing. since there is a tolerable amount clearance I decided to use some loctite 680 around the race and then seated it in the bore under some preload in a stacked spindle assembly until cured.

Taking a closer look at that side hub looks to be a case of an overheated bearing to failure,, at some point of that hubs life. Thankfully not on my car! Evidence on the outer rim of the hub show some wear when the bearing failed and spindle crashed into the bore. Im glad I wasn't in that car when it happened!! But I feel the hub will live to drive many more miles

Last edited by smooth cruising; 02-12-2013 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:58 AM   #21
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More bad news for that side spindle assembly.. just finishing off the last of the assembly for the right side. Pressed the new bearings on the new shaft and inserted the spindle into the hub. After I got it snugged up I noticed a tough spot in the rotation, I then looked into the round out of the spindle and it was very off!!... $#!t...

Must be a bent spindle?! I set up that hub using a different spindle without these problems so im going to assume that's the case here..


I did manage to remove the new bearings without damage and am now in the process of converting the spindle for my 2nd best spindle, but it does have mild pitting on the journal and im not excited about using it... But it is only a grease seal and not an oil seal, which isn't nearly as critical for fluid retention

Last edited by smooth cruising; 02-13-2013 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:32 AM   #22
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Finally got a nice straight spindle! Polished the worst of the pitting from the seal journal and gave it some loving. Had about .001" end play with this one using a .115" shim, feels really nice
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:37 AM   #23
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I need some caliper assistance!

Im trying in all my power to use as much as I can from this rear end I found. After the arms I want to get the calipers sorted out. I've already gone over one of them, disassembled one completely and found no sleeves and quite a bit of corrosion. Im not ready to rule them out and turn them in for core if I can save alot of money rebuilding them.

$50-70 dollars is still too much money for me to justify spending on something I could likely recreate on my own time,

I want to know what a standard bore size is on one of these rear calipers. I also want to know the tolerance between the bore and cylinder. And I also would like to get full specifications on a reproduction 'o-ring cylinder.. As in dimensions, o-ring groove locations and sizing, and also any special features, as in shoulders or a radius. Pictures would also be priceless to have. Also if anyone could tell what size o-ring was used in the kits also.

Thanks for any assistance

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Old 02-15-2013, 07:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smooth cruising View Post

$50-70 dollars is still too much money for me to justify spending on something I could likely recreate on my own time,
If they're original un-sleeved units, I wouldn't waste my time on them, when you can get SS sleeved units for around $100.

Anything you could do to the OEM pair will still leave you with cast iron bores which are prone to corrosion.

I would turn them in as cores for a reman. SS sleeved pair. Plus you get a warranty with the remans. Totally worth the $, the time savings and peace of mind!
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:05 AM   #25
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Yea but $100 is still $100,, while I could sleeve them in stainless or whatever I have on the shelf then make new pistons. Saving the money for other investments. pointless to me to be lazy about it since I have the equipment readily available to set up with.

I replaced a front caliper last season and got one from the white box store 'car quest' couldn't believe it cost me $180 plus core for a remain unit... Easily the most expensive cali I've ever purchased. Maybe a Canadian thing? if calipers were under $50 id be all over replacing them
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:17 PM   #26
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New rotors came in and im slowly working on the calipers, been kinda busy with work this month.


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Old 03-05-2013, 05:59 PM   #27
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pointless to me to be lazy about it since I have the equipment readily available to set up with.
Dang I'm jealous...
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:38 AM   #28
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One of the only real perks of working for a small custom machine shop in in this great city, im certainly not here for the pay I receive lol. But my personal work I can accomplish is priceless

I went ahead and sourced some adjustable strut rod kit and a trailing arm shim and bolt set from mid America, couldn't really beat the price for them so they are coming along in time. Thought about making them but lack correct size left and right hand tap selections. and after cost of joints and hardware I just couldnt beat these. Seen here, http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...-157-1435.html
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:35 PM   #29
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Rods showed up tonight along with new trailing arm shims and
Hardware for the install

Last edited by smooth cruising; 03-22-2013 at 07:27 AM.
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