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Old 02-14-2013, 04:25 PM   #1
C5 Dude
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Clutch stuck- WTF!

Well I did some sport driving and guess what...the clutch pedal didn't want to come back up and I had to use my foot to get it back up. Drove it a bit and then it acted fine. Did some more dumps and then it was on the floor again. WTF. Is this a master problem?

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:46 AM   #2
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Wow!!!! This has never happened to anyone I've known. Joke.

This has been a problem for a while. Take a turkey baster and suck out your old dirty fluid. Put in some new clutch/brake fluid. Pump your clutch 30 to 40 times. Suck out the fluid again and keep doing it until your fluid is clear. I put a remote drain on my race car to battle this problem.





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Old 02-15-2013, 12:02 PM   #3
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Wow!!!! This has never happened to anyone I've known. Joke.

This has been a problem for a while. Take a turkey baster and suck out your old dirty fluid. Put in some new clutch/brake fluid.Pump your clutch 30 to 40 times. Suck out the fluid again and keep doing it until your fluid is clear. I put a remote drain on my race car to battle this problem.

Jr.
I think I will put a remote drain on mine as well. I am almost ready to do the clutch anyway so I guess adding that durring the instal shouldn't be too bad. I will do the turkey baster thing in the mean time tho.

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Old 02-15-2013, 12:30 PM   #4
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My 98 started doing this, then one day it just stuck to the floor and wouldn't come up.I had to pump the peddle about 40 times to build up presure to get it home. Turned out to be a bad slave cylinder. I just finished replacing it with a LS6 hydraculics and a LS7 clutch kit. I had 90,000 miles daily driven and no track time on it. Big job for a $135.00 part.







you can see the bad slave on the front
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:23 PM   #5
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If you are going to replace it, I would look into the Tick adjustable unit.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:43 PM   #6
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If you are going to replace it, I would look into the Tick adjustable unit.
That's what I'm going with. Of course all of this may be on hold depending on what the axhaust looks like when I get to the yard tomorrow and look at the Kooks headers and Corsa muffs. The grand I have saved up would be better spent on that right now since new it is way more and I can just save up for the clutch again.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slvr bulit View Post
My 98 started doing this, then one day it just stuck to the floor and wouldn't come up.I had to pump the peddle about 40 times to build up presure to get it home. Turned out to be a bad slave cylinder. I just finished replacing it with a LS6 hydraculics and a LS7 clutch kit. I had 90,000 miles daily driven and no track time on it. Big job for a $135.00 part.
How long did it take? Also, how much of a PITA was it to get everything apart on jack stands?
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:48 AM   #8
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It took about 5 hours to jack up the car and get everything out. I'll post some pictures. Doing it on jackstands was certantly a adventure
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:09 PM   #9
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It took about 5 hours to jack up the car and get everything out. I'll post some pictures. Doing it on jackstands was certantly a adventure
You see, THAT'S why I keep holding off on trying it that way. I don't know if I want to go that route if it's going to be a major paint in the ass. Let's see your pictures, especially getting the car up high enough.
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:33 PM   #10
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You see, THAT'S why I keep holding off on trying it that way. I don't know if I want to go that route if it's going to be a major paint in the ass. Let's see your pictures, especially getting the car up high enough.
Popping the engine out is an option too. That seems easy for me since I've popped mine out several times. When I was in there I put in a new slave cylinder and a new master cylinder in addition to the remote bleeder.















Jr.
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:00 PM   #11
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AJ, it is actually a LOT easier than it looks to pull the rear out to get to the clutch. I have done both ways, and pulling the rear out is by far the easiest way for a street car. The last time I pulled it out, it took about 3 hours to do it including the exhaust.

You can get it high enough with any auto parts store 2k jack stand. It helps to have a 2nd set of hands to pull it and put it back in- simply to make it easier to maneuver the torque tube.



That is the only pic I have on my comp at the moment, but that is how it comes out. You can also see roughly how high the car is. The jack stands I used only go up 18", and they were sitting under 1" jacking pucks under the frame.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:18 PM   #12
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I know HOW to pull everything out, I just don't know how HARD it is to do on jack stands. I can easily do it with a lift, but I don't want to tie up my buddy's lift that long. You all know how slow I work!
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:25 PM   #13
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It is unbelievably easy and can even be done with hand tools (I did). The only thing you really need other than basic hand tools is a ratchet strap, some wood blocks (to secure the jack to the trans) and someone to help lower it out and put it back up. The thing that sucks the most is removing the tunnel plate and its 36x 1/4" bolts.

with normal 2ton jackstands you don't have room to get on a creeper, but there is more than enough room without one. I would say it's difficulty would be as easy, if not easier, than pulling the engine from your caballero.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #14
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Hell, I can get the car up high enough with jack stand to roll under the car all over the place. The one thing that also concerns me is supporting the engine so that it does not lay up against the firewall and crack it.

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Old 02-16-2013, 06:51 PM   #15
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I just used a bottle jack with a 2x4 under the oil pan. The torque tube has a diagram on how low you can go with it before you hit the firewall.
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