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Old 02-02-2013, 07:56 AM   #31
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Shaping up very nicely, the frame and fiberglass work look outstanding. I appreciate the quality of your work.

I must admit to being curious about the effect the infrared light has on fiberglass? I have noticed that moving freshly glassed parts into direct sunlight speeds the curing process by quite a bit. I thought it had something to do with UV but don't know for sure. Are you using this for heat or is there some chemistry going on here?

Great pics too, we love pics.
Thanks Riggs, finally making forward progress. The most time consuming thing in a project is when you take something off and realize you can't put it back on without painting both the piece, and where it came from!

7t, the ir lamps help cure paint and especially fiberglass. I've used them in the bodyshops for years. The infrared light either from bulbs or heat panels speed up the chemical process in catalyzed products. Not sure if its the radiant heat or the light. But for sure the radiant heat is a million times more effective than fan type space heaters.
In the boat business we used to use the sun to kick off glass resin that was slow to cure. So I'm sure both infrared and uv have a positive effect on curing in paint and resin.
Also, if you've ever had bare fiberglass sitting outside for years you can see the effects of uv from the sun ...it will slowly evaporate the surface of the material. About like a PVC pipe, I have some ovaled from the sun wearing away the surface!

Last edited by slofut; 02-02-2013 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:44 PM   #32
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Wow, I hit a milestone today. After 3 tries (several weeks) I finally got an acceptable coat of paint on the wheel wells and firewall/floorpan today. I think the previous paint problems came down to a combination of circumstances and trying to meet self imposed deadlines to work around my job, the weather and holidays. I'll bet everyone knows how this goes. So it cost me having to resand and prep 4 times, but I think this time it's ok. Even though the firewall has much more texture from the lizardskin than I wanted, I'll have to live with it. So if it looks OK tomorrow, it will free me up to start in the other direction with the whole project and start getting things back together! I'll post pics tomorrow.
Bill
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:53 AM   #33
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You can dull down the lizard skin texture with a few coats of paint if a smoother surface is what your looking for, it also helps eliminate tiny little pockets for dirt to sit in, and over time for the surface to look messy with dirt.

Riggs.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:08 PM   #34
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Looks like your moving at a pretty good pace...
Trust me...I think we all understand "working around work"...

We want pics....I want to see the too much texture you're talking about. I'm hopefully gonna spay Lizardskin Sunday as it should be in the upper 60's here...

Richard
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:03 PM   #35
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Looks like your moving at a pretty good pace...
Trust me...I think we all understand "working around work"...

We want pics....I want to see the too much texture you're talking about. I'm hopefully gonna spay Lizardskin Sunday as it should be in the upper 60's here...

Richard
Richard if you're spraying the floors it's not too big a deal, but if you're spraying the firewall, or an area that's going to be seen I'd suggest to practice first. I wish I could have sprayed a couple cups full on something sacrificial before I sprayed the firewall. Gun changes pattern and flow as you go, have to dick around with the nozzle sometimes on the fly. The pattern and flow would get lighter and I would turn the nozzle back and forth a half turn while still spraying and it would go back to better flow for a minute and repeat etc... also, the trigger stuck open on the second cup, kept going but ended up stopping mid coat and taking the trigger apart, cleaning it out and reassembling before I could finish the coat. All in all not a pleasant experience for me. Looks like I undercoated the shit outta the firewall. I had many hours of cleaning and prep time before spraying this stuff on there.

This is after I sprayed a satin black urethane on for protection and easier cleaning. Paint is still a bit wet so it'll look better when dry.









This is the wheel wells and frame, satin black AG111. This urethane is impervious to almost everything.






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Old 02-23-2013, 10:15 PM   #36
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Richard I also think I would thin the LS by the max amount. I used half of max, 2oz per gallon. Probably would get better flow and pattern with more reduction. You'll need as much light as you can get. You'll also have to play with air pressure a little. It's easy to get a great pattern on a piece of cardboard, and go to the car and start spraying, but then watch for changes in pattern and flow in the middle of things. Could be just my luck, others seem to have had no problems spraying the stuff.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:02 PM   #37
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With the lizard skin on the fire wall, I only sprayed the face of the fire wall with that and used flat black paint on the upper parts that faced upward so that the texture wasn't exposed when you veiled it from an over head view. I would suggest that others do the same to eliminate the the textured appearance where it's not needed.

Riggs
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:10 PM   #38
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By the way, I think what you have done looks fantastic, everything. I would spray the upper firewall a flat black to knock down the shine of the texture.

Riggs
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:35 PM   #39
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By the way, I think what you have done looks fantastic, everything. I would spray the upper firewall a flat black to knock down the shine of the texture.

Riggs

Thanks Riggs. The paint will cure slightly more satin than it looks in the pics, but it will probably still be too glossy. I'll have no problem spraying some flat black urethane on the top surfaces like you suggest. I'll probably sand down some the texture too. What's crazy is the black on the fenderwells is the same paint that's on the firewall. Both sprayed at the same time.
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:23 AM   #40
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Did you use their gun to put it on? I didn't have any trouble like you are describing with putting it on. Just do not forget to clean the gun right after you're done.

When I sprayed my LZ SK on I put it on a little extra thick in those visible spots, then after it was dry block sanded the tops off with a 240 grit. A couple of coats of primer and then painted it body color with regular base/clear.

The finish has some texture to it but not very noticeable in the Laguna Gray color. Great work, the inner fender frame and cowl all look pretty nice to me. Very shortly it will be time to start putting goodies back on.........
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:01 AM   #41
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Did you use their gun to put it on? I didn't have any trouble like you are describing with putting it on. Just do not forget to clean the gun right after you're done.

When I sprayed my LZ SK on I put it on a little extra thick in those visible spots, then after it was dry block sanded the tops off with a 240 grit. A couple of coats of primer and then painted it body color with regular base/clear.

The finish has some texture to it but not very noticeable in the Laguna Gray color. Great work, the inner fender frame and cowl all look pretty nice to me. Very shortly it will be time to start putting goodies back on.........
I did use their gun. All new, had to clean the gun between cups of paint! I've never sprayed undercoat or bedliner before with a gun. I have a feeling this is about the same thing. There were spots where no matter how much I put on, it was still dry. I went back yesterday and brush painted those areas to build some film thickness with the urethane and even things out. Dad is ok with it, but after all the time spent, I'm disappointed as hell. Nothing I can really do about it either. There's serious material on there now, it would take months to strip that stuff off, and almost as long to sand it out. I also have serious carpal tunnel syndrome and I pay dearly after marathon sanding days.
I'll go back today and see how the brushed areas look, maybe if it's even overall now and no rough places I can live with it. I have about a quarter of a 2gal pail left over after spraying the bottom of the floors back to the rear crossmember and the firewall. Damn I wish it had turned out nice. And I'm a damn painter! Probably sprayed 200 gal of Imron back in the day, I was the only one around here that could spray it down slick, never buffed it. I should've been able to get this right...
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:48 AM   #42
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Bill-

Wow...thanks for the info-insight. I've never sprayed bedliner or undercaoting out of a gun...and really not that much paint either other than rattle cans...

So I guess this stuff doesn't really follow the rules of "a lot of prep work and then painting is the easy part"....

I'm gonna do the interior first-cover it really well- hit the trans tunnel underneath and maybe the lower part of the firewall- and not really mess w/ the visible part-sorta what Riggs did.

And - even though you know where your flaws are- I think your car looks great!!!

THANKS

Richard
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:10 PM   #43
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Bill-

Wow...thanks for the info-insight. I've never sprayed bedliner or undercaoting out of a gun...and really not that much paint either other than rattle cans...

So I guess this stuff doesn't really follow the rules of "a lot of prep work and then painting is the easy part"....
I'm gonna do the interior first-cover it really well- hit the trans tunnel underneath and maybe the lower part of the firewall- and not really mess w/ the visible part-sorta what Riggs did.
And - even though you know where your flaws are- I think your car looks great!!!
THANKS
Richard
Yea, I may be just me. But I haven't had a good time with the Liz Skin.
Check this out...



Blisters all over where I spot brushed the urethane yesterday. It looked better when I did it. Evened out the rough spots. But it blistered overnight. Separated the top layer of Lizard Skin. When you peel a blister, it would have a layer of lizard skin on the bottom of the blister, but left a layer of LS on the car.



So here we go...









Spent 4 hrs today stripping it off with a chisel.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:15 PM   #44
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Sorry for the crappy pics. There are lots more on my Photobucket page, which btw, isn't working too great either since they "upgraded and made it better"

I'm stripping the vette to about half way down the firewall, I'll finish the top part smooth and to hell with the Lizard Skin. The rest will have the LS on it and hopefully will be of benefit with heat. But that brings up another point that I'll have to post later. Life is calling at the moment...
Bill
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:51 PM   #45
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Crappy pictures...I really don't want to see good ones of a really bad day...

I'd be on the phone to Lizard Skin and see what they think it might be...How long did you wait between coats?

I know how you feel...I was doing my faux carbon fiber look w/ a base color and then a color sprayed through "drawer liner" to look like carbon fiber. Then I hit it w/ clear and it crazed the hell out of it... Checked on the internet-said nothing on the can - because the clear flashes fast- you are suppose to hit it a few times w/ really light coats first....So I had to start over...

What a bummer....

Photobucket- upgrade -yea, right!!!! I sucks now!!!


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