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Old 02-19-2013, 09:30 AM   #16
Fly03Z06
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
My 99 C5 had some goofy electrical issues when I bought it. The headlights would come on...by themselves...during the day. There was some other weird crap with the HUD blurring as well.

When I got the A/C fixed my electrical guy said the battery was the wrong type, and didn't have the right specs for the C5. He put an AC Delco in (even though he's an Interstate dealer) it, no issues ever since.

I found it interested he went with the Delco over the Interstate. He had the car for 10 days, so he had plenty of time to get an Interstate if he thought it was the right battery.

Go figure.
Sounds like you found a guy you can trust, who did his research and who was more interested in correcting the problem than just selling you a battery.
Bravo............those guys are few and far between.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly03Z06 View Post
With the C5's parasitic draw it is critical to how your electrical system and BCM will function BEFORE you ever turn the key. The C5's unloaded battery minimum is 12.5 volts at 500 CCA per Paul's tech video.

Required terminal torque is 11 FT. LBS.

Anything less.................you get BCM gemlins.
I've seen his videos.
The C5 draws less than 2 amperes during key-off periods (Just enough to maintain PC/system settings with theft deterent armed) and when its running, the alternator takes over at 13.78 to 14.4 volts and up to 125 available amperes.

As most know, a batterys CA and CCA only applies to how many peak amperes the starter will draw during starting depending on tempurature. The Red Optima group 78 produces 800 CCA and 1000 CA at 12.8 volts fully charged which far exceeds the factory requirements for the GM C5 that came stock with a 75.

In other words, RC really makes very little to no difference (Maybe .3 of a volt), unless you want longer life out of a battery for lighting, accesories or your stereo with the key off.

I've never thrown BCM codes. EVER. I check my PC every spring. The only history code I've ever noticed is P1416 AIR System bank 2 back in 2008 which cleared on its own. I didn't even throw any codes during the battery change because I left the battery maintainer hooked up. No idle learn procedure, no FOB reprogram, no clock reset or unlock, nothing. More than enough voltage and current to maintain memory.

Pauls "Tech" video primarily refers to the Column Lock issue which from what I heard by the dealer required too high a voltage to disengage the lock (hence the recall for the bypass) because GM knew it was cheaper to perform a simple bypass of of the column lock than it was to replace every battery in every C5. They also realized that no matter how good or big a 12 volt battery is, it will always drop below 12 nominal volts within a week without a charge because of the system draw you refered to.

He also NEVER mentions the vehicle's battery being maintained by a maintainer. Parasitic draw becomes a non-issue with a clean 3 ampere battery maintainer providing 14.4 to 14.7 peak volts continously to the battery and system.

There's just not enough evidence in his video to support going out and buying a battery with 120 RC.

Take care.

Last edited by Beau67; 02-21-2013 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:20 AM   #18
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As I'm still the original owner of my 03Z (currently 21K miles) which left the dealer new with 0.4 miles and a AC Delco Professional 120 RC battery, always maintained with a "Battery Tender", I have gone through two Column Lock bypasses untill finally disabled and currently working on only my second battery...........and second battery tender.

Figures, it would be just my luck it only occurs to Torch Red Z's
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:51 PM   #19
C908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjsz06 View Post
Then it must be about time for my WalMart EverStart MAXX 78S battery to die. Purchased 3/16/2010...
I had a Walmart EverStart and it leaked acid, as a result $2,000.00 damage and 9 months to settle. If I were you I would pull that battery out asap, why chance it.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #20
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I am very happy with my optima... It is 5 years old.
It goes dead every winter, since I don't seem to put it on a tender. Works fine every spring.
Oldest one is 7 about years old.

Fit just fine in my 2000.
No weird issues...

I will only buy Optima and currently have about 3 of them. Sold one recently.

Before I get yelled at, I will put the vette on a tender. Battery was in a 78 Camaro.
I only used the car to race and did not care. It was in storage in a place without electricity.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:22 PM   #21
RMB97LS1
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Beau nailed this in his first post. Get a battery tender or similar device and use it faithfully!
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beau67 View Post
The C5's unfortunately have a major wiring harness and electronics directly under the battery tray and I heard too many stories of leaking battery acid causing major and costly damage.
I spent the day cleaning up and painting the frame because the PO let his battery leak.
I also had to replace the vacuum lines under there. They fell apart when I touched them.

I put a red top in the car when I bought it about 3 weeks ago. I have had no issues.
I poored backing soda and water all over that area when I put in the red top. But
I just found time today to take it all apart and clean it properly.

I am not running any battery that could leak. To much down there.
The ecu down there has discoloration from not being treated soon enough.
I hope I don't have future problems.

I absolutely love red tops... I have one that is 5 years old and going strong.
I typically need them with the stereos I like to run. Vet is still stock in that
department for a few more months.

After reading this thread... I will be watching for any electrical issues.
Will be interesting to see. I have just never seen another battery out
perform an Optima.
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