Things I discovered / noticed / learned
The Lone-Star yokes are not anywhere near as good as one would hope. Having to file each spline to get it to fit into the side gear isn't something you would / should have to do.
As far as I can tell, if it wasn't for the "tuned" posi pulling the side gear in farther than stock the LS yokes would have too much gap to the cross pin.
It's call Quality Control or lack of it. Every manufacturer I worked for or serviced when I was a Bridgeport service tech would never let a part out the door unless it was checked and correct
The bearing kit seems like a good idea BUT is probably not the route to go since it doesn't have the full-complement yoke bearings and contains ring-gear bolts you may not use.
Yeah you learned about these. The kits vary from good to poor. The good ones use Timkens, quality seals, good marking compound,gaskets, and correct shims. The majority of the kits are from the same place and just repacked. I use kits that are made to my order and I add in more parts to get the correct ones. I do not by vendor kits.
Polishing the carrier is a PIA and takes hours to do a decent job. Ah yes, you did a good job. Common rebuilders never do this. The ones that claim to polish a posi could do a good job selling snake oil. Just look at the pictures of the work, not what I would claim as polished buy I guess good enough to fool their customers.
Tuning the posi is easy enough once you get the hang of installing the side gears and holding everything in place until you get it transferred to the yoke-in-a-vise and slide one of the spiders in to hold them in placeThe important part of tuning is to seat the clutches and have them balanced between the LH and RH sides. I wonder how well some of the claims of a tuned posi are when I see a spring pack in it.
The old yoke in the vise and two needle bearings is perfect for holding the carrier to work in the posi clutches
Loading the pinion to get a good pattern to check is a PIA without something to put real drag on it. maybe with two people it'd be betterAgain this is something others may not do but it's important and simple methods can be used to create drag. One "caveman" once mentioned I use computer aids to create my patterns, which I course I never had- yet that person has yet to post any the patterns they came up with
The solid sleeve is way less hassle that the crush sleeve... if you have the means of bringing it into spec. Don't know about the ones that use shims I think for the average DIY and shop the stock crush sleeves are better for them to setup. The solids are great but you have to use a surface grinder to really dial them in and not many shops have them. The shims don't help much at all, still have to machine the spacer
Ordering two ground shims from Toms' would be a good idea, I think something like a .0175 and a .0225 could be used to get someone close without access to a grinder Are you referring to pinion shims? If so this is another part that is wrong in many diff kits now. Also a pet peeve for years are shims for 63-66 housings. None of the kits have the correct side shims for these housing yet not one vendor will tell their customer and you can not use the later 67-79 side shims in them
One package of marking grease is lots
Cleanliness is important (lots of brake cleaner and varsol)
And lastly, having access to someone like Gary to run stuff by and verify patterns is a tremendous help.Glad to help, I have coached several guys in Canada now, along with guys in Australia, South Africa,New Zealand, England, France, Italy, Sweden, Norway, Ireland, and every state in the USA. I really enjoy working with corvette guys all over the world. You did a nice job, almost as good as mine-LOL but certainly better then anyone you would be able to buy out there.