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Old 05-09-2014, 04:18 PM   #1
teamo
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body mount replacement

I received all of my pre bent brake and fuel lines for my 75 coupe. I thought I might be able to snake them in but it looks like that will not happen. I have decided to lift the body about 4-6 inches and of course while I am there all new body mount cushions. I looked in the A.I.M. but it still doesn't answer all of my questions. It appears that some of the bolts that have nuts on them (I think the two front mounts or #1 and 5?). The rest of the bolts appear to just thread into the nuts that are caged is that correct? I have read that some people snapped off their caged nuts. If that happens are the cages/nuts replaceable? Do they have to be welded to the frame or are they just bolted into place? I am hoping that everything just comes apart. I have been soaking all of the mounts once or twice a day for about three days now. The right side mount behind the kick panel looks good but the left side was a little rusty. Doesn't look terrible like some pictures I've seen on the site here but I am concerned that I may run into trouble. The rest of the mounts look dry but the bolts don't look too bad. Also, the #4 and #8 bolts face upward and I can just barely see the ends of those bolts from behind the carpet all the way to the back of the interior. Are there any rubber mounts back there inside the car or are the rubber mounts on the bottom only.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:47 AM   #2
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this should give you some background info:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ght=body+mount

with regard to the cage-nuts, yes the cages are welded to the frame and the nut floats around inside the cage to allow for some additional tolerance during assembly.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:26 PM   #3
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Well things are not going smoothly. In fact they are going very poorly. I started to loosen everything up today and it all went very badly. #1 on the right side broke off at the nut. No big deal I just knocked out the bolt with a punch. The #2, #3, and #4 on the right side all just keep spinning. I assume that these are the dreaded cage nuts that are broken loose? On the left side starting at the back the #4 is just spinning. The #3 might be be loose from the nut because it appears to be coming up. It might be spinning the nut or I might just have to persuade it up. Surprisingly the #2 might be okay on that side also. I haven't touched the #1 on the left because I might need someone to hold another wrench from the top but that one is no concern as you can get just cut it off if necessary and knock the bolt free. So where do I go from here?
1. Do I just cut all of the bolt heads off of the mounts that are just spinning with a grinder or recip saw and fix the cage nuts when the body is raised?
2. How are these cage nuts repaired? Do I have to buy a whole new cage and cut off the old one and weld on a new one?
3. Can the nuts in the cage be replaced without removing the cage? 4. What about the #4 cage? That one has me worried. I don't know if I could squeeze into the space behind the seats and replace that cage.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:15 PM   #4
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Sorry to hear things are going poorly. I don't have much to offer in the way of advice here, but I am following this thread with interest since I know I will have to do this job eventually on the 77.

Good luck and stay calm.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:37 PM   #5
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What is the best tool to cut off the bolt heads in tight quarters such as the #2 and #3 bolt heads? I have a roto zip and I could put a steel cut off wheel on it but it might still be tough to get in close to the bolt.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:46 PM   #6
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Dont worry too much about the number 4,s (the rear ones ). Their cage is just riveted to the fibreglass and if its spinning , just cut the head of the bolt off on the bottom and it should all just be able to be lifted out , or driven up with a punch .Thats what i had to do to get mine out.

As for the others , looks like cutting the head off them as well .

I have seen new cage and nuts for sale on one of the vendor sites so getting new units isnt so bad .

Just a matter of marking where the old ones were, which is pretty central over the hole in the chassis were the long bolts (that your fighting with ) protrudes into the frame when its all bolted down
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:53 PM   #7
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Thanks for the help. I am going to move forward and just cut everything off. I am having a hard time visualizing the #4 cage mount. I have read that it can just be driven upwards but will this crack the fiberglass that it is riveted to? Is there any way to replace the cage at the #4 location? I was thinking of picking up an air grinder and a cut off wheel to get in to the tight spaces.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:56 PM   #8
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I had the rear cage nuts spin on mine as well. I cut off the head and drilled out the rivets. This allows the steel mount to drop off the fiberglass. I recall it requires about 3 1/2" of clearance to get the old one out. You can then repair or replace as condition requires.

I replaced mine with new units and riveted them back in. Once disconnected from the frame it was pretty easy.

I can't offer advice on the forward units, mine all came loose with some penetrating oil and working the bolt back and forth.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:41 AM   #9
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#4

I will be replacing #4 on both sides this weekend and will take plenty of pics. I will drill through the rivets and have opted to replace the metal part as well.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:19 AM   #10
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Teamo , if your going to get an air grinder youll find it almost impossible to get a wheel in there ,better off with a die grinder tool to get at the soft alloy rivet heads (whats left of them anyway)

If you number four bolt is spinning then the cage is already torn free of the glass anyway.It was held on with two rivets
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:15 AM   #11
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I saw some cheap air die grinders at Harbor Freight. I've never used one. Do they have a chuck like a drill to put different bits into? Is this similar to a roto zip tool? If my roto zip takes the same type of bits/attachments I might be able to use that.
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:04 AM   #12
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I just stared the same process myself, the #2 part the bolt came apart in my hand, I found what I hope will work out, I found at Walmart. It's called a bolt (Or Nut) splitter I'll send a hyperlink.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_34573_34573
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:25 AM   #13
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Thanks Darryl I like that nut splitter idea. I am going to go out and see if I can find one locally. That might save a lot of hassle trying to grind down the nuts/bolts.
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Old 05-15-2014, 03:10 PM   #14
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I didn't end up buying the nut splitter. I bought a cheap (Harbor Freight) 1/4" die grinder and some carbide tips to grind off the bolt heads. Will try to cut off the bolt heads tomorrow and see where I am at.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:55 AM   #15
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If I am restating the obvious here forgive me.

Die grinder + carbide bits = tiny sharp hot metal fragments exiting the area at high speed. Safety glasses are required!!!

I wear regular glasses and figured that would work fine. NOT, it took two doctors half an hour to get the tiny hooked shaped shard out of my eye. Be safe.......
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