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C3 stock & mini-tub tire size questions

17K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Excidium28 
#1 ·
I'm wanting to do a 19 or 20" rear wheel and 18's on the front of the '72 I'm about to start. I'd love to do a mini-tub and fit 325's like I have on my C4, but, need some advice: What's the largest size tire I can do if I leave the wheel wells stock? What's the thought on doing a mini-tub? Is this something that's easily done w/o screwing up the interior of the car too bad?
 
#4 ·
Haven't picked it up but have a deal in place. I'll post pics soon. Great interior, fresh gel coat, ready for paint. It has the numbers matching engine that runs, but is rough looking. Seems to be a perfect candidate for me to be able to paint it any color I want (I want black and the interior is black so I'm good there) and an LS swap. I'm buying it for $8500...planning on $2500 in paint, $5000 total in drivetrain, $2000 wheels/tires...which will leave me w/a few thousand for odds and ins to stay with-in budget.
 
#9 ·
Mini tub will do you no good until you narrow the frame. The frame just in front of the rear tire is what will limit you, not trailing arms when running any wheel, 18'' or larger. The larges tire you can ran is really a 285, there is a few running 295, but I bet they deal with the tires rubbing more often then not. I am running 18X10 with a 5.5 back space wrapped in 285/40/18. With my setup I still had to narrow the stock steel spring, I went twice as much as I should have, but I haven't had any problems with the spring bolts being at suck an angle.











Sorry I got carried away with the photo's, but as you can see, 285 tires fit quite nicely, any more tire than that will require fender flares, which look very nice, I will be running some at some point.

The car/project you are about to start with sounds like a great place to start, I look forward to seeing your project as it comes together.

Riggs
 
#12 ·
:smackn
Dayum Riggs, that looks NICE!!!
Bone white, no spoiler or nuthin' and the car looks fantastic.

Did I read correctly? 5k budget for drivetrain including LS motor?
I don't know about that. :)
We'll see...I'm seeing LS1's on eBay and Craig's for $2500ish, including trans. I know I'll have to purchase a harness and some mounts and adapters, etc, but I think I can put it all together for $5k. I hope! :)
 
#14 ·
It's a whole lot more than the frame, You'll have to modify the frame and trailing arm pocket, and trailing arm it self, this will all have to be custom made. If you go straight axle, and a four link you could then modify the frame for what ever size tire you would want. I though you were on a tight budget, If you start to modify the frame, I can see your budget triplying already for this build. not many people go to the extent of narrowing the frame, unless they are redesigning the suspension as well.

Really, if you want wider tires than the 285, you really should just install a set of full fender, flares from custom image, this would look great, as all of Josh's glass work does, and you can stick a much wider tire tire on at point. With this car you speak of being in primer, now would be the time to add the fender flares.

Riggs
 
#15 ·
I am indeed in a budget and after hearing your thought it looks like I'm at 285's or flares. I love the look of a car with flares, but the car really has to be sitting right. Thanks for the advice on where to get the flares...I'll check that out now!
 
#16 ·
Here is Jeff's '72 in primer. It is at Custom Image and has the flares installed. I think it looks amazing. I am getting CI flares soon and will have 335/30/18's on the back with stock trailing arms. The only minor mod to the suspension to make room for the wheels was to have the VBP monoleaf cut down a tiny bit just to make sure. Can't remember if it was a 1/4 or 1/2 inch.

 
#17 ·
As Rigg's said- there's a whole lot to move inward to do tubs-

If I'm not mistaken- I think the later C3's can handle wider tires w/o flares- and since you're talking 72- 285's might not work.

On my 71- I'm running 285's on 18 x 9.5 w/ 4.5 BS with offset arms and coilovers PLUS flares-
I could go a little bigger though-but was not able to find the wheels in the right width & offset aka back spacing...w/ out really ramping up my budget...


Richard

Here's what's in the way....


 
#18 ·
Caution -- Frame Mod

Well, that will be the tile of my new thread - but the advance warning fits here for clemsontiger.
The members are right - to go bigger - you'll need to chop the frame.

I'm in the middle (HAH!) of a Body off - Pro-touring/gmachine/cornercarving/track car/sometime dailydriver MOD.
I'm building a whole new rear IRS - wishbone uppers and H-bone lowers, new uprights, etc, etc.

Not meant to be a Hijack - but once you commit to the frame mod -- You won't be driving for a bit!

I'd suggest Flares and you could maybe get by with wheel spacers - and pass on the modified Trailing Arms.
BECAUSE: Once you pull them - who knows what you'll get into next?

Cheers - Jim

BTW - That new thread is more than a few weeks off...
 
#19 ·
Not to mention that just the offset arms ready to go in are a 2k proposition not including labor- shipping and trimming spring etc.

Last time I had my stock arms rebuilt that was an 1800 bill.

Not to be a jerkMethinks you are wayyyyyyy off in the $$ for your car. I think 10k for power train and 8 for suspension (VIP suspension system is 5k-includes rack and pinion conversion- all parts new- shipped and includes labor)is much more realistic. I ended up at 1800 for the front suspension and steering last year.
you don't seem to have a pad for the replace ment of the old stuff to put up with new power?

What about rebuilding the engine, the trans, conversion for trans, driveshaft, cooling system, labor, shipping, flashing and programming the computer etc? :huh:
 
#20 ·
A couple things:

1. Looks like I'm sticking with 285's...I'm just not feeling the flares right now and I'm def not doing the major work you guys are talking about to go inward with the tires.

2. I know all projects tend to go over budget but I'm still thinking I can stay close to budget. Not planning on doing any major suspension or steering upgrades. Since I'm not really adding all that much "new power." Stock the car had 300hp...I'll now be at 345ish...shouldn't need anything major for that little boost in power. The conversion isn't really about power for me anyway, it's about reliablity.

3. I'm now thinking I'm going to keep the TH350 and just bolt the LS1 in front of it which will eliminate any issues transmission and back. Cooling, flashing and harness are all included in the $5k for drivetrain. I know I can get a LS1 for $2500-$3000 (they are a dime a dozen at that price...does that make any sense? lol). That leaves me $2k for the above mentioned items as well as brackets for A/C and engine mounts.
 
#22 ·
I went with NITTO NT05 315/35/17 on a 17" x 11" 3.75" offset which gives me plenty of room under the car for a sway bar and fiberglass spring. I could have gone wider and more offset, but the 315 is the widest tire I could find in a 17" rim size, and I had the wide flares from Custom Image Corvettes, so it was a simple choice.

 
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