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EZ-EFI Muli-Port Retro Fit Kit

5K views 25 replies 3 participants last post by  autowiz 
#1 ·
I'm starting this thread to show the install of a EZ-Efi system from FAST.
Background. I have a 1982 corvette with crossfire injection. I was given this car 2 years ago. It had been sitting in a warehouse for 7 years. Didn't run and owner wanted it gone. I obliged quickly before he changed his mind. Had to completely through the fuel system. Changed all sensors and fluids. Ran good for about 9 months. Then the injection system started screwing up. Was told it would cost about $1500 to fix it. Well I already had a tpi system from a 88 corvette. So I decided to pull the heads, install some aluminum heads, with a standalone wiring harness for maf system. Also got stainless side mont headers too. Got it all hooked up and running. Drove it for about 4 days and valves started ticking. About every 4 days I was having to adjust them. After th third time I decided to change the oil and check it. Sure enough metal shavings.

Pulled the motor and trans. At tear down the cam was toast. Several of the lobes were gone. Figured I'd up it a bit. So ordered strokes kit, new roller cam, and new 700R4 trans.

Got it all back together and running. Great power, getting 19 mpg city driving when I kept my foot out of it. Then one day it started running ruff, motor would die. Fuel pressure was good. But was acting like it was being shut off then back on.

Been wanting a better EFI system so decided to go with the FAST system. So my first step will be to remove the old harness and computer. I will remove it with out cutting as I want to sell it. Got a new distributor and coil to go with the FAST system as it doesn't control the timing. I had a mass air flow system and I'm going to a speed density system as well.

I'll start posting pictures on next update.
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
I had a FAST system on a old bronco. It was before they had self learning systems. I had a problem with it and FAST tech support was a life saver. They have been in business for years and know their stuff. You should really like the new system. Ill be tuning in to see your progress.



:cheers:
Mark
 
#4 ·
I know it is pricey but the dual sync distributor is plug and play and has 2 leds on it to aid in setting it up and detailed instructions.Timing control from the handheld is a valuable feature to have.

The universal kit will come with a nice fuel pressure regulator, A fuel pressure sensor and piece to mount the sensor in. It also comes with a solid state relay. The smart way to setup your fuel system is to plug the return line. A rubber cap for the return at the tank is ok, But the return at the rail needs to be capped in a manner that will hold back high fuel pressure. Mount the fuel pressure sensor in line between the rail and the filter. And wire the pump to the solid state relay and the fuel pump will only spin fast enough to build the commanded pressure. The best feature about returnless fuel systems and pwm fuel pumps is how quiet they are and how much longer they last and how much less power they consume. And there is no need for the included regulator.

And now when you get bored, you can experiment with running a higher fuel pressure. and maybe advance your total time 2 degrees and see how she reacts. or adjust the all in rpm to 500rpm sooner. And you can easily play around with making your car run better without ever getting dirty or even opening the hood.
 
#5 ·
Had to go back a bunch of pages, but here is fast going into an 81:

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255809

There are pictures of how I modified the fuel sender.(got a sender for a 82 crossfire and swapped the pump. easy and factory correct install. And an idea for a place to mount the controller, maybe. Your retrofit kit is the same as this kit just without the throttle body.
 
#6 ·
Well got the tpi wiring harness completely out. Didn't have to cut any wires.

Took the plenum off to remove wiring, set the distributor at the number one position and made sure the timing marks were at zero. Started installing new EZ-EFI harness. This system is different than the 2.0 system. I plan to get it running, setup, and leave it alone. So I didn't need the extras.

Plan to locate the ECU on the passenger side right above AC system under the hood. This should make an ideal location as its close to where my O2 sensor is. Got the new coil and distributor installed just need to wire it up.

Got to find where my fuel pump relay is located and where the fuel pump power wire is. I believe the power wire in located in the center console. I think the rest is pretty simple.

I'm traveling the next 2 weeks so it might be s few weeks before I get her running.
 

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#7 ·
Back at it. Been traveling and have not had time to work on project.

I'm finishing up the install. I have to connect the wires to the battery, connect the AC wire, find a 12v supply when key on, connect the fuel pump power and the fan relay.

On the fan wiring, where should I connect it? I thought I could connect it to the ground switch that as previous there. I guess I could just ground the wire and have the fan run all the time. The switch I have is suppose to turn on at 185. I got it from midamerica corvettes.

The fuel pump wire I got but there is a connector for a fuel pump relay. But I got no relay. Do I need one?
 
#8 ·
It is always better to use the controller for intelligent fan control. the controller has a temp sensor and you can program on and off temps and change them as you desire. and the controller outputs should always be wired to relays.

185 degree turn on ensures that the fan motor will run a 100% duty cycle. While if your cooling capacity is sufficient you can keep your fuel injected motor at this temp, it puts added stress and strain on your charging system and battery and fan motors and relay contacts. 210f is a happy number and a very realistic goal to shoot for. with the fast controller driving your fans, you can play with this. maybe have the fans come on at 210 and off at 200. This way the fans at least can have a chance to turn off here and there. You will also get better gas mileage at this temp and enjoy a longer living engine that is capable of cooking moisture out of it's crankcase.
 
#9 ·
I am not familiar with the first gen fast stuff but the 2.0 controller has 2 fan outputs. If you have 2 fan outputs on your controller I can help you setup low and high speeds with 2 fans. This will drastically cut down on the voltage spike when the fans power on as they will only come on half speed first.
 
#10 ·
check out this diagram..


The idea is to bring the 2 fans on together in series. you know ground from 1 fan goes into power of the other. Each fan only gets 6v and comes on at 1/2 speed. Then when relays 2 and 3 are energized both fans get a full 12v. This is a factory diagram for the fan circuit in my 2000 corvette. It is brilliant. And once wired this way, you will set on temp for fan 1 at like 200 and off at 190 and set fan 2 on at 210 and off at 200. This way you will always have low speed airflow going when the car is warm. Instead of cycling on and off and watching lights flicker to it's beat.
 
#11 ·
From what I can tell the 82 Vettes didn't have a fan relay. I've got the wiring diagram and it does not show a fan relay or a fuel relay.

I have searched everywhere but can not figure where to run these 2 wires.

The 82 Vettes only have one fan. It has to wires coming off of it. I'm going to have to trace these wires and see where they go.

As for the fuel pump relay wire I'm stumped. I can't find a relay and it's not on the wiring diagram.
 
#12 ·
There was a relay for the fuel pump in 1982. It should be in the rear compartment across from battery. The fan got ignition power and was grounded directly by the temp switch in the RH cylinder head.

Both of these control circuits are a very early design and will not support the current flow required for today's fuel pumps and fans
 
#13 ·
Ok found the fuel pump relay on the wiring diagram. Know to figure out which wire to go to. So if anyone knows chime in.

It seems I also need a rpm module, so I'll have to order that tomorrow.

Not sure what I need to do on the fan. Since there is no relay for it. Car doesn't start to run high temps unless I'm in heavy traffic during the Houston summer heat.
 
#14 ·
Well I talked to Fast and they explained how to set up the fan. Should be easy.

But I have an issue with the fuel pump. Seems when I pulled the original wiring harness the fuel pump relay was taken out. I put a aftermarket standalone wiring harness for the tpi. It only needed a wire going to the positive side of the fuel pump. So now I have no fuel pump relay.

Any suggestions?

Figure now I'm going to have to either get the relay from Fast or rewire what I have.
 
#15 ·
get a standard generic 30/40amp relay and pigtail. pin assignment should be as follows:

pins 85 & 86 are the coil or primary side or control side of the relay. these should be wired to ignition power on one side and the fast controller fuel pump output on the other side.

pin 30 should goto your fuel pump +

pin 87a for now you will leave blank. this is the normally closed pin of the relay and when there is no power to the relay coil this pin has continuity with pin 30.

pin 87 will goto a 20amp fuse and to battery power.

 
#16 ·
That's basically the same thing I'm doing for the fan relay. I was hoping that would be the way it worked. I should still be able to keep the relay in the battery compartment. Hope to get it running this weekend. But. Have to replace the exhaust system on my truck now so depends on how fast I get that done.
 
#17 ·
Well it's been a long time coming but I finally had time to get her running. Programmed the unit. Started up, set the timing to 6 degrees. Idles great. Set idle to 700. If I give it any gas the motor shuts off. I can crack the throttle a hair and it will act like it has no gas. But I can get it to race up but it takes going slowly then I can goose it. If I go back to idle and give it any gas it dies.

I've tried reprogramming it. Fuel pressure is 42-44psi. All vacuume lines have been checked.
 
#18 ·
Well I am curious about your ignition system. I see no vacuum advance canister on your distributor. If your distributor has mechanical advance only and it is regulating ignition timing, then your base timing needs to come up to like 12-15 btdc. Also the MSD distributors all come with incredibly heavy springs attached to the weights under the rotor and a selection of different weight springs in a bag. If this is what you have then you need to have the lighter springs installed or middle of the road at least but not the boost friendly garage door opener springs that come on the msd Dizzy's.



Or is vacuum advance removed, mechanical advance locked out, and you have the ecu controlling ignition timing and you have set all that up in the controller?
 
#26 ·
Then I would focus on verifying ignition timing is right. Also now that you have a handheld controller you can use data to help you. Aside from afr you can look at your map sensor. how much vacuum is your engine achieving? You should be playing with fuel and ignition timing to get as much vacuum at an idle as you can. Or the lowest kpa reading possible out of your map sensor. As the tune gets better and the motor gets stronger it fights harder to get air out of the restricted iac valve and this is what drives up the manifold vacuum. Try changing your commanded afr .5 in each direction and compare results on map sensor. If you made an improvement then the map reading will drop at idle because the motor is running stronger.
 
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