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1970 Roadster LS7 Conversion

155K views 753 replies 44 participants last post by  JustinEntropyRad 
#1 ·
Hey, looking to gather some insight on the swap I am doing. Starting with a 1970 300HP, 4 speed car and converting over to C4 suspension and LS power. Tips and tricks from anyone who has done this swap are welcome and appreciated.

My budget for this build is $50K, so have to watch the dollars carefully to make it fit. Starting off with Street Shop frame, purchased from a cancelled project. C4 suspension was new but had Dana 36 rear end. Pulled that out, sourced and modified a Viper Dana 44 and installed that with billet half shafts and batwing.

TKO 600 5 speed and centerforce dyad dual disc clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly purchased. 700hp Mast Motorsports Black Label LS7 on order. Supposed to be dyno'd and broke in this weekend. Should have it here by September 7 or so. OH Yea!

Headers are the current problem. Speedhound when still in business sponsored a 1-3/4" set from Melrose, unfortunately the LS7 runs much better with the 1-7/8" units. No one I can find actually makes a 1-7/8" set other than the frame manufacturer, but at $2k they are priced above what budget can handle. I am working with a Melrose dealer who indicates there is growing interest in the 1-7/8" LS C3 application. Who knows? Anyone have any experience discovering another application that will work?

More photos to come as the project progresses.
 

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#6 ·
That is going to be one awesome car when done.

I wonder if there is any information on what is required to put the C4 suspension peices on the C3 chassis. I know you purchased the chassis already modified.

I can get my hands on C4's really cheap these days. I would love to drop some weight off the front of my 72 with aluminum control arms, a coil-over suspension, and a rack & pinion steering system from a C4.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Front Suspension

I have seen a couple of stock frames converted, done by individuals but nothing in kit form. It worked but no way to tell how well without pushing it and I understand any owners reluctance to having someone else run their car hard. I didn't even ask. I felt it was important to go with the aftermarket frame to get the C4 suspension designed into the structure. It was lighter, stronger and offered more clearance than a stock frame.

You might call Tray at Street Shop and ask if he has anything. Jody at Vettaid also might know of something.
 
#8 ·
I have seen a couple of stock frames converted, done by individuals but nothing in kit form. It worked but no way to tell how well without pushing it and I understand any owners reluctance to having someone else run their car hard. I didn't even ask. I felt it was important to go with the aftermarket frame to get the C4 suspension designed into the structure. It was lighter, stronger and offered more clearance than a stock frame.

You might call Tray at Street Shop and ask if he has anything. Jody at Vettaid also might know of something.
how much was your frame?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Nice setup, I will be following this build. As far as headers, some have used standard big block headers (1 7/8) cut off the header flange and welded on LS headed flanges, Not sure if this helps you. I bought My LS headers from vette aid, I believe they are 1 3/4, in any case they are the same size as the exhaust ports on my 225 TF heads, so the motor should breathe pretty good.

What is you build time for this project, or is this build as you have time?

Riggs
 
#11 ·
Frame cost and build timing.

I purchased the frame as part of a complete chassis, but I believe the frames are available bare at roughly $5600. I haven't priced checked them in over a year so perhaps a quote is a good idea.

Consider that you will likely pay half that to have a fab shop do the front end and it comes into perspective pretty fast.

I am doing the work myself in my home shop. It is more of a build as I have the $ than time although most of the large purchases are done now. I am building this one for myself so no deadline or customer waiting. Hope to have on the road spring-summer next year.

I hadn't thought of replacing the flange on a BB header set but great idea! Might even be able to go 2" with that setup. How did the spacing on the holes of the LS flange match the BB pipes?
 
#12 ·
I've not done it, but from what I have read you will have to spread the primary's just a bit to line up with the LS pattern, I'm told it's no big deal. A good time to fit the big block headers would be while the body is still off the frame so you can align them how you would want them to fit, and then be able to tac weld the headers to the flange while its still on the car. I would think that would be the easiest.
You might even be able to pick up a used, fairly new set of big block headers for cheap on ebay or craigs list to keep the cost down even more.

Riggs.
 
#13 ·
Headers

Thanks so much for the idea, I will go that route if the other doesn't work out. Got word just this afternoon from Jody at Vettaid, he is going to have Melrose make up some sets of 1-7/8" units. There is a minimum order so there will be a few sets left over but just a few. If you want a pair give him a shout soon. Price is undetermined but is expected to be slightly higher than the 1-3/4" units he currently offers.

When I get mine I will post a photo.
 
#14 ·
I sure wish GM had used something to designate the LS motors other than "LS". Everytime I see a thread with "LS7" in it, I get all excited. I'm thinking it's a real LS-7 as in 454/460 BB type thing.
 
#17 ·
Nothing personal guys... and with ALL due respect...

If you are not talking 2 1/2 or 3 inch flow off the block, and continuing throughout .... then what the crap is power built upon?

For every pound of compression... there has to be an equatable release .... but only in moderation!

But then again... another LS motor ... and its less then 10:1...

Good Luck with your Build.
 
#19 ·
Dyno on the LS7 is completed.

Dyno completed last week, engine to ship on Wednesday. Yea!!! Can't wait............

Mast indicated this engine was rated at 700hp, the dyno sheet I saw showed 702hp. This particular engine came in at 690hp. Perhaps some bragging rights lost but I am quite sure the difference won't be noticeable on the street.

Not sure how this vehicle could put that much power to the ground anyway. Don't think it will weigh enough, with the all aluminum engine, chassis and drive train parts. Expecting somewhere around 2200lbs wet.

Any suspension experts out there know how to make it hook up with the pavement? I already know how to heat the tires. :laughing:
 

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#21 ·
Build Updates,

Engine shipping now delayed, reasons all seem legitimate but frustrating just the same. Headers scheduled to ship next week. VettAid has a limited number of LS to C3 headers with 1 7/8" tubes if anyone is interested.

Upgraded to J55 HD (13") brakes, added drilled and slotted rotors. Glad I did this, there is quite a difference in the rotors. Both in the obvious diameter as well as thickness. I can understand how this upgrade would make a noticeable difference in braking power. Parts needed are the calipers, mounting brackets and rotors. I opted for the pre 96 calipers as they were less expensive. They bolted right up on existing spindles. My calipers came loaded with brakes pads and caliper pins, don't forget those pieces if purchased as separate parts.

Post photos of all once I have something to photograph. What is that whining noise? :laughing:
 
#24 ·
Bellhousing Fitted and runout checked.

The Quicktime scattershield was spot on. Set the dial indicator at .0000 at 9:00 rotated to 6:00, .0002, rotated to 3:00 .0002, rotated to 12:00, .0001 and back to 9:00 at .0000. This was repeatable plus or minus .0001 at each station. Maximum difference top to bottom add .0002 and point .0001 and divide by 2. Total runout was .00015. Maximum allowable of .0004

Pretty good job Quicktime, no offset pins needed.
 

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#25 ·
Time for the Centerforce DYAD Clutch.

The flywheel to crankshaft tolerance is a tight slip fit. I had to use the bolts to seat it up. Did about half a turn each as I worked around and around until tight. Then removed added blue thread locker and torqued.

Pilot bearing installed and ready for clutch. Transmission install likely next weekend if not before.

Headers due to ship sometime next week. I keep you posted.
 

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