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Bingo, fixed it for ya'. :thumbsup:... Could this be a headlight control module, replay, or bad ground issue, or could I have put it back together wrong (left out parts, etc...)? I hope someone can help me figure this out! Thank you!
That's why you need the service manual. You can't trouble-shoot electrical problems with this car unless you know for a fact, what is connected to what. You don't know the history of your car OR the technical ability of the previous owners. I seen some hack-ass repairs done to these cars by people who couldn't afford them or people who didn't car because they were going to sell it. You could be a victim of both so you need the service manual so that you can check things out properly.Hi Junkman2008...
I do apologize for the lapse in my response, but an unforeseen event caused me to be unable to deal with my car until now. I very much appreciate any advice you can give me to fix this issue.
To answer your questions, the fuses I checked were under the hood, and the plastic cover indicated which fuses where for the fog lights. I have checked every fuse under the hood and in the passenger foot well with a test light, and they are all good. I was not sure if there was a known relation of the fogs lights not working intermittently and my headlight issue.
Not even close. A Tech II is a diagnostic tool capable of reading data about the car directly from the on-board computers. Data like misfires and idle rate, cam position and host of other stuff. The Tech II can send commands such as raising a headlight and lowering it. It is the tool that GM technicians use to trouble-shoot problems with your car, IF they know what they are doing.I am sorry for the dumb question, but what is a Tech II? I have a friend with a scanner that can pull codes. Is this the same thing?
With all that said, I'm going to send you right back to the work you did on the headlights. As I posted earlier, the bump stops can easily affect this problem. You never did address that suggestion that I posted months ago. Did you follow that advice? Also, as Vettmann17 posted, now I'm curious about the battery in your car. Exactly who's battery is in your car and what are the CCA and the RC values?I thought at one point that the multifunction switch may be causing the issue of the lights going up instead of down, but from what I read, the multifunction switch is completely bypassed electrically when the twilight setting is set to "on", so it should not affect the headlights from closing properly. Do you know if this is correct or not? Also, I have done countless hours of searching, and I cannot find anyone with this same problem. Of course, I find many people that have issues with the lights not going down, but no one stating that they go up when turned off.
Where did I say that? I don't remember saying that???As you mentioned before, if one of the lights were burned out, the bucket would remain open when turned off.
The bulbs don't have anything to do with the bucket operation.If there was a short in the bulb itself, would that cause the buckets to stay open?
Answered above. Now YOU need to make sure that you answer EVERY question that I asked in my post. So before you hit the post button, ensure that EVERY question is answered.Do you know if ONE of the bulbs were burned out, would it cause BOTH buckets to stay open or just the ONE bucket with the bulb out? I just cant seem to figure out what would make the motor run in reverse like this, and I hope that you can help me figure this out! Thank you in advance!
Finally, some information that helps. They lied to you. The battery needs to be 700 CCA's and 120 RC. You have the wrong battery in your car. I thought so when I heard that crappy name brand. What you should have is an AC Delco Professional 78-6YR. I've seen them online for as cheap as $112.The CCA is 650. I had mentioned it on my 5/8/13 post. I was told that the car needed a battery rated at 600 or above when I bought it.
I understand exactly what your lights are doing. I also know that this type of behavior is very typical of worn bump stops. That's what I suggested earlier in this thread and that's what Paul (C4C5Specialist), suggested on CAC's forum. Paul is a world class GM technician. He's the E.F. Hutton of Corvette knowledge. He's thinking the same thing I am. So let me make sure that you have done the following.First, thank you so much for taking the time to post this information.
I am far from an expert, so please correct me if I am wrong...Based on what you sent me, the open versus close functions are controlled by a reverse in polarity. What I still do not understand is what is confusing the module into NOT switching the polarity intermittently when I turn the lights off, causing them to re-open instead of close. I know that I have said this before, but I want to make it clear that my issue is NOT that they wont close intermittently, but they are staying up because the motors are running in the up direction instead of down, hence they are staying up. For example, with the engine running and the lights on and open, I can manually lower the buckets a few inches, and then when I turn the car off, they open fully, instead of going down. If I sit in the car when they are behaving like this, I can toggle the twilight switch or the headlight switch on and off, and they will eventually start working properly again. When I dont have time to play with them like this, I will drive around and when I turn off the car, they will work properly sometimes, and not other times. PLEASE confirm that we are on the same page, as others I explain this issue to are not understanding what I am describing.
Whether or not the battery will fix the problem is not the issue. The issue is, you have the WRONG battery in your car according to what GM recommends. So if it will fix the problem or not still does not address the fact that you are running the wrong battery. You at least need to have the correct battery in the car just so you can eliminate it from the equation and any future issues.Now, as far as the battery issue is concerned, before I go to war with Walmart or have to spend $120 on a new battery, I need to be sure a new battery will fix this problem. As far as I understand, the CCA rating only applies to starting the car, and the RC rating is how long the battery will run the car if the alternator stops working. Otherwise, the alternator charges the battery while the car is running which supplies a 12 volt current to the accessories of the car. I called the battery manufacturer again to question if this is the incorrect battery for my car, and when I explained to them my issue, they stated that they have sold 1000's of batteries for this car and have never had any complaints similar to my issue. Please understand that I am not questioning your conclusion that the AC/Delco battery will fix my issue, but I need to make sure before I try to get my money back or put out additional money for a new battery.
Here's how you verify that the Multifunction Turn Signal Lever is eliminated when the Twilight Sentinel is engaged. Turn the Twilight Sentinel ON while parked in a dark place or at night. The headlights should raise. Next, turn the Multifunction Turn Signal Lever to the full on position. Then, either drive the car into direct sunlight or shine a bright light into the Twilight Sentinel, located on top the dash pad. If the lights go out and the buckets drop, guess what you have just proven? Easy as pie.Also, I have asked this question several times and no one seems to have the answer...Is the headlight switch completely bypassed when the twilight is set to "on" or does it still have an affect on the headlight system? If it is bypassed, then at least I can rule out the switch causing the problem.
It has been known to cause various issues, this one in particular would not surprise me. Basically, they can go bad but are not a very high fail rate part. You can only test one with a scan tool like the Tech II.Lastly, can the headlight control module cause this malfunction?
The BCM stands for "Body Control Module". It is located in the passenger's footwell area behind a close out panel.I see the BCM on the chart you sent me on the right side of the page. Is this the BCM in the passenger footwell or is this the headlight control module?
No. According to the service manual, this is a normal software function as long as the DTCs have a history status upon ignition cycling. No repair attempts should be made. Yours are showing history (H).Also, did you have a chance to review the codes I pulled and posted last week? Do you think they are related to my issue?
No problem.I am sorry for the long post, but I am just getting frustrated that I am still dealing with this issue (and a 8 month old pregnant wife!) Again, I very much appreciate your help and look forward to your response.
My bad, I've been working on too many issues today. The description of the circuit I gave you explains everything about the BUCKETS. You should refer to it. There's a different document for the electrical part of the circuit.No, I mean the BCM (Body Control Module) in the passenger footwell. It is on the schematic you sent me on the right side. I was just wondering what part it played in the headlight system and if it could cause this issue.
No. That test tell me nothing.Also, what do you think about the test I did with the buckets removed? Does this rule out any mechanical error (bumper stops, bucket alignment)?
If a turn signal or running light bulb blows, the lights on that side of the car will begin to hyperflash (flash very rapidly when you use the turn signal). The headlights don't do anything. So no, the car is not trying to send you smoke signals. That's what the DTC's are for.I asked this question a few times earlier in my post, and no one has answered it. Does my car have a feature where if one of the bulbs are blown out, will the headlights open or stay open to warn the driver to change the bulb? The only reason I ask is because if this feature exists, it is doing the exact same thing that my headlight are doing, except for the fact that the bulbs are good. In that case, is there a possibility that the headlights are sending a false signal to the computer to cause this same thing to happen?