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This is the electric light conversion I was talking about

54K views 222 replies 37 participants last post by  slofut 
#1 ·
Who does this car belong to? Nice setup, this is what I plan to do.

 
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#174 ·
If anyone has emailed me about brackets to the mcouey @ marshallexcelsior dot com address and not gotten a response, I apologize. I forgot to post here that I changed jobs, so I no longer have that email address nor is is associated with my paypal account.

I set up a new 'portable' email address that can be used for questions/orders/correspondence about brackets. It's also the default address for the same paypal account as before.

As far as I know, the next batch should be back from the laser shop bent and ready to go by the end of next week.
 
#186 ·
Those arms are already on the Probe motors. At least my pair had them. If you bought a set without them that means the people who pulled the parts took the arms off the motors. It's a Probe specific part, though speed shops sett similar arms for custom throttle linkages and such.
 
#204 ·
Probe and Maita motors are just different enough to require re-drilling all three holes w/ the pre-made brackets that were fashioned off my deck post mount...

The Bosch relay aka Tyco is rated at 30a and technically refereed to as a SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw and has 5 pins.

I have a way to wire the relay w/o going to the headlight switch- wire it at the headlights - just needing a power source and a ground. If there's an interest- I'll draw it out.

Realistically how much would you pay??? The guys selling a kit for the Ford cougar are almost $600- motors-bracket-rod-harness...Not that different from a Corvette kit EXCEPT you still have to modify the headlight surround bracket.... If you look back at post #3- originally I spent about $78 for my parts and homemade bracket....
Thoughts?

Richard

 
#209 ·
Pricing...That'll be tough to sell w/o any margin...say less than $300


OK...to do it right- the harness would have to use a Probe or Miata connector-weatherproofed...make a male/female plug to go between the headlight bulb and factory harness and have a relay socket. Having it made in VOLUME-100 piece would probably be at least $50-60... So you are looking at about a c note DEAD cost-
relay/harness/rods/ends/brackets...instructions- could do electronically...oh- add packaging. Where to sell- this Forum- but NOT the other one!!!! Run it through one of the many Corvette retailers...returns... etc...they'd have to be at least $300 w/o motors.... the reseller would have to make some money.....Just saying....

Anyway here's the diagram as promised-don't be afraid of a diode...wire it up wrong - worst thing that could happen is the headlights go down when you hit the high beam- or vise versa...


Richard

 
#210 ·
The wire in the connector from the car for the motors I got used tiny wires and much larger on the side with the motor. I wanted to use the factory sealed connector but figured the wire wouldn't hold the amperage.
 
#211 ·
Here's what I got, and they're working well. I'm not done with the mounting or anything yet, but it's all wired up so I thought I'd share what I did.

The open and close wires depend on how you mount the motors. Just mock them up and test each trigger wire to see which one goes which way. If it's not the way you want, just switch them.

I have mine to open with the parking lamps. That's because I'm doing LED halos with the parking lamps. If that doesn't work for you, Richard454 suggested other ways in an earlier post. I'm happy to share the diagrams for the halos, lows, and highs, too.

I'm not an electrician, so go easy on me if I used the wrong images for the motors or whatever.

 
#212 ·
My current vacuum setup has my headlight switch operating only the headlights and marker system. The pop up is controlled by the vacuum override. Basically, I manually put up my headlights and manually drop them with the override switch.

The reason I did that was because I installed halo headlights years ago and since they are useless with the headlights illuminated, I wanted a way to get the headlights up without turning them on. The vacuum override was a factory installed way I could do that.

Since my halos are on their own switch too, I can raise and lower the headlights, turn on the halos, and turn on the headlights...all independently.

With these motors, I am just going to put an electric switch in place of the vacuum override, so I can maintain the same control with the electric motors instead of vacuum actuators.
 
#213 ·
Good idea. The way mine will work is the first pull, just the markers, will pop the doors open and the halos and markers will be on. Next pull is the low beams, so the outside beams will be on and the inside halos still showing. The outside beam halos are still on, too. Pointless, I know, but I decided to just deal with it.

Then the foot switch for the highs still. I didn't want to run anything to the cabin. So mine will still have the halos on with the headlights, but I can run the parking beams position and have just the halos on, so I'm satisfied enough with that on mine.
 
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