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KingC6 · 09-26-2009, 11:00 AM

Hey guys, never thought I'd own a c4, but I just bought a 94 aqua blue with 115,000 miles on it. Anyway some questions are...is the passive key entry light supposed to stay on all the time? I parked it for a few mintues and came back and the battery was dead. Also the one headlight is flimsy and won't pop up, I'm assuming that the headlight motor will need to be replaced? I'm sure ill have more questions but thanks in advance!

KingC6 · 09-26-2009, 11:58 AM

Well I got it home but for some reason something is killing the battery real quick, have no idea what it is

lt14life · 09-26-2009, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

Well I got it home but for some reason something is killing the battery real quick, have no idea what it is

Ok the headlight problem is most likley the plastic gear inside that should be replaced with the bronze gear, I bought mine through Ecklers & thats only if your Motor is spinning. The PKE Light should not be lit all the time, Do you have the service Tech Mannuals ?? I bought mine on Ebay for about $125 its the best money you will spend for your C-4 Repairs I had some V.A.T.S. problems and the books guided me all the way through the repair, trust me you will need the two books for all repairs and trouble shooting .

KingC6 · 09-26-2009, 03:21 PM

Yeah the headlight motor still spins so Ill order that bronze gear, what was the name of your repair manual?

cortlandfire · 09-26-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

Well I got it home but for some reason something is killing the battery real quick, have no idea what it is

mine just started doing the same thing, and the manual does not cover how to turn it off with out the remote, i do not have one(remote).

lt14life · 09-26-2009, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

Yeah the headlight motor still spins so Ill order that bronze gear, what was the name of your repair manual?

1994 Corvette OEM Shop Service Manuals Book 1 & 2 . they cover everything including, PKE, & all VATS Repair. Go to EBay and check them out.

LannyL81 · 09-26-2009, 07:19 PM

Get the plastic bushings along with the bronze gear as it is most likely just the plastic bushings that have worn down. The busings cost about $5....not sure about the gear.

As far as the battery drain. 0.14mA is pretty low...probably the radio memory, nothing to worry about.

The passive key entry light should not stay on, something is wrong there.

Get the two manuals....they are worth it for troubleshooting these cars.

KingC6 · 09-26-2009, 11:01 PM

i had the battery tested and it was ok, the passive key light stays on all the time, when your driving etc..only way i found to turn it off was to turn the car off, take the key out and put it back in then take key out, but then the battery still dies. it went from 13 to 9 volts in about 5 minutes.

KingC6 · 09-27-2009, 12:10 AM

i dont know if this matters, but the previous owner installed a relay or something to keep the fans running when the cars running.also i was looking into removing the VATS system because i think thats my problem with the whole not starting thing, is that a good idea or not?

cortlandfire · 09-27-2009, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

i had the battery tested and it was ok, the passive key light stays on all the time, when your driving etc..only way i found to turn it off was to turn the car off, take the key out and put it back in then take key out, but then the battery still dies. it went from 13 to 9 volts in about 5 minutes.

i got my light off by changing the fuses in the pek and radio-ign ,my light would not go off any time, i did the fuses and put the key in and turned it to start and the light stayed off,

bloodmanic · 09-27-2009, 05:09 PM

if the fans arnt always running then that shouldnt be the problem. i have the same thing on both my c4's. it only comes on when that switch is on and when the key is on.

mikec4c5 · 09-27-2009, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

i dont know if this matters, but the previous owner installed a relay or something to keep the fans running when the cars running.also i was looking into removing the VATS system because i think thats my problem with the whole not starting thing, is that a good idea or not?

Here are the instrucions for reseting your PKE system. Try to disable if you believe that this is your source of battery drain(have you checked your alternator ?) :

FWIW, I have an anomoly with my PKE system on my '94. When I turn the engine off, I have to reach over and open/close the passenger door to turn off interior lights/radio. I thought it was my driver door switch and replaced it. This was not the problem. So for now, I deal with it. Everyting else with the PKE works as designed...

mikec4c5 · 09-27-2009, 07:01 PM

You can also retrieve some PKE errors from the PKE lamp itself. To retrieve your PKE DTC's (via the the blinking "passive keyless entry' lamp, the ignition key must be IN the ignition BUT in the OFF position, and then you can use the old paper-clip method and jump (ground) pin # 8 (top right most) to a ground pin #4.

Unfortunately, there are only 6 codes that can be detected :

12 - receiver memory bad
13 - transmitter not in range
14 - non-valid transmitter received

15 - valid transmitter received
16 - passenger door buttton depressed
17 - hatch button depressed

As you will notice, the first 3 display 'current state' of the system, whereas the last 3 require a working transmitter.

FYI, the system does not store DTC's nor do they need to be cleared.

However, all that said, more often than not, the problems with PKE are either:

1. it's turned-off (see owners manual for turn-on instructions or my earlier post)
2. door switches are stuck/sticking/electrical malfunction (can use 'door ajar' or CCM diagnostic mode to test)
3. door key switch sensor is out-of-sync (use key to unlock door sometimes resets)
4. remote's internals are dirty (wake-up ball-bearing inside the metal housing is dirty) -- take apart gently and clean. (you can hear the little ball bearing rolling around if you gently shake the transmitter near your ear)

Your '94, although it is OBDI , should have the OBDII style 16 connector as shown below :

mikec4c5 · 09-27-2009, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingC6

Yeah the headlight motor still spins so Ill order that bronze gear, what was the name of your repair manual?

More times than not, it is usually the 3 nylon bushings that fit inside the nylon gear that go bad. Over the years, if your delrin bushings are original, they will probably look like the ones in photo #14 in the following DIY thread :

http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html

GM used crappola delrin bushings so that when the headlamp goes to full travel up and full travel down, it would not make a "clunk" sound. The bushings they sell now are nylon, which handles the pressures from the armature much much better, I think the beonze gear is overkill in this application....IMHO

And don't get those hollow bushings that Ecklers sells, as they will collapse...ask me how I know.......OK..... I removed a collapsed set of those hollow bushings after I purchased my '94 last year. Anyway, you can also purchase the solid bushing in the "Help" section at Autozone and/or Advance for ~$4. These are common size bushings, and are also use on Ford or Dodge window regulators. They come in a pack of 3.

KingC6 · 09-29-2009, 12:23 PM

thanks for the responses guys , i changed the bushings and gears in the headlights and they work now, also the battery hasnt been dieing, i think because i put the key back in the ignition after i turn it off, as for the fans it looks like the previous owner installed soem type of relay on the fans so that they run whenever the car is running regardless of temp. Is it bad for the fans to run all the time or no?