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Old 12-07-2009, 06:46 AM   #1
vetteset8087
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Swapping a Dana 36 to 44

I know this question has been asked a million times here but here it goes again. My car is an 87 The Dana 44 I have is a 92 from what I understand I just need to swap the center section, the bat wing,the part that goes from the diff to the trans and have my drive shaft shortened is this right? I leave my Dana 36 half shafts in right ? Both the Dana 36 and the 44 are complete rear ends so I should have all of the parts I need. is there any way to tell for sure what gears are in the Dana 44 ? the guy I got it from said it was out of a 92 6 speed car with 3:45 gears the stickers on the half shaft say they are 92 it has a tag on the drain plug but it just says use limited slip lube or something like that and it is a Dana 44. I checked the gears before I bought it by rotating the input yoke and watching how far the rotors rotated but it was awhile since I did this and not sure I did it right. Is there any markings on the outside or a way that would tell me the gear ratio for sure? without taking the cover off
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:27 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by vetteset8087 View Post
from what I understand I just need to swap the center section, the bat wing,the part that goes from the diff to the trans and have my drive shaft shortened is this right?
Can save $$$ by redrilling D36 C beam and using D36 DS
See
http://www.joby.se/corvette/mods/2001-0X11_diff/

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Both the Dana 36 and the 44 are complete rear ends so I should have all of the parts I need.f
Will need to use the late bottom camber arms and brackets that mount to the diff head as mounting bolts are larger in the diff head

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. is there any way to tell for sure what gears are in the Dana 44 ? Is there any markings on the outside
Late model diffs have the ratio ( assuming it hasn't been changed ) stamped underneath the diff head .Counting how many times the pinion yoke turns to one side yoke rev will get you close
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:20 PM   #3
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I already have he D44 c brace. I Have the stock D36 driveshaft and it's aluminum. Only 1 place in town can shorten them and they want $150 to do it I think that's a rip off. After reading a couple posts found the markings on the case it says 3:45 I came up with 3:45 by checking it and the guy I bought it from said it was a 3:45 so I think I can trust that it's a 3:45. Are the bottom camber arms the aluminum dog bones or the round ones with the ball joints in them ? and by later you mean the ones from the 92 rear end stay on the 92 rear end ?
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:26 PM   #4
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I can have a steel driveshaft made for $125 which one is better steel or aluminum?
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:53 PM   #5
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I Have the stock D36 driveshaft and it's aluminum. Only 1 place in town can shorten them and they want $150 to do it I think that's a rip off.
As in the link above ,try it 1st.The diff does not remove in relation to the trans so as long as DS is not bottomed out on the trans you don't need the recommended 1 1/2" cleatrance you do with a live axle
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:57 PM   #6
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Are the bottom camber arms the aluminum dog bones or the round ones with the ball joints in them ??
Neither.
Camber arms are the big alum bars from bottom of diff head to spindle ( Control chamber )
rods with ball joints are caster arms
Compare the bolts used to hold the pressed steel bracket to the diff head .The brackets are the same except for the size of the bolt used.You must use bracket to suit diff being used
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:58 AM   #7
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I will have my D36 out in just a couple hours I got most of it done last night. Before I remove my camber arms should I mark or measure anything to possibly put everything back together without having to get an alignment or is there a DIY way to reset the camber once it's back together? I don't think my camber was set correctly to begin with I noticed alot of wear on the inside of the tire. The passenger rear tire is worn alot more than the driver side so I wonder if the posi in the D36 was going bad. These tires only have about 3,000 miles on them so most of the wear is from spinning them. The fronts are still like brand new.
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Old 12-08-2009, 03:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
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should I mark or measure anything to possibly put everything back together without having to get an alignment or is there a DIY way to reset the camber once it's back together? .
You have to swap the camber arms so any markings will be irrelavent .Will need alignment when finished

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I wonder if the posi in the D36 was going bad. .
No , the camber setting on one side would be different to the other giving different wear patterns .Also the caster setting could be out meaning the inside of the tire is dragging
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