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Old 08-09-2010, 06:43 AM   #1
seb.a
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Which cam on a 1985 L98 with basics mods

Hi everyone !

I am looking for a cam swap on my 85 L98 on which I've done some mods:
_ K&N air filter with open air filter screen (without baffle)
_ TB coolant by-pass
_ slightly ported plenum (I removed the EGR baffle and ported the plenum to match a 58 mm TB)
_ hypertech 180f thermostat
_ hightflow edelbrock water pump
_ mallory AFPR set to 47 PSI
_ A/C, EGR and smog pump deleted
_ catalytic converter is empty
_ muffler eliminator

it has the 3.07 rear gear ratio.

I saw GRUMPY says that the cranecams 114132 is a good way to go with a basic mods engine so I would like to know if it is way I have to go.

I'm going to work on the head (or swap to aluminium heads) this winter and I project to swap my TH700R4 to a TKO600 or a 6 spd trans with a 3.54 or 3.73 when I'll have the money.

So is the 114132 a good choice or should I use another cam ?
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:04 AM   #2
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before you buy a cam think about the totla package. If you are looking into aluminum heads (and maybe intake) consider those before you buy the cam. not sure of the specs listed on the cam you mentioned but without new heads/intake and bigger exhaust pipe any cam much more than stock with only have a negative affect.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seb.a View Post

So is the 114132 a good choice or should I use another cam ?

obviously theres other choices, but if your looking for a good cheap and very effective flat tappet replacement cam, to use with the stock heads and intake, the crane grind provides a noticeable power boost for low dollar output, especially if matched to 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers and better valve springs with the required clearances


http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...32&lvl=2&prt=5

got a good deal more cash to spend? go roller cam, but youll want better heads with better springs, and new push rods and the roller rockers become almost mandatory and its easily $800-$1000 more, but the better heads and roller cam can produce a good deal more hp too.

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...00482&x=31&y=5


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=52&t=82

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...php?f=52&t=181
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" IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"
Old 08-09-2010, 11:24 AM   #4
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Thanks for your quick answers.

I would like to buy a head combo like this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K314-350-400/

or this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K314-420-395/

but it will be very expensive because of the transport to France.


I know this combo will not permit my engine to reach the indicated power; the intake and the exhaust are too restrictive but it will help me to gain some HP.

What I am looking for is a gain of 30 to 50 HP without spend a lot.
I am thinking of replace the camshaft and maybe the head because I have to replace the valve stem seals so I don't want to remove the heads just for that.
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:55 AM   #5
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K314-350-400/

youll easily gain 60hp or more with this milder kit with its upgraded heads and cam

the other more aggressive kit, with its more aggressive cam timing would REQUIRE, BOTH, a 3.54:1-or-3.73:1 rear gear (not your 3.07:1)and a new 2800-3000 rpm stall converter to work correctly (not your stock converter) IF YOU STAY WITH THE 700R4.............
IF YOU SWAP TO THE TKO600 THE,upgraded heads and cam with the 3.07 REAR GEAR WILL WORK REASONABLY WELL,with the wilder cam timing BUT A 3.54:1-or-3.73:1 rear gear WOULD BE IDEAL , and you should keep in mind that the stock intake will limit the upper rpm power significantly with the wilder cam,and better heads so you sacrifice both low and upper rpm range............
you could of course upgrade the intake, swap to a low restriction 3" exhaust and headers and swap to 30 lb injectors and get the full potential from the rear gears and new heads

http://www.firstfuelinjection.com/products.htm

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...php?f=32&t=430

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=56&t=91
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:03 AM   #6
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This may be a bit off topic, and not really answering your question, but before looking at a cam I would suggest you consider a good set of exhaust headers. They will open the engine's breathing substantially, and will give you a nice bump in power without anywhere near as much work as a cam install. Plus, they will better facilitate further upgrades in the future (ie. cylinder heads, intake, cam, etc...)
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:13 AM   #7
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well, I know that the L98 need long tube headers and free flowing exhaust but I have to go step by step because the performance parts are quite expensive and the shipping + frensh taxes are too expensive.

My goal is to build the sbc 400 bloc (# 509) that I have in my garage.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:31 PM   #8
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I'm pretty much in the same situation with my -86 flat tappet engine as you are Seb. IMHO, I would (and I will) start with the headers and continue from there. This way the stock exhaust manifolds will not be choking the other mods such as cam and heads.
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:11 PM   #9
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OK !

sure I'll get much benefits of the cam with the full length headers + 3" y pipe. I think I'll go that way before buying the cam, however I still have a question.

Which header should I buy ?

I know the hedman are pretty good but I don't want to modify it before install on the engine. (on my 3rd gen T/A I have to modify the hedman header if I want to avoid it hurting the body)
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seb.a View Post
Which header should I buy ?

I know the hedman are pretty good but I don't want to modify it before install on the engine. (on my 3rd gen T/A I have to modify the hedman header if I want to avoid it hurting the body)
I never had my hedman elites [HED-68448] installed before doing my engine swap, so I can't say what the fitment was like on stock heads and all, but I only had minor adjustments to make for added clearance with the passenger side only. Everything fit good and construction quality is solid, I just wanted extra space near wiring. Saved bundles, even with having a fabricator bring in the #8 primary for me.

TPiS and Melrose make some high quality headers too that you won't be disappointed in. Melrose is a Supporting Vendor, check 'em out.
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