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Old 10-16-2011, 11:14 AM   #1
usasealx
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Need help with 700r4 front pump seal replacement

Hey my trans is out, Ive cleaned it up, and am now ready to do the repairs.

All I bought was the front seal with retainer. Is there anything else I need to do? (I cant afford rebuilds and the like)

Is there anything else around the front area of the trans that could have caused it to leak like crazy when the motor is running? The TC looks fine, and the front seal itself looks fine.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:00 PM   #2
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I would replace the front pump seal, the trans input shaft seal, filter, and pan gasket.

One thing you can do to help the pan and front pump gaskets seal very well, besides making sure the surfaces are clean and dry, is to spray the gasket (on both sides) with gasket adhesive.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:03 PM   #3
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what and where is the trans input shaft seal? I can see 2 orings of i look down the shaft behind the pump, are those them?

also how do I know if the bushing hasnt walked forward onto the front pump seal?

to do what you are saying, can I keep the pump on the trans or do i have to remove it?
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:10 PM   #4
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the input shaft seal (what seals where the torque converter goes into the pump, looks like any other seal- metal outer surfaces with a rubber umbrella style seal inside. To replace the pump gasket you would have to remove the pump. It may or may not have been leaking, but if you have the trans out to begin with it is a pretty good time to go ahead and do it anyway. Imagine how pissed you would be if you don't replace it and 3-6 months down the road you have to pull the trans back out and replace it anyway.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:17 PM   #5
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any writeups on how to remove the front pump? do i HAVE to remove the lockup solenoid in order to remove it? Or can i just pop the pump off without removing the pan etc etc to be able to pry on it.

Is there anything connected to it that can be damaged just from removing the bolts and trying to get it off?
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #6
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the easiest method is with a slide hammer, it fits pretty snug. I have done it by threading 2 long ass bolts in and jerking on it. There is nothing connected to it that you have to worry about unhooking.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:39 PM   #7
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screw it, I just turned it upside down, going to remove the pan and just pry on the back of it with a flathead. Only thing I worry about is the bushing? I do not know how to visually check if its right where its supposed to b etc etc.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:50 PM   #8
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STOP!!!!!


you must remove the lockup solenoid first!!!

remove the pan and remove the solenoid, you then need to get the trans standing upright with the tail section down

since you dont have a puller for the pump you can use a pry bar

once removed sray it with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and remove the rubber 0-ring/seal from the outside diameter of the pump

there will be a flat washer/bearing under the pump between the front drum and the pump, trans gel, or vaseline will hold it in place when you reassemble

clean everything on the pump, replace the gasket between the rear of the pump and front end of the trans casing, note the position of the gasket, it must be clocked right or else

before putting it back together use some black rtv sealant on the large pump o-ring, it helps seal, and lubricates for easier installation

change the washers/seals on the front pump bolts when you reassemble the trans use black rtv there also

gently slide into place and push it down as far as it will go, you may need a rubber mallet to get it seated completely

change the input shaft sealing rings also while youre there

call me 734-344-9363 if you get stuck

dont use rags, the fibers can get into the trans and stick valves
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:58 PM   #9
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luckily I havent done anything yet, just turned in on its backside to remove the pan, will remove lockup solenoid. and continue with the rest.
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:59 PM   #10
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ok front pump is off, heading to napa to buy the rest of the seals.


1. front pump to converter seal
2. front pump to case gasket
3. front pump seal w/retainer
4. front pump to case o-ring

that should be it right? Thats all NAPA has listed for A/T pump parts eheh. Should i even bother messing with the bushing?
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:21 PM   #11
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if they dont have the bushing and you cant wait then skip it

if you want it swapped then you need to take the pump apart, those bushings normally last a long long time

what year is your car? how many miles
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:25 PM   #12
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86, 105k miles.

NAPA is closed : ( I have the front seal with retainer already, but I wanted to replace the o-ring as well, I need to get the car back on the road by tues, do you think the front seal with retainer is all that I need to do? I do not think there was any leak from the outer o-ring to begin with.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:09 PM   #13
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Try as I might, I cannot picture the lockup solenoid's location. I could have sworn last time I rebuilt a 700R4 I didn't need to remove the solenoid, but then again that was back in '99.

Sorry man, didn't mean to give mislead you- I've had a lot of head injuries lol
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:36 PM   #14
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Hey man you were really helpful don't even worry about it!

I am bummed cause I wanted to put the car back together today, but I will have to wait till tmrw all because of the outer o-ring haha.

In the mean time I am painting the trans Chevy red/orange, thought hell might as well lol.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:56 PM   #15
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most front end leaks i have seen are just from the front pump seal

a new seal with some good sealant around it where it presses in, ( I actually use a touch of 3M 80003 weatherstrip adhesive) usually foxes things up


be sure to use the retainer


you could probably reuse the large o-ring, i have had to a couple times, as long as it is clean/dry/sealant used you should be good to go, the pump to case gasket needs to be nice as well


if it is apart i would just do it tomorrow, but i have done a lot of cheats a few times in a midnight trans repair when there was 3 hrs to do the whole job, lol
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