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Old 03-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #1
Jake_Dragon
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700R4 no forward gears

Well it finally happened. I was expecting it for a while now just wish it would have waited a few more years.

My 84 has had a lot of work done to it. Converted to a carburetor and the only thing the computer runs is the fuel pump.
The 700r4 TV cable wasn't hooked up right when I first got the car, I did fix it but i think the damage was already done.

Today on the way home it popped out of drive. I got it back into gear once then it lost all forward gears.

So out it has to come, what I need help with is any tips. I have pulled my share of transmissions and do feel I can get this done but any shortcuts would be appreciated.

Also if anyone knows of a good transmission builder in central Florida I would appreciate any help in the right direction.

Thanks Guys.
Jake
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:59 PM   #2
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I put contact infofor a builder on you post on the Florida site. As for tips be prepared to pry the c beam to the side and support the rear of the trans.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #3
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Thanks

I know what needs support from when I had to replace the rear end. But I appreciate the input.

I haven't pulled a transmission out of a Vette before. I just need to know if I can drop the trans out the bottom or do I need to pull the engine and trans at the same time?

Thanks
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake_Dragon View Post
Thanks

I know what needs support from when I had to replace the rear end. But I appreciate the input.

I haven't pulled a transmission out of a Vette before. I just need to know if I can drop the trans out the bottom or do I need to pull the engine and trans at the same time?

Thanks
Jake
Engine can stay in Your Corvette.
Drop the transmission out from underneath as normal with any other rear wheel drive car or truck.
Unhook the TV cable up top.
Remove the trans dipstick indicator.
Drop the exhaust system for under carriage working room.
Remove the driveshaft.
Then support the trans with a floor jack or a small steady rest of some sort.
Remove the C beam.
Loosen stater mounting bolts 2 turns. Leave it in vehicle.
Remove the tans dust cover.
Remove the 3 torque converter to flexplate bolts.
Remove the VSS electrical connector.
Disconnect the TCC lockup connector.
Remove the 6 bellhousing bolts.
Lower trans out of your Vette.
Support engine with blocks of wood under the engine oil pan.

Don't forget to disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines at trans & manual shifter cable too.


Last edited by 87vette81big; 03-19-2012 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:03 PM   #5
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The midyear 1987 to 1993 C4 700R4 trans has many factory improvements internal for durability & shift quality.

If you can find one of these C4 700R4 cores, its what I would rebuild & blueprint Vs your original 1984 C4 700R4.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:05 PM   #6
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You Blew out the Forward Clutch Pack in your 1984 C4 700R4 by the way.

BR
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:13 PM   #7
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Thanks appreciate the information.
It looks pretty straight forward.

I think the only thing I was planning to do that you said wasn't needed was removing the starter.

I kind of figured that it was the clutch packs, with the car in park I can hear it and it only gets quiet when I put it in reverse. The fluid doesn't smell burnt and its not dark but the car has had issues in the past. The transmission is a 96 but I don't know if I would trust it to rebuild it. I don't know how you would get all of that garbage out of it.

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
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You Blew out the Forward Clutch Pack in your 1984 C4 700R4 by the way.

BR
Sounds like you know the 700r4 really well... Its one of my favorite transmissions.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:40 AM   #9
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I have one quote already and have a couple of good leads.
Its not going to be as bad as I expected.

So a couple of things I need to work out. My car doesn't have a computer running the lock up. I will have to have that taken care of. Also is there a better way to protect the transmission from not having the TV cable hooked up correctly?

I had to custom make the linkage on my car so its all the way open when I have the throttle all the way open. But it was a pain in the butt to get right and the previous owner didn't have it set right from the beginning. It is right now but I will be extra cautious when I get the new transmission installed.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:40 AM   #10
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Summit sells a valve body that doesn't use the TV cable for it's pressure. It's a few hundred bucks but worth it in my opinion. I'm going to be doing one when I get my arm out of this cast.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:03 AM   #11
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A few tips from me. The last year I pulled 3 times mine from 1984 Vette.
Finaly I was able to remove it for 40 min.
There is a trick with the C beam and the shaft.
You have to support the tranny but not on the end.
Remove the 4 big bolts wich support the C beam.
Take out the shaft.
Remove the 4 bolts from the tranny rear end.
Remove the speed sensor and take off the rear end.
Remove the speed sensor gear to avoid problems.
Now the C beam can go out realy easy.

The other tip. take out the distributor cap and rotor.
Not necessary to remove the cap at all, just to move it away from the place.
Because the engine has to be free to pull the trany. Not with support below the oil carter. The right cilinder head will touch the body. Put some clothes to avoid scraches.

The initial problem with mine 700r4 was no forward gears and only revers and 1-2. NO D and 3.
When I opened my tranny I saw the main problem in the forward sprag (was destroyed) I saw only the overdrive clutch burned. I changed all the clutches and steels... and gaskets. And there was the problem. I changed the place of the two big gaskets on the valve body. Thats burn my tranny again after 5 miles!!!
The 3 time when I opened the box were to put a Z-PACK from Raibestos. Since then work just fine.

Sorry for my English, I hope you understand me.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake_Dragon View Post
Thanks appreciate the information.
It looks pretty straight forward.

I think the only thing I was planning to do that you said wasn't needed was removing the starter.

I kind of figured that it was the clutch packs, with the car in park I can hear it and it only gets quiet when I put it in reverse. The fluid doesn't smell burnt and its not dark but the car has had issues in the past. The transmission is a 96 but I don't know if I would trust it to rebuild it. I don't know how you would get all of that garbage out of it.

Thanks
Jake
You know since the trans fluid is not burnt,
it may be a sticking Forward Boost Valve.
Works in conjuction with the manual external TV cable.
You may be able to repair the trans in your Vette yet.
Forward & reverse boost valves located in the front pump assembly.
Service with the trans pan removed.
Have to drive to work.
I will give it some more thought today.
You can make more checks today on your own.
Drop trans pan & if no bombs went off, trans can maybe be saved.

Brian
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raidmagic View Post
Summit sells a valve body that doesn't use the TV cable for it's pressure. It's a few hundred bucks but worth it in my opinion. I'm going to be doing one when I get my arm out of this cast.
That valve body is best for drag race use only.
Will slam you back all the time on upshifts.
& blow the back tires off too.
At times when you don't want to such as when Hawaii 5' o is following your Vette.

BR
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87vette81big View Post
That valve body is best for drag race use only.
Will slam you back all the time on upshifts.
& blow the back tires off too.
At times when you don't want to such as when Hawaii 5' o is following your Vette.

BR
I've gt a buddy with one in his Trans Am and when driving normal it shifts smooth and light.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87vette81big View Post
You know since the trans fluid is not burnt,
it may be a sticking Forward Boost Valve.
Works in conjuction with the manual external TV cable.
You may be able to repair the trans in your Vette yet.
Forward & reverse boost valves located in the front pump assembly.
Service with the trans pan removed.
Have to drive to work.
I will give it some more thought today.
You can make more checks today on your own.
Drop trans pan & if no bombs went off, trans can maybe be saved.

Brian
Thanks Brian, I should be able to drop the pan tomorrow and will take some pictures. Cars never break down when you have plenty of time to work on them.
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