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Old 11-12-2012, 08:25 AM   #1
ndv
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Energy Suspension Engine Mounts and Headers

I bought this engine/tranny mount kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1120g

Got it installed with the plates and I am not sure I should have used those since I have started my header install I am running into clearance problems at a couple points.

First area is the front passenger primary is making contact at the point where it goes under the frame.

Second area is at the steering box on the driver's side.

Should I have not used the plates on the engine mount?

Also, I am willing to clearance the primaries in question and was thinking about using the press to "flatten" them a bit. Not sure if this is a good idea or not. I am open to suggestions.

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:02 PM   #2
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Did some further reading at lunch.

Looks like a simple fire fix! Need to dimple the areas that are touching a bit. My question is, will a propane torch get stainless steel hot enough to soften it?

Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:31 PM   #3
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Why would you want to pay good money for headers and then reduce there flow by denting them to clear motor mounts???
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iburke View Post
Why would you want to pay good money for headers and then reduce there flow by denting them to clear motor mounts???
The quest about the motor mounts was concerning the height of them with the backing plate on.

I am running into clearance problems at one bend on the passenger going under the frame and at the steering box on the driver's.

I don't see much choice other than dimpling at these two locations and if dimpling really caused that much of a restriction, I doubt the other (probably better) manufacturers would send them pre-dimpled.

It's a calculated risk and a fairly common requirement from what I've read.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #5
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I haven't used a Es poly trans mount in a few years but I bought the eng & tran kit from Summit at the time and the trans mounts were too tall. I ended up calling ES at the time and the tech confirmed they were not for the vette, although the catalog, web site,and Summit never stated that. I used a Prothane tran mount which worked and the ES engine mounts.

My son ran the same on his st/strip car and the mounts didn't last very long. They are still on my car 7 years now.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
I haven't used a Es poly trans mount in a few years but I bought the eng & tran kit from Summit at the time and the trans mounts were too tall. I ended up calling ES at the time and the tech confirmed they were not for the vette, although the catalog, web site,and Summit never stated that. I used a Prothane tran mount which worked and the ES engine mounts.

My son ran the same on his st/strip car and the mounts didn't last very long. They are still on my car 7 years now.
Thanks for the info.

Mine actually lined up pretty good. While the tranny mount was a tad taller than the stock one, my old mount was pretty mashed up so I figured that was the difference. Maybe 1/8" difference from old to new or close to that.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:53 PM   #7
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Ah yes, dimpling headers.

Tip:

Build a support for the back side of what you want to dimple. I use a 4x4 piece of pine with a hole through the center the size of the header pipe. Cut that in half along the sides of the hole. This provides about 3-1/2" of semi soft cradle. Position the cradle on the opposite side of the tube you want to dimple.

Use a solid round steel rod like 1/2"-3/4" in diameter. Lay the rod across where you want the dimple. Strike the rod with your favorite persuader until the desired depth is achieved.

The rounded sides of the rod will leave a gradual ramp in the dimpled header which is better for flow than just beating it in with a ball peen hammer. You can also use a press to push the rod into the pipe. Make sure the cradle is positioned on the opposite side or it will flatten that side about equal to the dent depth.

Hope this helps........
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7TRoadster View Post
Ah yes, dimpling headers.

Tip:

Build a support for the back side of what you want to dimple. I use a 4x4 piece of pine with a hole through the center the size of the header pipe. Cut that in half along the sides of the hole. This provides about 3-1/2" of semi soft cradle. Position the cradle on the opposite side of the tube you want to dimple.

Use a solid round steel rod like 1/2"-3/4" in diameter. Lay the rod across where you want the dimple. Strike the rod with your favorite persuader until the desired depth is achieved.

The rounded sides of the rod will leave a gradual ramp in the dimpled header which is better for flow than just beating it in with a ball peen hammer. You can also use a press to push the rod into the pipe. Make sure the cradle is positioned on the opposite side or it will flatten that side about equal to the dent depth.

Hope this helps........
Thanks! You confirmed all the reading I've done so far. Heat + Persuasion (or brute force if you will). We don't have a completely round cradle but we'd planned on "packing the corners" of ours. Hopefully it will work.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #9
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i've found that a pickle-fork handle is about the right size for working a dimple into headers. with heavy "persuader" and the above-described wood cradle. i use regular ol' 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, tho, for the right-sized semi-circle support.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpol98 View Post
i've found that a pickle-fork handle is about the right size for working a dimple into headers. with heavy "persuader" and the above-described wood cradle. i use regular ol' 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, tho, for the right-sized semi-circle support.
Thats exactly what we ended up using. Our old beater pickle fork. That poor thing has been beat 7 ways to sunday.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:02 AM   #11
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Headers are mostly installed.

I had to clearance a driver's side primary in 2 places to clear the steering gear and one place on the passenger side to clear the frame. All in all, not too bad.

The worst part was 2 holes didn't quite line up. They did ok when the just the 2 bolts for that exhaust port were threaded but then others didn't line up. What I ended up doing was opening the 2 holes another 1/16th (7/16th drill bit) of an inch and cutting the flange out between the mount points.

I'll get some pics and post them after Turkey.
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