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Old 11-20-2012, 12:23 PM   #1
06cummins
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Serious problem

Well I just got my 84 couple days ago it ran great on the way home. The next day I was letting it idle checking a few things and it died. No spark so I replace cap rotor module still nothing. I take off the cap and turn it over the rotor is not turning?? Any Ideas what would cause this problem??
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:28 PM   #2
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Maybe pull the whole dizzy and see if anything is shredded. Also, is the starter engaging the flywheel? If not, then the crank won't turn and neither will the rotor.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:37 PM   #3
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I pulled the dizzy. And it looks ok nothing is shredded. The starter is engaging the motor is turning over. I didn't notice any material on the dizzy gear either. I had figured the cam might be walking but I'm sure it would tare the dizzy gear off before the cam right. Now the only other thing I could think of would be the timing chain broke and its not spinning the cam. ????
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Now the only other thing I could think of would be the timing chain broke and its not spinning the cam. ????
Also a possibility. But if the crank is moving and the chain broke, I'd imagine you'd hear some nasty stuff near the front of the motor. Maybe someone else will chime in....
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:53 PM   #5
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I'd have to say if the crank is turning and the rotor in the distributer is not

A. Distrubuter is not installed properly (all the way seated to cam (oil pump shaft not engaged)

B. Timing chain drive train, IE broken cam gear, sloppy loose broken chain

C. cam gear worn out, broken cam


Silly question, did the roll pin in the distributer shaft that locks the distributer gear on broke? Take the distributer out again and make sure the gear DOES NOT spin on the shaft
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #6
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If the chain is broken you should hear a difference in the sound of how it cranks. If not pull a valve cover and see if the rockers are moving
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:42 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the replies and yes my guess was right the timing chain is broke. The valves are not moving when I turn the motor over. So I'm going to replace the timing chain and few other lil things. And see if he will fire up. Any idea how long it will take to replace the timing chain.


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Old 11-20-2012, 01:53 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies and yes my guess was right the timing chain is broke. The valves are not moving when I turn the motor over. So I'm going to replace the timing chain and few other lil things. And see if he will fire up. Any idea how long it will take to replace the timing chain.


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If you've never done it before, I say a day. It'll take you longer to get to it/get stuff out of the way than it will to actually put on the new chain.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #9
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It's a good afternoon, the biggest hassle is getting the balancer off, there just isn't enough room to get the puller in there with the brace and power steering lines. On my Dad's car we pulled one line loose from the rack and used an extension from the front to get to it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:58 PM   #10
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Oh yeah, you might as well throw a cam in it while you are there
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:13 PM   #11
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Oh yeah, you might as well throw a cam in it while you are there
Haha yeah that won't go over well it's the wife's car. I plan on pulling the motor and having it rebuilt but that's not in the budget yet. As long as we can drive until I have the money to build it.


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Old 11-20-2012, 02:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raidmagic View Post
It's a good afternoon, the biggest hassle is getting the balancer off, there just isn't enough room to get the puller in there with the brace and power steering lines. On my Dad's car we pulled one line loose from the rack and used an extension from the front to get to it.
Not really, I did mine with out no problems. The power lines have a "hump" formed into them allowing a long extension and sock to remove the center bolt. and allow a puller shaft to slip through the same hole. I think the hardest part was removing the alternator brackets (you will have to loosen them all up before removing brakets (you will see) Also the plastic plug on the back of the air conditioner is a little hard to figure out how to unplug (Hint you squeeze it and pull towards fire wall)
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:40 PM   #13
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Thanks Walley I will keep that in mind. Looking into a double timing chain. Are the cams in these motors rollers or no?


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Old 11-20-2012, 03:10 PM   #14
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Thanks Walley I will keep that in mind. Looking into a double timing chain. Are the cams in these motors rollers or no?
Stock they are not. I am still using the stock heads with a good valve grind. I did use roller tiped rockers though. (lunati). I had to grind off the oil tabs on the inside of the valve covers. I enjoy our '84 but it isn't no rocket ship with the factory crossfire. I don't know if you will get that much improvement with a roller cam and stock heads.

BTW all timming chains nowadays are double roller its sorta like the 3/4 cam thingy (outdated)

If it was me though, I would drop the pan and clean it out and replace the oil pump while your in there. Also highly recomend using the single piece oil pan gasket set.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:17 PM   #15
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Not really, I did mine with out no problems. The power lines have a "hump" formed into them allowing a long extension and sock to remove the center bolt. and allow a puller shaft to slip through the same hole. I think the hardest part was removing the alternator brackets (you will have to loosen them all up before removing brakets (you will see) Also the plastic plug on the back of the air conditioner is a little hard to figure out how to unplug (Hint you squeeze it and pull towards fire wall)
I was just speaking from my experience. This was on an 88. ALt. bracket not a problem but getting that puller on the balancer was.
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