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Old 01-27-2013, 12:33 PM   #1
XQIZT
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77 Engine ticking when warm

Title says it all. Once the 77 gets warmed up, this ticking is noticeable at all speeds and stopped at idle. It is linked to RPM. Valve noise?



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Old 01-27-2013, 02:09 PM   #2
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Last time I heard that sound it was a dirty lifter. Poured in some Mystery Oil and it was gone after a trip around the block.
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Rich
Old 01-27-2013, 05:15 PM   #3
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Check your heat riser on pass side of motor
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:22 PM   #4
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Well, something puked some kinda fluid on the highway. Shut down the car. I'll investigate further then I get home. Leaning towards headgasket right now.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:49 PM   #5
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Well BOY was I wrong...based on what I was being told over the phone. Got home tonight and looked under the car. THIS is what I found:



SOMETHING tried to escape from the oil pan.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:00 PM   #6
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Threw a rod. I had that happen many years back on my 67 Olds. What's your plans now?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:05 PM   #7
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Threw a rod. I had that happen many years back on my 67 Olds. What's your plans now?
That's what I thought. I've heard of it happening...but why? How? Preventable?

I'm going to pull the pan down soon and see how much destruction there is. I'm assuming its going to look like a grenade went off. SOOOOOOOOoooooo, that makes me think that there is no sense in attempting to rebuild it. Unless the consensus os otherwise here.

Plans other than that....welllll.....stay tuned.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:31 PM   #8
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That's what I thought. I've heard of it happening...but why? How? Preventable?

I'm going to pull the pan down soon and see how much destruction there is. I'm assuming its going to look like a grenade went off. SOOOOOOOOoooooo, that makes me think that there is no sense in attempting to rebuild it. Unless the consensus os otherwise here.

Plans other than that....welllll.....stay tuned.

Post lots of pics. It sucks, but we're men, and destruction is cool. We want to see it.

Then tell us your evil plans for the car once the dead motor is removed.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XQIZT View Post
That's what I thought. I've heard of it happening...but why? How? Preventable?

I'm going to pull the pan down soon and see how much destruction there is. I'm assuming its going to look like a grenade went off. SOOOOOOOOoooooo, that makes me think that there is no sense in attempting to rebuild it. Unless the consensus os otherwise here.

Plans other than that....welllll.....stay tuned.
I recommend a GM Performance Parts ZZ4 350. Or maybe a 383. But I've wanted a ZZ4 for my El Camino for years. Old school design with modern heads, roller cam. And pretty much ready to run.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:39 PM   #10
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I recommend a GM Performance Parts ZZ4 350. Or maybe a 383. But I've wanted a ZZ4 for my El Camino for years. Old school design with modern heads, roller cam. And pretty much ready to run.
I've got the ZZ4 in my 85. Nice motor indeed. Might look into something a bit more LudicrouS.

Guess no one thinks I should rebuild the L48, huh?
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:42 AM   #11
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I've got the ZZ4 in my 85. Nice motor indeed. Might look into something a bit more LudicrouS.

Guess no one thinks I should rebuild the L48, huh?

There are two types of threads about rebuilding a blown 350. Ones where we suggest how to go about the build so it's easy and affordable, and ones where we suggest bigger and better options once we found out the OP was interested in or could afford bigger and better options.

I got the feeling right away that you weren't latched onto the fastest or cheapest option and were willing to entertain fun ideas for what goes back in the car.

If you want the moon...start planning an LS swap. Another WOW factor would be stuffing one of the late model big block Vortec engines in the car. The 8.1L or 7.4L big blocks...which are roller lifter engines...would be fantastic too. Both the LS and late model Vortecs could easily be done with EFI or carb.

Old school big blocks would be another fun and easy choice, same for dropping in a turn key crate from GM, ranging from warmed up small block to high revving strokers.

Boring option? Rebuild the L48 350.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:49 AM   #12
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Guess no one thinks I should rebuild the L48, huh?
Do you have a boat? Could it use a new anchor?
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:18 AM   #13
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DB: you're right. We are not concerned with keeping the car original but we also donlt have a TON of cash to spend.

This car is also a daily driver, so reliability is a factor here.

Had the L48 NOT puked, these were the plans:
Tranny with an OD.
Add Vintage Air.
Fiddle with all the nickle and dime stuff that I know were coming.

Now that the choice seems to be easier, this is what we are considering:
LS motor, with tranny (I've got a lead on this equipment already)
Fiddle with a smaller list of nickle and dime stuff.

Both the options seem to cost just about the same, so time and reliability are the determining factors right now.

Plus I know she'd be super happy with a bad ass LS stuffed in the nose.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:01 AM   #14
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LS swaps are costly , grab a 260hp crate and an o/d .. It will not only be cost effective but good on gas and swap into car with no mods ..



http://www.jegs.com/s/GM_Engines/GME...eshipping.html
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XQIZT View Post
DB: you're right. We are not concerned with keeping the car original but we also donlt have a TON of cash to spend.

This car is also a daily driver, so reliability is a factor here.

Had the L48 NOT puked, these were the plans:
Tranny with an OD.
Add Vintage Air.
Fiddle with all the nickle and dime stuff that I know were coming.

Now that the choice seems to be easier, this is what we are considering:
LS motor, with tranny (I've got a lead on this equipment already)
Fiddle with a smaller list of nickle and dime stuff.

Both the options seem to cost just about the same, so time and reliability are the determining factors right now.

Plus I know she'd be super happy with a bad ass LS stuffed in the nose.

I vote LS. The costs add up, but it's cheaper than ever to do the swaps now that people have been doing them so long...and there is a LOT more after market support for things that are required like mounts and accessory brackets.

The 5.3L is a good starting point for cost, plus it was available both as an iron and aluminum block. The 5.7L is common and affordable. The 6.0L and 6.2L will give you more power but you'll pay a bit more for the engines to start with. Really, can't complain about any of them in a car as light as the Corvette compared to the trucks they came out of...even the 5.3L will seem wonderful.
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