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Old 01-30-2013, 08:24 PM   #1
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Busted Motor photos and questions.

Well, the "ticking" sound (discussed in a previous thread) turned out to be that of a time bomb. Got the oil pan off tonight and it looks like a spun bearing/broken rod.

Question 1: why does the neighboring cap look so dry? Severe heating?

Question 2: what are possible causes to breakage and is there any way to avoid it?

Question/Observation: There seems to be water/coolant dripping ONLY out of the cylinder area of the broken rod. Is it possible the head gasket was leaking and therefore caused this problem? I only ask because I am wondering if this motor is rebuildable (by someone else) or if its destined for the scrap pile. There were no other signs of a head gaskets leak. Oil and coolant levels were always in check and it never blew any smoke from the tailpipes. Never overheated.

We've basically come to the conclusion that we'll be dropping an LS motor in the nose now. Look for some threads regarding that later.

On to the photos:



Right side of photo is the passenger side:


All the shrapnel in the pan:


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Old 01-30-2013, 09:31 PM   #2
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...man that sucks big time....but you weren't using Mobil1
or Royal Purple.....
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:47 PM   #3
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Just a guess,and I'm no expert but it looks like there may have been a bit of heat on that crank journal and the still intact rod.
Looking forward to hearing what those that are in the know have to say....

By the way,if it were me I would go the LS route also!
I know if mine ever goes away as yours did that is the direction I will go.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:51 PM   #4
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Wow, you don't waste any time! I wonder if the oil gage showed anything abnormal near the end? It's strange that the next rod and cap look oil free.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Wow, you don't waste any time! I wonder if the oil gage showed anything abnormal near the end? It's strange that the next rod and cap look oil free.
You assume that the oil gauge was working. "Little" things like that were creeping up the list...until now. Temp gauge apparently showed nothing abnormal.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
It's strange that the next rod and cap look oil free
Either oil free which is pretty unlikely or a spun bearing that created so much heat that it just burned all the oil off the rod. It appears that a bunch of heat was involved. If it's just a spun bearing then a rebuild is a possibility if the rod and/or piston didn't score the cylinder walls very much.. Another crank will be a necessity though as will at least 2 new rods and a balancing job. Certainly a lot more easily repaired than a LS swap. While you're in there..............have some fun with other parts.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:54 AM   #7
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When a connecting fails like in You Corvette, The Rod beam breaks in 2, the cylinder wall gets a hairline crack or the the same cylinder wall gets punctured through.
Very likely source of dripping Green Antifreeze.

Severe Detonation will cause the big end of the connecting rod to go out of round. Upper & Lower bearing shells move inward at the parting lines & bite the crankshaft rod journal hard.
That wipes off all the oil film.
Failure is immanent.

Seen failures like your Vette sbc many times in drag & dirt track engines.
9 times out 10 severe detonation was to blame.
Engine ran out oil at High RPM's, oiling failure.
Connecting rod bolt failed.
Rod beam broke with engine spun over 8K rpm's with substandard parts used.
Cheap racers using China parts & Chinese won the War.
That Racer now broke.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:07 AM   #8
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Thanks guys. My fear is that there are more monsters lurking, like cracked cylinder walls, etc. and a simple repair will not cover it. Investigating all the possible breakages will cost money and that money could instead go into the LS swap instead.

Anyone need an old L48? Recently rebuilt carb and lots of new accessories.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Anyone need an old L48? Recently rebuilt carb and lots of new accessories.

Best path. Sell what is still good and usable. Just take lots of pics of all the individual pieces and start listing them on Craigslist because it's free. If items don't sell, you can try Ebay, but the fees will eat into your profits quickly on the smaller items. Typically, less than $25 isn't really worth my time or listing fee and I will either hold onto it as a spare or in case a friend needs it someday or I will add it to my scrap and take it all in one load for some cash at the scrap yard.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:27 AM   #10
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Why go LS ? I ask because it is a big swap process and costly.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:40 AM   #11
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Why go LS ? I ask because it is a big swap process and costly.
You ask the same question that my fiance and I have been kicking around for a few nights. Here's where we are coming from, and I welcome comments:

LS Motor, tranny, exhaust manifolds, ECM, interior and engine wiring harness: $3000
Obviously, there will be other incidentals as well, so add another $2000 to the tab (although I hope its not that high).
$5000 total for a LS with modern tech and better MPG.

Rebuild L48, add OD tranny and get vintage air installed: Around $3000 at my last estimate. This doesn't include the now needed 2 rods, pistons, oil pan, head gaskets as well as plucking the motor and having it inspected. I can see the bill getting me really close to $5000 total.

For about $1900 I can get a new GM block, but then I still need to add the tranny and A/C, so this option gets me to $5000 as well.

Just seems that no matter which way I cut it, $5000 is about the price.

If I'm off somewhere, please let me know. But now you see our thinking.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:42 AM   #12
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Your being way to optimistic on a LS conversion , the work and mods and alterations pale in time and cost . Grab a crate and have a local respectable tranny shop build you a 2004r and you will be way ahead cash wise and have a good solid set up with good mpg
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:45 AM   #13
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Your being way to optimistic on a LS conversion , the work and mods and alterations pale in time and cost . Grab a crate and have a local respectable tranny shop build you a 2004r and you will be way ahead cash wise and have a good solid set up with good mpg
Optimistic on what part? Time is my own, so no real concern there. I've already have found all the LS stuff I listed at $3000. So, is the additional $2000 not a reasonable number? I appreciate the input.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:07 AM   #14
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Optimistic on what part? Time is my own, so no real concern there. I've already have found all the LS stuff I listed at $3000. So, is the additional $2000 not a reasonable number? I appreciate the input.

There is a lot of stuff that adds up that may not have been considered, but if you're careful it's doable.

Motor mounts
Accessories / brackets
Fuel system
Gauges
Air intake / ducting

Like I said, done carefully and with a lot of thought it's all very affordable. In some cases, these car reach and lead up to a lot of money.

I'm personally excited. I can't wait to see your LS swap unfold.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:21 AM   #15
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There is a lot of stuff that adds up that may not have been considered, but if you're careful it's doable.

Motor mounts
Accessories / brackets
Fuel system
Gauges
Air intake / ducting

Like I said, done carefully and with a lot of thought it's all very affordable. In some cases, these car reach and lead up to a lot of money.

I'm personally excited. I can't wait to see your LS swap unfold.
DB Thanks! Allthose things you listed...could they reach beyond $2000 by a lot?

I'll look into motor mounts.

Accessories are all included, as are the brackets. So unless there is something different, I was thinking the whole lump would just (basically) fit into the nose.

Fuel system. I realize that I'll need a new fuel pump.

Is there a way for the new ECM to "talk" to the old gauges? I'll have to read more and research this issue.

Intake ducting? That can be done with some gutter downspout flexi-tubing, right? Yes, I am kidding.

Thank you all for the input. Between this forum and my own research (which I've only just started), I think that this will turn out alright.
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