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Old 02-03-2013, 11:01 AM   #1
Richard454
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Heat insulation....interior

OK-

I have seen a lot of so called fixes for keeping the heat out of the interior of these cars....

Number one would be plug up all the holes from the firewall-transmission tunnel- use the factory collar to direct the heat way for the interior -all pretty obvious...



The next would be isolating the heat- or rather reflecting it away-and not storing it-

The $100K new BMW /M-B's use a thin aluminum sheet w/ another layer about the same thickness as aluminum foil-spaced a couple mm way from the firewall...I personally think this is the best way to go...Why?

Of the limited cooking I do -I've noticed aluminum foil does not retain the heat when I take my food out of the toaster oven ( can't do this test in my preferred form of cooking -the microwave- for obvious reasons!)







So I'm thinking of replicating this idea... I have seem insulation blankets but attachment would be easier using this type - since it is somewhat rigid- and is very thin.

This is what I see way to often -and to me it makes some sense- the thought process that it's sort like ductwork- where as you want the heat to stay outside the car-but rather than reflecting it away- it's storing it....




The best ( I'm thinking) would NOT to store the heat- but reflect it away- not use black since it holds heat 10 times longer than a shiny surface.....

The next thought is using a styrofoam type material INSIDE the firewall ...and be able to keep it from squeaking....

Ideas...Thought...??? Or will it make that big of a difference...

Richard
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:06 PM   #2
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Richard to Richard

I have insulated just about every car and truck I ever had and some more with friends. Used everything sold on the market. I have noticed a few places key to keeping heat and noise out.
Most overlook the storage area behind the seats. A lot more than you think (noise wise) comes through this area. Secondly, if you have or can take out the dash, insulate all the way up to the windshield. There is a lot of hollow areas inside the interior hard trim - like the "A" pillars and the rear sides and the T-tops. I recently found out what a world of difference insulating the doors makes!
I use 3 different insulating products: Eastwood's self sticking Aluminum/rubber sheeting, Lizard Skin, and Reflectix (btw, get this stuff at the HVAC suppliers as it is less then half the price through other sources ( R.E. Michaels $50 for a 5 ft by 50 ft roll). Always use aluminum self-stick tape for the seams and use a hand roller like they use on laminate counter-tops.
I apply a aluminum/rubber layer on the underside back vertical behind the seats and behind the heatshields - top of foot-wells.


http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-the...-material.html

The most important places are the trans-tunnel, forward the foot wells and any area behind the seats both inside and underside. When I'm done insulating it's a world apart from the start.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:33 PM   #3
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My vette is a convertible with sidepipes, so I wasn't too worried about noise. The Reflexit throughout the interior made a huge difference in the footwells.
For noise fatmat worked great along with the factory insulation.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:38 PM   #4
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Lizard skin is the best thing you can do, both sides of fire wall and floor, it kills the heat and makes the C3 so enjoyable. You will be amazed. That along with controlling the coolant to the heater with valving. My LSX still has an open setup to the heater and with the lizard skin, it stays amazing cool.

Again, lizard skin is the best solution to the heat problems that the C3 has.


Riggs
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:17 AM   #5
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In looking at all the options, I added the Lizard Skin to the firewall, underside and interior. According to them there is a 30% reduction in heat transfer per side.

I haven't had mine out on the road yet but I anticipate a very real reduction in heat transfer. What I liked about it is that it's a coating that sprays on. It goes around all the corners and curves.

Pretty cool stuff, IMHO.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #6
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Thanks for the responses....

So I think I'll go w/ the LizardSkin Original Ceramic...for the interior/firewall.
I'm still looking at maybe a thin layer of styrofoam -and then cover w/ the skin.

Did you guys use a special gun to spray?

I'm gonna fiberglass up the 'astro' ventilation holes-inside the fenderwell-as well as the holes I'm not going to need/use... since I'll have the Vintage Air-and I can always roll down a window -or put down the top if I need fresh air...

For the engine compartment- I'm gonna try to reuse the BMW shielding...



The other Richard- I do like the idea of combining different materials- makes since - look at this- but probably will be out of my price range...

Materials:
Base: Resin-impregnated fiberglass Honeycomb filling: Dow-Corning DC-325 ablative material

This heat shield protected the Gemini spacecraft against the enormous heat of reentry into the atmosphere...

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Old 02-04-2013, 10:59 AM   #7
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Keep in mind that there are 2 different Lizard Skin products, one is the ceramic and that is for heat insulation and the other is the sound deadener. You put the sound deadener on first and then the heat shield ceramic coat. The sound deadener wont stop much of your side pipe/header sound, but it will quiet most all road and tire noise. I guess I'm different, I like to hear my stereo too even though I have Hooker Headers and side pipes.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:03 PM   #8
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I did see the different material...Just interested in getting rid of the heat....plus if traveling w/ the girlfriend/wife you can always say "I didn't hear a word you said"...


I was in the Car stereo Business back in the day (worked for Kenwood) and had the BIG systems in the demo cars I drove around-nowadays I'm happy w/ the stock radio...So the sidepipes are gonna be the music for me.

Getting ready to pull the trigger and order the lizardskin- Should I buy the expensive gun-then put it on the shelf after I'm done...or one from Harbor Freight and throw it away...

Thanks-

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Old 02-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #9
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I didn't know that habor freight had a comparable spray gun so I bought the lizzard skin gun, it laid down a nice texture. Now speaking of texture, I have heard that it is best to spray over the lizzard skin with a few coats of paint to seal up the texture to dirt and road grime from building up in nucks of the texture which sounds like a great ideal for keeping it clean. I may do this in the future.


Riggs.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riggs 74 View Post
I didn't know that habor freight had a comparable spray gun so I bought the lizzard skin gun, it laid down a nice texture. Now speaking of texture, I have heard that it is best to spray over the lizzard skin with a few coats of paint to seal up the texture to dirt and road grime from building up in nucks of the texture which sounds like a great ideal for keeping it clean. I may do this in the future.


Riggs.
Any gun used for spraying bed liner will work (at the moment I don't remember the nozzle size).

Yes, you should use a protective top coat like POR chassis paint
or Eastwood's chassis paints otherwise you will have adhesion and cracking problems.

I bought my gun on Amazon.com and days later it was even less on eBay. Try one of these first to save some money. Even Eastwood products are cheaper when they sell through eBay than their own web site.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:12 PM   #11
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As a testament to the reflective properties of the BMW alum, check any full size van in the last 30 years. They have used essentially the same setup as BMW for the engine interior doghouse and has worked very well. Wouldn't hurt to do from the firewall all the way under to the rear of the seats.
Then some decent insulation inside would keep a/c contained too.

Post pics of the underneath when done.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:13 PM   #12
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Save money...right now I am hemorrhaging money...I read around and some people had good luck w/ other sprayers...some not so good. I like to use the right tools-so I figure $80 and resell it later for $25...I'll be happy w/ the outcome.

I am just gonna spray the interior...maybe try some Styrofoam then cover it w/ lizardskin behind the dash. And in the engine compartment re-use the BMW aluminum sheets......

Thanks for all the input-and I'll post some pics...

Richard
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #13
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Don't spend $80 on a new gun. I did and am not sorry but I also may never use it again. I don't normally lend tools but....
if you'll clean it when you're done and send it back in the same shape you receive it I will send you mine to use. Only been used once, like new condition.

PM me your address.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:23 AM   #14
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WOW- really thanks for the offer- but I already bought it from Summit... My buddy has a business account w/ them so I got it a little cheaper.

Richard
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbluevert View Post
Any gun used for spraying bed liner will work (at the moment I don't remember the nozzle size).

Yes, you should use a protective top coat like POR chassis paint
or Eastwood's chassis paints otherwise you will have adhesion and cracking problems.
Rich,
Do you know what the topcoating procedure for lizard skin is? How long can you wait after the last coat before applying topcoat without sanding? I feel like sanding the surface of lizard skin would degrade performance. Any ideas?
Bill
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