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Old 07-24-2005, 11:18 AM   #1
Big Steve
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ISB NAV amp/subwoofer install instructions

Thanks to all of you that helped put me in the right direction on Digital Corvette.

Background:

The Denso NAV head unit has a built in crossover sending freqs over around 800hz and up to the tiny Bose amp (located under the passenger foot well). This allows them to only amplify the easier high frequencies and save on the cost and heat for the amplifier. Since the low freqs are handled by the self powered subwoofers they can get away with this. What this means is that in order to add an amp to the system you must deal with both line level outputs (high power) and the low level bass signals. I used the LC6 line level converter to convert the high level midrange outputs from the bose amp to low level signals. This allows you to use the LC6 as the amp trigger as well. Only low level signals will go to the amps.

The connections to the Bose AMP consists of two plugs. A 24 pin that provides mid range and highs, input and output and a second 8 pin plug that provides power to the amp and the Bass (door) low level signals (left and right).

What you need:

- LC6 line level converter (Ebay)
- RCA cords for L+R channels to the amp
- Patch cord to take two low level signals from the wires coming in/out? of the BOSE amp and feed them directly to the RCA's on the new amp.
- Wire to feed the power and ground to the LC6
- trigger wire to use the LC6 to automatically turn on the amp(s)
- soldering iron and supplies
- shrink tubing


How I did mine:

On the 24 pin connector going to the Bose amp under the passengers foot well cut back the black plastic covering about two inches. You will see two pairs of wires that are taped and then twisted together. These are the high level outputs from the Bose Amp that feed the left and right mid range. left is light blue + and the dark blue -, right is orange + and dark green - . I soldered an extension wire and second tap wire into each of the new connections. I left the original wiring in place. In other words I just added a tap to each of these wires.

These four connections feed the front channels on the LC6 line level converter.

On the 8 pin connector feeding the Bose amp there are 6 used feeds. Two are power and the other is neg. There are also two pair of smaller twisted wires that feed the subwoofers (low level). There is a light blue(+) dark blue (-) set and a light green(+) dark green(-) set. Since they are low level they must bypass the LC6 and go directly to the new amp(s) low level input.

These are the two pair of wires that need to be tapped in order to feed an external self powered subwoofer!

I'll leave the choices of amps and speakers up to you. Personally, I replaced the door subwoofers with the super thin Blaupunkt subs and made a thin amp rack for the front of the cargo area so that I have lost almost no cargo space at all.

Other tips:
Tsunanami makes a multi RCA connector wire that combines upto 7 independent RCA inputs into one cable - this makes a very easy way to run the RCAs to the amps ($45).

The LC6 fits under the Bose amp with a little dremmel tool work and right angle RCA jack plugs.

Wiring the doors in the C6 is very easy once you remove the Bose 10 subwoofer. A claw type spring parts picker upper is an easy tool to use to grab the wire and run it through the rubber boot from the door into the cabin.

Summary:

There is a fair amount of ajustment that has to be done to equalize the system but once you are done you can here your tunes at 130mph+ (it is OK where I live) with the roof off!

ROCK ON!
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Steve - C6 convert - porsche gone!
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:47 AM   #2
shopdog
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Re: ISB NAV amp/subwoofer install instructions

Quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve
Thanks to all of you that helped put me in the right direction on Digital Corvette.

Background:

The Denso NAV head unit has a built in crossover sending freqs over around 800hz and up to the tiny Bose amp (located under the passenger foot well). This allows them to only amplify the easier high frequencies and save on the cost and heat for the amplifier. Since the low freqs are handled by the self powered subwoofers they can get away with this. What this means is that in order to add an amp to the system you must deal with both line level outputs (high power) and the low level bass signals. I used the LC6 line level converter to convert the high level midrange outputs from the bose amp to low level signals. This allows you to use the LC6 as the amp trigger as well. Only low level signals will go to the amps.


What you're saying is wrong. The Denso HU has 4 low level outputs, LF, RF, LR, RR, on HU connector C1 pins A9-A8, B11-B10, B9-B8, A11-A10 respectively. There is no crossover in the Denso HU. The crossover is in the Bose amp. The Bose amp also combines LR and RR signals into a single rear speaker mono signal, and similarly synthesizes a mono signal for the center dash speaker.

If you tap *these* signals, you'll have your low level signals without needing any level converters, you'll have full range signals that are true fadeable front and rear in stereo for a 4 channel amp. You can then use your own crossover to produce a signal for your subwoofer. (800 Hz is *way* too high a crossover frequency for a sub)

What you describe below are all signal outputs of the Bose amp, which are far from linear or high fidelity. Bypassing the Bose amp entirely by taking the signals directly from the HU will produce much better results.

Quote:
The connections to the Bose AMP consists of two plugs. A 24 pin that provides mid range and highs, input and output and a second 8 pin plug that provides power to the amp and the Bass (door) low level signals (left and right).

What you need:

- LC6 line level converter (Ebay)
- RCA cords for L+R channels to the amp
- Patch cord to take two low level signals from the wires coming in/out? of the BOSE amp and feed them directly to the RCA's on the new amp.
- Wire to feed the power and ground to the LC6
- trigger wire to use the LC6 to automatically turn on the amp(s)
- soldering iron and supplies
- shrink tubing


How I did mine:

On the 24 pin connector going to the Bose amp under the passengers foot well cut back the black plastic covering about two inches. You will see two pairs of wires that are taped and then twisted together. These are the high level outputs from the Bose Amp that feed the left and right mid range. left is light blue + and the dark blue -, right is orange + and dark green - . I soldered an extension wire and second tap wire into each of the new connections. I left the original wiring in place. In other words I just added a tap to each of these wires.

These four connections feed the front channels on the LC6 line level converter.

On the 8 pin connector feeding the Bose amp there are 6 used feeds. Two are power and the other is neg. There are also two pair of smaller twisted wires that feed the subwoofers (low level). There is a light blue(+) dark blue (-) set and a light green(+) dark green(-) set. Since they are low level they must bypass the LC6 and go directly to the new amp(s) low level input.

These are the two pair of wires that need to be tapped in order to feed an external self powered subwoofer!

I'll leave the choices of amps and speakers up to you. Personally, I replaced the door subwoofers with the super thin Blaupunkt subs and made a thin amp rack for the front of the cargo area so that I have lost almost no cargo space at all.

Other tips:
Tsunanami makes a multi RCA connector wire that combines upto 7 independent RCA inputs into one cable - this makes a very easy way to run the RCAs to the amps ($45).

The LC6 fits under the Bose amp with a little dremmel tool work and right angle RCA jack plugs.

Wiring the doors in the C6 is very easy once you remove the Bose 10 subwoofer. A claw type spring parts picker upper is an easy tool to use to grab the wire and run it through the rubber boot from the door into the cabin.

Summary:

There is a fair amount of ajustment that has to be done to equalize the system but once you are done you can here your tunes at 130mph+ (it is OK where I live) with the roof off!

ROCK ON!
shopdog is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-25-2005, 04:10 AM   #3
Big Steve
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Posts: 13
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Member since: Feb 2005
Location: Stuttgart Germany

My Corvette(s)
Silver C6

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ShopDog,

That is the beauty of finally posting something - you inspire folks to correct you!

So - the better answer is to tap into the signal side from the HU and then install a signal sensing switch to trigger the amps.

Actually, the sound that I am getting is pretty excellent. The amp acts as a bass blocker for the midrange keeping it protected from the low signals.

The reason that I guessed about the 800hz was by the sound of the midrange by it's self (not by good sub crossover freqs). There is no way that the midranges go to 120-250hz. Based on the sound that they cut off at, on the bottom end, was why I guessed that number.

Thanks for helping to get to the bottom of this - finally!
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Steve - C6 convert - porsche gone!
Old 07-25-2005, 11:28 AM   #4
shopdog
DC Crew
 
Posts: 331
Member #21077
Member since: Nov 2004
Location: Lawrenceville/Georgia

My Corvette(s)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve
ShopDog,

That is the beauty of finally posting something - you inspire folks to correct you!

So - the better answer is to tap into the signal side from the HU and then install a signal sensing switch to trigger the amps.

Actually, the sound that I am getting is pretty excellent. The amp acts as a bass blocker for the midrange keeping it protected from the low signals.

The reason that I guessed about the 800hz was by the sound of the midrange by it's self (not by good sub crossover freqs). There is no way that the midranges go to 120-250hz. Based on the sound that they cut off at, on the bottom end, was why I guessed that number.

Thanks for helping to get to the bottom of this - finally!
One more tip. You can tap into the antenna enable signal, pin B3, to turn on your external amps. That's the signal that powers up the Bose amp when the HU is turned on.
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