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Thread: Another LS3, T-56 swap into 1981 C3 Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-15-2019 11:42 PM
7TRoadster I like the cardboard paint savers, great idea!!!
10-14-2019 08:23 PM
Adapters for C6 seat into C3

Here are some adapters I made to mount C6 seats in my 81 C3. Earlier I replaced the deep floor pan on the drivers side with a shallow pan. The goal was to create some space for the exhaust system.

After researching several approaches to mounting the C6 seats I decided to take a crack at making my own. I wasn't crazy about the adapter "plates" that are available, so I dug around in my shop and came up with enough raw material to make the adapters. The long plate is 1/8" steel, the spacer blocks are 3/16" steel, and the "wedge" at the rear of the plates is cut from 3/4" steel square tubing.

I ditched the motorized seat adjusters from the C6 seats. Now they have fore and aft manual adjusters, the seat back recliner lever still works and so does the seat back release behind the headrest. Height is an issue with these and I wanted to keep the seat height as low as possible. I think this is about the lowest they can be mounted without serious modification of the seat frame itself.

The pictures should be self explanatory. The adapters have a couple of holes that weren't used due to me not noticing that the seat track pedestals (at the front) are not mirror images of each other. Just had to relocate the mounting hole to clear the pedestal. Maybe this will give you some ideas if you are contemplating a swap like this.

Here are the finished adapter plates:

Next stop for the seats is the upholstery shop for some custom covers. BTW does anybody need the seat motor tracks for a C6?
09-30-2019 10:06 PM
Radiator for LSx swap into 81 C3

I have a question that I could use a hand with. Pretty soon I'm going to have to pre-fit a radiator before final assembly. I was planning on using a Dewitt P/N 6139077M . That is a natural finish (aluminum) and manual transmission item.

I've been told that an OEM radiator/fan assembly from a 1998 - 2002 F body will fit with little or no modification. There is a very significant price difference between the two.

Can anyone out there confirm the fit of the F-body radiator into the late model C3?
09-28-2019 08:45 PM
Assembly begins

Ok, all cut, buffed and unwrapped... Let the assembly begin!

09-28-2019 08:39 PM
Homegrown spray booth air supply

Originally Posted by slofut View Post
Wow ZimmeJ, That looks awesome! Really nice shop, where is the overspray going?

Hi Slofut, I'll post up the air handling system I use in my "all in one" shop. Right off the bat it goes without saying that this is just a system I have come up with based on my experiences over more years than I care to think about! Also, a setup like this is not suitable for frequent or production use. It works fine for us hobbyist types that don't have a ton of money for a real spray booth and don't paint cars very often. Probably breaks all kinds of EPA laws too!

And yes, I use squirrel cage fans because they move huge quantities of air with a relatively small size. They are not ideal for the exhaust because the blades will get a buildup eventually even with purpose made spray booth filters. I'm also aware that it is not recommended to pass the exhaust fumes over an electric motor. The preferred method is to use a belt drive fan with the motor outside of the exhaust. I have a lot of experience calibrating and using LEL (Lower Explosive Limit) instruments and I can tell you with certainty that the exhaust air stream doesn't even register on the meter. I have measured it.

Again, as hobbyists, we just don't spray enough continuously for this to be a problem. Nevertheless, attempt this at your own risk if you want to try it. So there's the obligatory cautions!

I learned years ago that it is important to keep a good airflow, or "air curtain", moving over the car while painting. This will greatly reduce particle "fallout" landing on the wet paint. The air flow simply blows them away. So the next logical step was to filter the air blowing over the car. I knocked out this air supply unit in just a few hours. I used 7/16" OSB and ripped up several 1 x 4's to 2" width. I used these for the glued on cleats. That way the box can be disassembled if I decide to keep it. The fan came from a friend in the HVAC business. They are always throwing them away. This one has a 3/4 hp motor and moves about 1500 cfm. I got a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and cut a piece that would fight snugly inside the door frame of my shop. Then I cut a hole in the plywood that the box would fit into. To use it I just open the door, put the plywood in the door frame, roll the air box plenum up to and through the plywood. The filter size is 20" x 30". Here's what it looks like:

Next, on the inside I connected two 8" flexible ducts to the two adjustable 8" ducts on top of the air box. (Note: In this pic the air box is not in position in the plywood "door".)

The other end of the hoses connect to a "header" with two adjustable 8" ducts. The header is just hanging on my ladder.

That's the fresh air system. Next is the exhaust fan. It needs to have a bigger fan with higher capacity than the fresh air fan. I found an almost new 1 hp 2600 cfm fan online for $35. Then I built a box around it that is open on 3 sides. The 4th side has a plenum that sticks out at the bottom of my shop overhead door. It is important that the exhaust fan moves much more than the fresh air fan. The openings on the exhaust fan box are 20" x 30". I have them covered with commercial spray booth exhaust filter material.

This setup works very well. I still get a few trash "nits" in the paint but nowhere near what I get painting with no fans at all.

Another easy to make and very effective device is the light pole in this pic. I found the LED lights at Home Depot. They are very bright and come in sets of 2 lights. They come with mounting brackets, interconnect cords and power cords. The pole is nothing more than the 2" x 3/4" strips of 1 x 4's. Drilled a hole through them so that the top pole can be angled. The bottom pole is anchored by the white plastic bucket that is about half full of concrete mix. I just mixed up the concrete, stuck the lower pole in it and waited for the concrete to set up. They aren't hard to move and are very hard to tip over. Carefully placed artificial light is the key to applying just the right amount of spray. You have to be able to see the reflection of what you spray or you will most likely have dryspray or a run.

09-28-2019 01:18 PM
slofut Wow ZimmeJ, That looks awesome! Really nice shop, where is the overspray going?
09-23-2019 08:38 PM
7TRoadster Fantastic, nice work!!!
09-23-2019 06:58 PM
Paint is on

Finally!! Been a struggle to get to this point, many detours along the way. But perseverance pays... I can't tell you how much I want to get started with assembly!

09-21-2019 06:16 PM
Originally Posted by 7TRoadster View Post
I have some badly needed clean-up you can come and do.

No problem! Go ahead and get started, then look for me coming down the road!!
09-20-2019 08:49 PM
7TRoadster I have some badly needed clean-up you can come and do.
09-20-2019 06:48 PM
Originally Posted by The Torch View Post
Looks like you might have some clear weather. Looking forward to the blue pics

Yeah, got rained out today. Humidity so thick you could cut it with a knife. Supposed to be that way all weekend so maybe early next week. Spent the day doing some badly needed clean up in the shop.
09-20-2019 03:07 AM
The Torch Looks like you might have some clear weather. Looking forward to the blue pics
09-20-2019 12:47 AM
7TRoadster Cool, can't wait to see them.
09-19-2019 10:04 PM
Originally Posted by 7TRoadster View Post
Contours look really great Zim, surface looks pristine, nice job.

How did the doors, hood, top and bumpers all line up after assembly? Did you have to block them down much across the gaps?

They actually lined up very well, did not have to do anything major anywhere. Still, I think it was worth taking the time to double check. Luckily, this car was very pristine, no crashes or body repairs. I did chicken out on painting the hood and doors separately even though I had already painted them. I got to worrying about the paint not matching, especially this bright metallic blue. So I took your (and several other folks) advice and re-sanded and prepped them. That is WAY easier than having to re-prep the entire car should a mismatch occur. Didn't take very long at all.

So this time I will paint everything all at once, with the doors and hood in their installed orientation. Going to hit it in the morning unless it starts raining here in the heartland. Hope to have some blue colored pics to post tomorrow!
09-19-2019 09:40 PM
7TRoadster Contours look really great Zim, surface looks pristine, nice job.

How did the doors, hood, top and bumpers all line up after assembly? Did you have to block them down much across the gaps?
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