Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums - Reply to Topic
 
 
Go Back   Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums > C3 Corvette Forums > C3 Corvette > Another LS3, T-56 swap into 1981 C3
Register Forums Garage Garage Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance Advertise

Notices

C3 Corvette
C3 Corvette General | Technical | Performance | Aftermarket | Discussions

Other sections:
Corvettes Classifieds
Corvette Detailing & Car Care
Corvette Audio/Video/Radar
General Automotive/Shop/Tools
Corvette Performance Driving/Racing

( Sponsored by: Zip Corvette Parts )

Shops/Tuners
Custom Image Corvettes
A&A Corvette
Corvette tuner

Interior
Corvette aftermarket products

Insurance



Parts & Products
Race Ramps
Edelbrock
ATI/Procharger
Corvetteguys.com
Melrose Motorsports
Parts Taxi
Airaid
Pfadt Racing
Madvette Motorsports
Hi-tech Custom Concepts
Corvette Garage
Corvette Parts and Accessories
Corvette Car Care Products
Corvette HID

Tracks/Schools
Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Driving
Corvette driving school

Wheels/Tires
Cray Wheels

Services
BADWERKS.com
Thread: Another LS3, T-56 swap into 1981 C3 Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (12 CHARACTERS MAXIMUM), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
City / State / Country?
Where you live
What kind of Corvette(s) do you own?
This field is not required.
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 08:40 PM
zimmej51
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7TRoadster View Post
Chevelles, Camaros, GTO's of the late '60s-early 70s have body bolt kits available that would have the bolts your asking about in larger quantities. They are not an exact match but they are close enough to work and look pretty close.

I may also have some stashed away someplace around here. If you want to PM me a list and quantities, I'll see what I have.

Thanks 7TRoadster, I'll check out some of the GM bolt kits I've seen. If I run across some special ones I will PM you. Meanwhile, the project is moving along just a little more slowly than I'd like due to what seems to be never ending chemo. But I'll get it done!
08-17-2019 09:27 PM
7TRoadster Chevelles, Camaros, GTO's of the late '60s-early 70s have body bolt kits available that would have the bolts your asking about in larger quantities. They are not an exact match but they are close enough to work and look pretty close.

I may also have some stashed away someplace around here. If you want to PM me a list and quantities, I'll see what I have.
08-17-2019 07:28 PM
zimmej51
Need a good source for replacement C3 fasteners

Greetings to all! I'm still working on the C3 project, I'm just at one of those stages where there aren't a lot of pictures or ideas, just a bunch of laborious body blocking and filling.


Does anyone have a good source for replacement fasteners for the C3? I have spent quite a bit of time on line searching but many of the fasteners are not listed anywhere.



For example, the #10-24 nut, 3/8" hex, with a free spinning 5/8" dia washer appears to be non-existent from every vendor I have queried. This is the nut that is used all over the place on the 81 C3, especially on the bumper covers and air dam. Luckily Zip Corvette and several others offer a bumper fastener "kit" that has the nuts. But I'd have to buy 2 or 3 of the bumper kits to get enough of them.


I'm not doing a "correct" restoration, so I know that many of the fasteners can be replaced with something close. But several of them are unique and serve a purpose. Like the #10-24 nuts mentioned above. The 5/8" free spinning washer is actually conical shaped and provides a large contact surface area to attach the bumper cover. The cover has large oval shaped holes so that the fit can be adjusted. A few suppliers have the nut with a smaller washer. Yes, I know, I could use a plain 10-24 nut with a separate washer but I would rather have something a little closer to the OEM part.



Anyone recommend a good source for fasteners?
07-24-2019 08:42 PM
zimmej51
Feather Fill Primer

Had a good day today. With the help of a couple of dedicated friends we got all the black epoxy primer prepped for the Feather Fill primer. Went so well I decided to spray all the parts except the main body. It's on schedule for tomorrow I believe.


The SPI Epoxy actually sands very well although it is not a high solids primer, hence the use of Feather Fill by Evercoat which is most definitely a high solids primer. I've never used it before but wanted a polyester based primer since it's going over SMC panels (thanks 7TRoadster!).



Feather Fill is essentially a very thin Bondo type stuff. It is activated with the clear (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide I believe) stuff from a plastic tube. Everything about it is just like polyester filler but much thinner.



Learned a couple of things:


1. You will need a big tip on the gun. The largest one I have is a 1.8, and I'd consider that a minimum. You will have a hard time getting anything out of a smaller tip. This might be a good job for one of those cheapo Harbor Freight guns, just be sure you can get a LARGE tip on it.



2. The instructions say to not leave any material in the gun for more than 45 minutes. In the mid 80's to low 90's temperature range, it's more like 20 minutes. This stuff is difficult to clean out of a spray gun. I use the DeVilbiss DeKups system, so cleanup is minimized, but just running gun cleaner or lacquer thinner through the gun WILL NOT remove all of the Feather Fill. The gun cleaner barely touched it so I broke out my stash of DuPont 3661 lacquer thinner which is some pretty hot stuff. It did better, but still wasn't totally effective in removing the stuff. So, if you spray this stuff, plan on getting it on the car and out of the gun quickly. I recommend removing the tip, needle, and anything else that was in contact with the Feather Fill. The primer was not completely set up, but has to be mechanically removed with gun brushes, compressed air, and solvent. Failure to thoroughly clean the gun will ruin it for sure.




















BTW, the Dolphin Glaze and SPI epoxy seems to have completely cured the fisheye problem I had before on the hood. Only time will tell if everything stays in place. The odd color in the pic is because of lighting and sun shining in through some windows. It is actually light grey, just like the other things in the pic.
07-22-2019 08:38 PM
zimmej51
Refinishing Bumper Covers

Finally got the front and back bumper covers prepped for epoxy primer then base color/clear. I have to start another chemo session a week from today (29 July) so I have 6 days. Had a conversation with myself and I am going to get the C3 paint phase DONE! When I got home today I finished prepping the bumper covers and got them sprayed with epoxy primer following the recommendations from Southern Polyurethane.


The torn area on the front cover was a mess. It looked like someone had attempted a repair with super glue, spot putty and some rattlecan paint that didn't match very well. It would have far easier if the previous owner had not attempted the repair!



Here's a few pics...














07-18-2019 09:26 AM
zimmej51
Where to sell C3 original parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by lsejlowe View Post
Classifieds is technically the right place for this. However, there's not much traffic through there, so I'd recommend a thread here in the C3 section to alert people to the fact that you posted a list. Not sure if that's technically "by the book" but it's the best way for a DC member to take advantage of quality used parts for sale!

Thanks, will do!
07-17-2019 09:40 PM
lsejlowe
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmej51 View Post
Greetings to all! I have a pretty long list of original parts that I removed from my 81 C3. I'm thinking they might be of use to someone needing original parts for 80-82 C3. It's a pretty long list and none of it is junk.


Is the Corvette Classifieds the proper place to list the items? Or is there a better way? I would prefer to make them available to members of this forum. I will sell the stuff for a VERY reasonable price to anyone on this forum. I need to clear out some space in the shop. Again, no junk.


I'll be glad to compile a list of everything I have if someone is interested.


Thanks!
Classifieds is technically the right place for this. However, there's not much traffic through there, so I'd recommend a thread here in the C3 section to alert people to the fact that you posted a list. Not sure if that's technically "by the book" but it's the best way for a DC member to take advantage of quality used parts for sale!
07-16-2019 07:38 PM
zimmej51
Where to sell C3 original parts

Greetings to all! I have a pretty long list of original parts that I removed from my 81 C3. I'm thinking they might be of use to someone needing original parts for 80-82 C3. It's a pretty long list and none of it is junk.


Is the Corvette Classifieds the proper place to list the items? Or is there a better way? I would prefer to make them available to members of this forum. I will sell the stuff for a VERY reasonable price to anyone on this forum. I need to clear out some space in the shop. Again, no junk.


I'll be glad to compile a list of everything I have if someone is interested.


Thanks!
07-11-2019 08:12 PM
zimmej51
Tip for the day - Blind Rivets

Thought I'd share something with you today. You've probably noticed that the C3 has those large head aluminum blind rivets all over the place. These are the rivets that are commonly called "pop" rivets. Those that penetrate the cabin area are normally "closed" meaning the rivet end is sealed. Others are "open" and look like the blind rivets you have probably used at one time or another.

They are all aluminum, in several different lengths, and have a head much larger than common rivets. The head diameters are 3/8" and 5/8", the rivet itself is 3/16" in diameter, and the grip range varies depending on where the rivet is located on the car.



Here in the Heartland they are not commonly found in local supply houses. I don't think they are particularly rare, but I doubt you will find them at the local big box store. I finally located a source that stocks the rivets and they look to be virtually identical to the OEM rivets.



I don't know what the forum rules are regarding sharing information about parts sources, but if I get "gonged" then I guess I'll know not to do it again! However, sometimes the parts labels accidentally get into the pictures, and sometimes the labels show the source, description, and partnumber. And sometimes you love the price.


Since I completely disassembled the car, there really weren't any left to photograph. Then I remembered there were a couple of them on the rear bumper cover that appeared to not be fully seated. So I snapped a pic of a new rivet next to an original rivet to compare the appearance. They are very, very close to original. I doubt anyone other than a concourse judge would be able to tell the difference.


Couple of tips for use:


1. Clamp the pieces to be riveted together. Blind rivets are not designed to pull the pieces together. Sometimes you will get a gap (like the ones on my original bumper cover) or even worse, the mandrel can expand the rivet between the two pieces.


2. For C3 applications, be sure and use all aluminum rivets, including the stem that snaps off. In just about every case, the rivet(s) on a C3 have plastic of some sort on one or both sides. Steel rivets, or aluminum rivets with a steel stem will crush the plastic.


3. If you are drilling a new hole for the 3/16" rivet, use a #11 drill bit. The size of the hole is critical for the rivet to work properly. You did order that set of number and letter drills, right?


And here's another tidbit of information about blind rivets. The size is often expressed in what they call "Trade Size", consisting of two numbers side by side. The first number is the diameter of the rivet shank (NOT the head) in 1/32" increments while the second number is the maximum grip range expressed in 1/16" increments.


For example, if you see trade size 68 on a sack of blind rivets, the shank is 6/32, or 3/16". The maximum grip range is 8/16, or 1/2".


That's it for now, hope this information is useful for someone!








07-09-2019 09:57 PM
zimmej51
Pinholes in bare SMC hood

Follow up to post 125 about pinholes in the smc hood. The Dolphin Glaze appears to be working perfectly. As I mentioned, the stuff is kind of like real thin Bondo. You mix it up and squeegee it over the area(s) that have the pinholes, scraping the excess off. After it cures (only takes about 15-20 minutes cure time before sanding) gently block with about 150 grit. Keep going until the glaze becomes slightly transparent, then switch to 220 or so.



When you squeeze out the Dolphin Glaze I recommend squirting out a bead 2 to 3 inches long. Then add a bit of polyester activator and stir until the hardener is uniformly distributed in the glaze. This stuff sets up rapidly so work quickly and have a plan.

Remember to squeegee it out very thin. We aren't leveling here, we are filling pinholes. And just like ordinary body putty, once it starts to set up you need to STOP! Put your squeegee down and walk away until it's cured.


Couple of pics below. If you look closely you can see where the pinholes have been sealed. Based on my experience I'd say that I will get to repeat the process several times. A little tedious but the finished process is worth it. You can't get more out of something than you put into it!









07-09-2019 09:28 PM
zimmej51
Bumper Cover Repair (Continued)

Think I've got the urethane bumper repair (re post #121) done. The 3M 05887 bonding adhesive worked very well and has very good sanding characteristics. I used 3M 05907 adhesion promoter under all of the 05887.



Got a couple pics below but they make the surfaces look a lot rougher than they actually are. The repair passed the "wet test". For those that don't know, the wet test involves squirting some water from a hand held pump sprayer onto the area in question. The water will briefly coat the surface and looks like clear coat. By holding a light source just right you can see the reflection on the surface and easily spot high and low places. If the water tends to bead up try adding a very small amount of dishwashing soap to the water.



I think this repair will be a keeper, but you don't really know for sure until 2 or 3 years have passed.





07-09-2019 08:35 PM
lsejlowe enjoying following along, so thanks for posting! I don't think I have the skill or patience for bodywork, but seeing all this effort makes me appreciate it that much more!
07-08-2019 07:08 PM
zimmej51
A bit of humor

For those that might be interested, thought I'd post a picture of a bankruptcy starter kit....





Ok, that's it, back to work!!
07-08-2019 07:05 PM
zimmej51
Pinholes in bare SMC hood

Hood prep part deaux.... I got the entire car stripped to the bare SMC a while back and wanted to get the SMC sealed to preclude contamination since my schedule is a little unpredictable. Consulted several times with the folks at Southern Polyurethane (SPI) regarding their epoxy primer. They assured me the epoxy layer is a good thing to do and is 100% compatible with SMC on the bottom side and polyester products on the top side. So, this is my deviation from the excellent refinishing guide posted by 7TRoadster. I'll let you know how it goes, good or bad.


The rest of the car came out beautifully, but I expected to have a problem with the hood due to a proliferation of tiny "dimples" on the surface, similar to a golf ball but a lot smaller. And I wasn't wrong. Anyone who has sprayed at least 1 rattlecan of paint knows that a pinhole will cause a fisheye 99% of the time. I think it's due to the surface tension of the solvents in the paint - it tries to "walk" out of the pinhole creating the fisheye appearance. The consensus on this forum is that the dimples were likely caused by excessive mold release when the hood was made.


And, no surprise, looked like a school of minnows staring up at me. So, the second deviation from the paint sticky. I've dealt with this a LOT in one of my other hobbies, big RC airplanes. The fiberglass fuselages are notorious for pinholes. I've always used Dolphin Glaze with good success. It's a polyester based product, about like very thin polyester body putty. Sanded well into the epoxy primer and have spread the stuff very thinly over the surface. Then I'll repeat as necessary, block and hit it with another coat of epoxy. If you look closely at the pic you can see the pinholes. Since the pic I have applied the Dolphin Glaze. I'll keep you posted...


07-04-2019 06:55 PM
zimmej51
Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer

At least it's all one color again! Everything primed with epoxy primer. Uneventful, but took about twice as long as it should have, I still run out of gas pretty easily. A couple of my best friends showed up and took up the slack, not sure I could have gotten it all done today without their help!


All came out well except for the hood. I'm not happy with it yet. A couple pages back in my thread I posted some pics that showed the odd "texture" in the SMC that was revealed after stripping. The consensus was that it was most likely caused by excessive mold release when the hood was formed. It has zillions of tiny "craters" that triggered fisheyes. And I aggravated the problem by applying the primer a little too thick. Oh well, like a friend once told me, that's why they make sandpaper!

I'm also considering using Dolphin Glaze since it's a polyester based product. I've used it before, but never on SMC or fiberglass panels. Anyone here ever used it on SMC or fiberglass?

















This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:29 AM.




Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2003-2011, DigitalCorvettes.com - All Rights Reserved