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Thread: C3 door gap question. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-14-2014 12:40 PM
slofut Waaay better than mine!!
12-14-2014 11:33 AM
Pops71lives I'm a little sore. I suppose rolling around on the garage floor will do that. I appreciate all the tips. It will take a little fine tuning after all the seals are put in but I feel like some good progess was achieved.
Thanks guys,
Scott

Untitled by mckees420, on Flickr
12-12-2014 11:20 AM
slofut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pops71lives View Post
Game plan - I got the bolt out. New cage nuts arrived yesterday. Just turned the heater on in the garage, took an early day. Hoist the car, remove mounts # 3 and 4. Clean areas. Weld new ones on in the am and reset body with a clean slate. Using the tips and ideas you guys gave me is a huge help. Will try and get the door "rough aligned" in the morning and post some pics. The afternoon is Army Navy. have to be done by game time. Go Navy!
Scott
Need a tv in the shop!!
12-12-2014 11:02 AM
Pops71lives Game plan - I got the bolt out. New cage nuts arrived yesterday. Just turned the heater on in the garage, took an early day. Hoist the car, remove mounts # 3 and 4. Clean areas. Weld new ones on in the am and reset body with a clean slate. Using the tips and ideas you guys gave me is a huge help. Will try and get the door "rough aligned" in the morning and post some pics. The afternoon is Army Navy. have to be done by game time. Go Navy!
Scott
12-12-2014 06:55 AM
slofut Scott,
Don't forget... the shims adjust the door in and out on plane with the front fender and the rear quarter, that's all. If you have too many shims you'll have the door sitting proud of the fender and likely a conflict at the pointy part that'll crack paint or worse when you open it. Also, the door striker isn't used to lift the rear of the door or for alignment other than the depth that the door closes into the rear jamb. Fwiw, on the passenger door my lower fore-aft adjustment in the cowl is all the way to the rear, the pic of the see-thru C3 I noticed that pass door is the same.
How's it coming?
Bill
12-10-2014 10:58 AM
69MyWay i think you are getting great advice here.

Just FYI - I feel for ya, because I'm doing the first real rough fit of the doors on her 69 vert. Considering I replaced the bird cage with a 78 - mixed and matched many other parts including re-skinned the doors with 1975 skins...everything has moved.

I used the wood shim under the door frame to the rocker to do the initial set. I also had the bolts backed off and went through several shim variations until I found one I liked. I'm also in the process of grinding and filling the door gap on the body side to perfect it.

Now...I'm doing the panel to panel check and fill - to get it to look as if it was all carved out of one complete sheet of glass.

yes, the bushings and shims will change things too - and for each place you make an adjustment another will need to be considered.

Don't forget to put your door striker in - you want to make sure it will properly latch at the place you set it.

Good luck and have fun. This is a HUGE detail that is worth taking your time.
12-10-2014 06:14 AM
slofut
Quote:
Originally Posted by binx View Post
I've seen a couple of friends use an engine hoist, leveler and 1" nylon straps to support and adjust angles when installing doors.

Just say'in.
Yep, and a floor jack and a block of wood comes in handy also, to serve as an extra pair of hands.
12-10-2014 04:20 AM
binx I've seen a couple of friends use an engine hoist, leveler and 1" nylon straps to support and adjust angles when installing doors.

Just say'in.
12-09-2014 08:43 PM
Pops71lives I'll certianly use some of the mentioned tips and tricks. I spent about 4 hours in the garage last night and removed #2. I may have invented some new swear words.The plan is to weld new cage nut and use the suggestions. I think a fresh look will help as well. For just a few minutes there sanity was in question. Thank you guys very much for the info., it is appreciated.
12-09-2014 04:42 PM
slofut Another consideration...
With my doors closed, pick it up with my 2 post lift at the rear crossmember in front of the tires, and at the curve under the gills, and the rear door gap at the top opens about 3/8 inch! Frame flexes a lot, so I got to where I would adjust then shake the car around and re-check. Don't try to adjust doors unless it's sitting firmly on 4 wheels and settled.
12-09-2014 10:02 AM
Sly Vette I followed the same procedure as Slofut,using wood shims along the way. I am convinced that even if you take note of the shim stack at each mounting point it will still take a fair amount of tweaking to get it right. The body just seems to be too flexable.
Just another in a long list of things that the steel body guys don't have to deal with...
12-08-2014 02:31 PM
Pops71lives Good thoughts and I appreiate the info. I think what I am going to have to do is hoist the body..Replace the cage bolts after I cut the spinner on #2 and start over. I think I have things far enough out it would be beneficial to start fresh. I tried using the hinge adjustments but it's too far off. I really wish I had replaced the nuts when the body was off. I checked and rethreaded after powder coating and they felt pretty good. Clearly I was wrong.
12-08-2014 07:17 AM
wabco40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pops71lives View Post
I've read through several posts and at this point I may be suffering from brain drain. I have the body back on the frame and the rear of the door is to high to close the door at the rear upper portion. Looking at the dooe it would be the top right corner. I noted the shims and replaced exactly the same as they were at removal. Any thoughts? Several hours today messing with shim placement/removal. Little frustration setting in. To complicate matters cage nut number 2 decided to start spinning on itself so I have to address that somehow.
If the back of the door is sitting high What does your door gaping look like?
Is it even or wider at the top. How about the front door to fender gap? Is this even or wider at the bottom
Have you tried to adjust the door at the hinges? By loosening the bolts on the A pillar and in the front of the door it can be adjusted up or down, forward or back or tilted. Also the striker pin can be loosened and positioned to suit.
When I put the body back onto my frame I adjust the door hinges and the striker pin to fit the door the best I could. I then made slight adjustments with the body shims to set the gaps. By removing a shim from #3 mount will slightly close the gap at the top of the door rear and open it at the bottom. The opposite will happen by adding a shim. However I should imagine there is a limit on how far this can be done!!!
There are also shims under the the hinges, these allow the door to be tilted in or out. From memory the hinge bolt holes on the A pillar are slotted length ways and the bolt holes in the front of the door are slotted up and down.
Once all the adjustments are understood then it's not that hard to get the doors fitting well.
12-08-2014 06:34 AM
slofut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pops71lives View Post
All hardware including cushions and spacers are new. My guess is this is a lesson in patience.
Your guess is correct.
As I learned in school, you align the rear section on the frame and work forwards. As the rear door jamb and the sill are an angle in one piece, you align the rear gap first, then align the front fender to the front of the door. Works fine with steel bodied cars with adjustable fenders.
On my vette, keeping in mind no body-off, I put the drivers door back on, put the striker on loosely, and centered the door in the opening as best I could so that the height was correct (height adj in the door, fore aft adj in the cowl) and it would close fairly close at the back. Then aligned the striker to the door loosely but so it would latch. Then, with the door closed and latched, I loosened all the hinge bolts, and from the outside I could see where it needed to go. I used wood shims under the door between the door and sill to get height close then shifted fore and aft with wood pry tools to get it close, then got in the car from the other side and tightened the cowl bolts.
I got lucky and it was pretty close and only took some minor tweeking after this. All in all about 45 min.

NOW, on the passenger side, I now have probably 5 hrs time in alignment over a period of several days and it's def not perfect! But it's as good as it will get. The final alignment on that side will have to be finished with fiberglass and filler.

On the pass side, I went from adding shims from original, to subtracting shims from what they were originally, and up down and back and forth a million times. The top-front door fender gap looks like crap on my car. But I'm not realigning fenders to fix it!
12-08-2014 02:59 AM
Pops71lives All hardware including cushions and spacers are new. My guess is this is a lesson in patience.
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