Lowering the C5 - A Step by Step Walkthrough
This is a picture by picture crash course in lowering the front of your C5 yourself. These steps are necessary to cut the front bushings or to remove the lowering bolt all together.
-Note- before hand you will need to make some ramps that are at least 3" tall so that you can remove your jack from under your car once it is lowered.
The first two pics show what the suspension looks like before anything is done.
At this point I jacked up the suspension so that I could unbolt and disconnect the upper a-arm
This pic shows after the a-arm has been disconnected and the suspension has been lowered down again.
Then unbolt the lower part of the shocks (2 bolts) and you will need a deep socket wrench to reach the bottom of each of the bolts.
Then disconnect the sway bar (next 2 pics)
Loosen the top part of the sway bar bolts to swing the bolt out of the bottom part (next 2 pics)
Finally now you can remove the lowering bolt or raise it to its highest point to cut the bushings. It has a reverse style thread pattern, so to lower the car rotate it counterclockwise. (Note to remove the bolt you may have to jack up the leaf spring to gain clearance)
(Be careful not to damage the leaf spring by using a small piece of wood to protect it)
When putting everything back together, reverse the pattern that was used to take it apart. To reconnect the top A-arm use an allen wrench when tightening the bolt to keep it from just spinning.
Optional for removing the shock absorber totally
If you can do the front, the rear is so easy I won't even have to explain it. (I also forgot to take pics :rolleyes: ) I did mine with some longer bolts than stock to get a 2.5-3" drop in the rear.
***New*** Lowered With bolts in front completely removed.....
***Newer*** New I-Forged wheels. I didn't have to make one adjustment to the suspension. In Fact I found out that even though the new wheels are 18/19's where the stock were 17/18's, that the new wheels are the same height as the stock wheels. This is due to lower profile tires in both the front and rear of the car.
I'll have pictures of how the car looks once it stops raining long enough for me to get the car washed:rolleyes:
Great write up and detailed pics!
Glad you remembered to add the part about lowering your car onto ramps afterword so that you can remove the jack....
Nice write up and pics!!!! I removed my adjusters a week ago.A lil disappointed.Only went down around 1/4" more.With the adjusters out it's a lot more noisier(creeks and thumps over bumps).I really wouldn't recomend this to anyone to get your car any lower.Going with coilovers this winter and replacing the rubber bushings with poly ones.
Just for your info gang, that screw you see there in the leaf spring can be removed and your car will drop more because theres a rubber pad thats connected with it, if you choose to slam your car, take the center brackets that hold the spring onto the frame of the car off, pull the spring out to either side, then remove those rubber pads on top of the spring from each side of the spring, put everything back together and you'll get an ultra slammed look. :thumbsup:
This is after the adjusters were removed.Still not low enough!!!!
I also removed the bolts/adjusters.....i also did something else.
If you look at picture #8,follow the spring toward the oil pan,you can see the bottom half of the spring bracket.(one on each side of coarse).
I removed the bracket,and removed 75% of the rubber from the top of the spring,and glued it to the rubber thats already on the lower half of the spring,then re-installed the bracket(s).This got me were i wanted to be.
Before i glued the rubber together,(didn't want to bend the bracket),i drilled a small hole thru the two pieces and stuck a pin to keep the two rubber pieces from seperating,i doubt it would have,but i went for the overkill.At this point is when i realized that theres not enough threads on the tie-rod to get an alignment.I made a grade 8 threaded coupler to work for mine,but theres companys that sell bump-steer kits and extended tie-rod ends for this purpoe.The only other option,is coil-overs..I had to cut my air dam in half (side to side),and even now,the air-dam rides about 1 1/2" off the ground,good thing it's on a hinge,i scrape that thing everywere,2 1/2 years,same air-dam/spoiler.
Yep they are 19/20 combo!!!! I had 18" CCW's before.I sort of miss the 335's on the rear.The 305's are big,but not enough.That's a good idea about the spring mounts.I'm going with Rippie coilovers,VB ploy bushings,LAPD 3/8" backbone,and a Baer bump steer kit.My suspension should be good then.Post some pics of yours!!! Mine seemed lower with my 18's. Will be about an inch lower when all the new stuff goes on.My front fender will be at 24.5" to the edge .At 25.25 now.
I'll try to get some later today,i'm not going to the parade as it's pouring outside right now,as a matter of fact,i should be leaving right about now.Oh well..
Heres a pic of ALLKARs ride,19/20 combo with coil overs.Is this how low you want to go?I talked with him a couple times,my car is 1" higher from the ground to the top of the fender lips than his.I could maybe go down another 1/2" inch,thats it without the coilovers.
I need the 19/20s to fill in the finger gap i have now.i would run a nitto 30 series tire on front and rear..
I'll go take some pics later when it clears up.I won't be able to post them until later,you'll probably be asleep by then.
That suspension combo you listed sounds choice.
The backbone is a good idea too,do you road race?
EDIT...sorry dude,i forgot to post the pic..
Yep it's ALLKAR that turned me on to the coilovers!!! He recomended the Rippie ones. Don't take it to autocross events.I like ripping down twisties,so I want it to handle awesome.Like having Porsches try to keep up or guys in crotch rocket that think they are Rossi or Duhamel !!!!! I'll post pics as I'm installing all the parts.Sure wish I was on the Island and could drive my car all the time.Snowed here Friday then rained all day yesterday.Got to love Chicago winter.Probably be 75 by the end of the week.
Since you guys seem to have done this quite a bit, I had a question. I am in the process of lowering my '04 Z06. I didn't replace the back bolts and just adjusted them down to two threads. I also don't want to replace the front bolts, but I have no idea how far or how many threads should be showing to compensate for the amount I have lowered in the back. Any words of advice?
Thanks in advance,
and by the way, be careful spending too much time talking to hawaii 5-lo, he's dangerous, Todd's the one that got me infected with the ultra low bug in the first place:D
never too low, I'm just gettin started:thumbsup:
Thanks for the quick reply. However, I'm not sure what you mean by three threads on the front. I don't want to sound too much like I don't know what I am doing here if I hadn't already, but based on what I am seeing, as it rotate the bolt counterclockwise, the bolt rotates up eventually tightening up because it is hitting the bushings. You think I should stop there? Sorry for all the detailed questions, but I really want to at least get the front lowered the right way the first time without hackin anything.
You know what man, I'm an idiot!:rolleyes: In the front I tightened them until they stopped, then just backed em off a half a turn or two. It was the back that I had originally left 3 threads. See, you know more than you think! My bad, sorry about that. Two many exhaust fumes and g-forces:D :laughing:
If you do end up getting longer bolts, it's a little more "adjust til it's right". With the stock rear bolts, theres enough of a gap left (between wheel and fender) that you won't notice if its uneven from side to side (an eighth of an inch or two), but when you close that gap, it becomes a litlle more noticable, and then it's just little adjustments until int's perfect! Really easy.
Don't forget, when you first put the car back down after playing with stuff, go for a little "spirited" ride, cause it will settle ALOT more. You'll be surprised. When I first lowered mine, it didnt seem like much of a difference, but after a couple miles, and a few hard turns, things settled and I was amazed at the difference in stance.:thumbsup:
Thanks sherriff. One front wheel down and one more to go. I think I will go ahead and end up getting the bolts for the rear at a later date.
Thanks again dude.
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