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Old 10-30-2012, 02:23 PM   #2
Junkman2008
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Re-installation


Before you install your cylinder heads, you are going to want to have them checked out. They may be slightly warped, especially if your engine overheated at some point. The cylinder heads may need to be shaved to ensure that they are perfectly flat. DO NOT skip this step. Have your heads inspected and machined if necessary by a quality shop. I paid about $180 to have my inspected and shaved. They removed .0006 (thousandths) of an inch to make them perfect. Not much at all and that did not change any characteristics of my motor.


Important

Do not reuse the cylinder head bolts. Install NEW cylinder head bolts during assembly.

Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).

The cylinder head gasket must be installed in the proper direction and position.



Caution

Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.



Notice

Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.



Here's a picture from the service manual which shows the cylinder head locating pins and how they are supposed to be inserted into the block (just in case yours are removed or come out).




Step 1. Clean the engine block head bolt holes (if required). Thread repair tool J 42385-107 may be used to clean the threads of the old threadlocking material.

I got myself a spiral wire brush and used brake cleaning fluid to clean out my bolt holes. Then I used my fancy vacuum cleaner with a small tube attachment to suck everything out of the holes. Some people will use their old bolts to clean the holes by running them in and out of the bolt holes. It is imperative that you get EVERYTHING out of those bolt holes before reassembly. Failure to do so could cause another leak to develop. The next steps are the way the service manual has you do it. Make sure you are wearing your safety glasses if you do it this way!


Step 2. Spray cleaner GM U.S. P/N 12346139, P/N 12377981, Canada P/N 10953463, or equivalent into the hole.

Step 3. Clean the cylinder head holes with compressed air

Step 4. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.


Before performing the next step, make sure that you clean ALL of the old gasket off the engine block. Failure to do so will result in another leak! Here's what mine looked like after I cleaned it. It's the driver's side but you get the drift. I used a soft scrubby pad and some Simple Green. DO NOT spray Simple Green directly on the engine. Spray it on the soft scrubby sponge and use that to clean the surface. If Simple Green is left sitting on aluminum long enough, it can cause pitting and it will eat at your gaskets.




Step 5. Install the NEW cylinder head gasket onto the locating pins.

Pay special attention to the orientation of the new gasket and make sure that you install the correct side facing upward! See the pictures below. These are of the driver's side but the wording on the gaskets are what you need to pay special attention to.


Important

When properly installed, the tab on the right cylinder head gasket will be located left of center, or closer to the front of the engine, and the words "This Side Up", and the engine displacement, will be visible.













Step 6. Inspect the gasket for proper installation.

Step 7. Install the cylinder head onto the locating pins and the gasket.

Be careful not to drop the heads and gouge anything!


Step 8. Install NEW cylinder head bolts.

Hand tighten them into their respective holes. Here's the layout again if you have forgotten.




Step 9. Tighten the cylinder head bolts.

Okay, here comes the fun part!!!

If you have never used an angle torque gauge, WATCH THIS VIDEO! It not only explains how to use the thing, it also explains why you are tightening the bolts to the degree that you are, and why you cannot reuse your old bolts. I found this video to be invaluable given the amount of information contained within it. Also, the guy in the video explains everything so well that even I understood it. Remember, I'm the guy who didn't even know what a head gasket was when I started this repair!



Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.



Here is your torque sequence:




Here are your torque values:
  1. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
  2. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 36660-A .
  3. Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence using J 36660-A .
  4. Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.


Step 10. Install the wiring harness to the clip at the rear of the cylinder head.

Step 11. Position the oil level indicator tube into place.

Step 12. Install the oil level indicator tube bolt. Tighten the oil level indicator tube bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).



Install the Exhaust Manifold


Important

Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts as specified in the service procedure. Improperly installed and/or leaking exhaust manifold gaskets may effect vehicle emissions and/or On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) II system performance.

The cylinder head exhaust manifold bolt hole threads must be clean and free of debris or threadlocking material.



Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Step 1. If necessary, install the exhaust manifold heat shield and bolts. Tighten the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts to 9 Nm (80 lb in).

Step 2. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) wide band of threadlock GM P/N 12345493 or equivalent to the threads of the exhaust manifold bolts.

My bolts came with this threadlocking compound already on the bolts. I got all my parts from my local Chevy dealer.




Step 3. Position the exhaust manifold and a NEW gasket into place.

Step 4. Install the exhaust manifold bolts.
  1. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts a first pass to 15 Nm (11 lb ft). Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts beginning with the center two bolts. Alternate from side-to-side, working toward the outside bolts.
  2. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts a final pass to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts beginning with the center two bolts. Alternate from side-to-side, working toward the outside bolts.

Step 5. Bend over the exposed edge of the exhaust manifold gasket at the front of the right cylinder head.



Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod Replacement



Important

When reusing the valvetrain components, always install the components to the original location and position.



Valve lash is net build, no valve adjustment is required.

In other words, there is no need to locate top dead center (TDC). Just drop the rods and rockers in place and tighten to spec.


Step 1. Lubricate the valve rocker arms and pushrods with clean engine oil.

Step 2. Lubricate the flange of the valve rocker arm bolts with clean engine oil. Lubricate the flange or washer surface of the bolt that will contact the valve rocker arm.

Step 3. Install the valve rocker arm pivot support.





Important!!!

Make sure that the pushrods seat properly to the valve lifter sockets.



Step 4. Install the pushrods.



Important

Make sure that the pushrods seat properly to the ends of the rocker arms.



Step 5. Install the rocker arms and bolts. DO NOT tighten the rocker arm bolts at this time.


I am going to include this next instruction because it is in the service manual, although it completely conflicts with an earlier instruction. Remember at the beginning of this section how it clearly states that the valve lash is NOT adjustable? If that is the case (and I can 100% verify that the valve lash is NOT adjustable), then step 6 is completely unnecessary. The only reason that I am going to include it is for those individuals who may be working on a engine where the valve lash IS adjustable. For everyone else, ignore step 6 and go to step 7.


Step 6. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinders 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank.


Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Step 7. With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
  • Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
  • Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).

Again, do not worry about locating TDC. Just tighten the bolts to the correct torque value.

Step 8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.

If your valve lash is not adjustable, ignore this step.

Step 9. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts.
  • Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
  • Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).


Step 10. Install the valve rocker arm covers.



Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right


Important
  • All gasket surfaces should be free of oil and other foreign material during assembly.
  • DO NOT reuse the valve rocker arm cover gasket.
  • The valve rocker arm cover bolt grommets may be reused.
  • If the oil fill tube has been removed from the rocker arm cover, install a NEW fill tube during assembly.


Step 1. If necessary, lubricate the O-ring seal of the NEW oil fill tube with clean engine oil.

Step 2. If necessary, insert the NEW oil fill tube into the rocker arm cover. Rotate the tube clockwise until locked in the proper position.

Step 3. If necessary, install the oil fill cap into the tube. Rotate the cap clockwise until locked in the proper position.

Step 4. Install a NEW gasket (1) into the valve rocker cover lip.

Step 5. Install the valve rocker arm cover onto the cylinder head.



Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Step 6. Tighten the rocker arm cover bolts.

Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb in).


Step 7. Install the ignition coil bracket.

Step 8. Apply threadlock GM P/N 12345382, Canada P/N 10953489, or equivalent to the threads of the bracket studs.

Step 9. Install the ignition coil bracket studs.

Tighten the ignition coil bracket studs to 12 Nm (106 lb in).


Step 10. Connect the ignition coil wire harness main electrical connector.

Step 11. Install the spark plug wires to the ignition coils.



Install the Spark Plugs

Step 1. Inspect each spark plug gap. Adjust each plug as needed.

Specification:

Spark plug gap: 1 524 mm (0.060 in)


Step 2. Hand start the spark plugs in the corresponding cylinders.



Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Step 3. Tighten the spark plugs.
  • For cylinder head-new: Tighten the spark plugs to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
  • For cylinder head-all subsequent installations: Tighten the spark plugs to 15 Nm (11 lb ft).


Step 4. Install the spark plug wires.


Other Torque Values

HO2 Sensor

Tighten the HO2S to 41 Nm (30 lb ft).


Exhaust Manifold Nuts

Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).


AIR Pipe Bolts

Tighten the AIR pipe bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).






That covers all of your torque values for the right side of the engine. The left side is a totally different animal. I don't know how long that is going to take me to writeup but I should get it done sometime before the new year!
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