Installing the headlamp pressure washer system is very simple from a mechanical perspective:
Step 1: Installing the high pressure pump
- Install the high pressure pump onto the reservoir, including the electrical harness connection (comes with CE4 RPO harness)
- Install the high pressure nozzles onto the bumper
- Install the high pressure water pipes from the reservoir to the front of the car
- Paint the nozzle cache to match paint of car
- Put bumper back into place.
The first step is to install the headlamp washer pump on to the existing reservoir.
It's a very simple process, you empty out the reservoir as you can see on the photo hereafter:
Be careful there's about 2 gallons of liquid if it's full, don't get stuck on a shortage of milk containers. Clean them first though
To remove the reservoir, you must start by removing the top plug that holds the neck of the reservoir. I just pushed the pin out from the wheel house. Then there are a couple of bolts to unscrew.
To pull it out you will need to remove the black cap on top, otherwise it won't go out.
Once it's out, put it on a nice stable table and drill a hole for the headlamp washer pump, in my case I took a 13/16" drill bit:
Don't forget to clean out everything in order to make sure that you get a clean reservoir
Once that's done, you can put back the reservoir back in and reconnect everything
Before closing up everything, I suggest filling up the reservoir to ensure there are no leaks in your circuits. You can also take a 12V power supply and connect it to the pump (which I ultimately did to ensure that were no leaks).
Step 2: Installing the high pressure nozzles
Next step is to install the headlamp washer system on the bumper, in order to do that all you have to do is drill some holes in the bumper just below the headlamps.
You should get something that looks like this for the hole, and with the headlamp washer installed:
As for the pipe per say I stuck it in the bumper as you can see on the photo:
I did not fully mount the pipe, which is in fact constituted of three parts. I put the two parts that connect to the nozzles in the bumper and the third pipe I attached to the pressure pump. I joined the pipes once the bumper had been put back into place and I then clipped the pipe firmly into place so that it doesn't move around.
Step 3: Install the high pressure water pipes from the reservoir to the front of the car
This is a very simple and straight forward operation; the pipe runs from the high pressure water pump to the front left pressure washer.
It is attached to the CE4 harness that powers the high pressure water pump, this electrical harness runs along the structural beam that supports the engine and the car.
The CE4 harness has special pipe attachments installed at the factory.
The high pressure pipe is visible in the photos hereafter between the alternator and the over spill reservoir, right next to the new harness:
Here the pipe is dangling at the front end of the car
Here the pipe has been attached to the harness:
Step 4: Painting the nozzle covers
The next step consists in painting the covers, with the base, the color coat, and the clear coat:
Once the paint is nice and hard you can put clip it on, once you clipped them one, you can remove the white tag on the headlamp washers that prevents them from going completely in.
This tag is just a packing/shipping thing, to be removed once installed.
Now it is important to understand that installing the headlamp washer system doesn't mean it will work. The BCM requires programming in order for the headlamp washer system to be enabled.
Step 5: Re-installing the bumper
Now at this point in time the bumper should be installed back on the car and the high pressure piping should be firmly attached to the harness and chassis of the car.
I strongly suggest doing a pressure test to ensure that the everything is installed correctly and that there are no leaks. The high pressure pump is a 12V pump, as such providing 12V to ti's terminals will make it work - be careful not to invert the polarity
I purchased for 10$ a connector to do the testing but it is perfectly feasible without.
Installing the front bumper is easy and straight forward - doing the reverse of the removal procedure.
I proceeded by putting into place the bottom part of the bumper into place and finished with the top part. The upper lip is subtle to put into place because it is necessary to find the correct position of the engine hood in order to slip it in.
Anyway you should have something looking like this now:
That is to say a fully installed and euro compliant front headlamp lighting system - from a mechanical perspective. The issue being that in order to enable the headlamp pressure washer the BCM needs to be reprogrammed.
Usually installation of a new component requires a VCI from GM. A VCI is the abbreviation for vehicle configuration index, I think so, and allows you to enable/customise the behaviour of the car. Unless you have connections, my experience is that this is simply not possible.
To my knowledge, in Europe, most people install an Opel headlamp washer that is triggered every time the windshield washer is activated. This is a perfectly legal installation, however it is not how the Euro Corvettes behave.
The OEM Corvette Headlamp Pressure Washer system that has been installed is activated for every three impulses of the windshield washer pump.
For every activation of the high pressure washer system, an initial spray of 2 seconds is followed by a longer spray, with a slight delay between the two.
This washing system is handled by the BCM and it therefore needs to configured in order for the Headlamp Washer system to be enabled.
At this point I would like to draw your attention on an extremely important problem. The turn signals in Europe are distinct from the DRL and as such are not designed to function continuously: they will overheat and melt.
So unless you reprogram the BCM you need an electronic circuit or you need to switch the DRL off during the day time.
Some people have installed the side repeater turn signals because of the looks without reprogramming: this is a big NO-NO here.
It is possible to install a set of orange LED but this requires some modification to the housing. If the incandescent light bulbs are left in the housing it will melt! I know I tried.
However I do not know how reliable and durable the LED will be.
Clearly the front turn signal housing is not designed in the European model to be used as a DRL: the following photo illustrates the differences between the US (metal prong) and the Euro model (plastic prong)
The Euro socket lasted about a month of DD, in US mode, before it got so burnt that the bulbs ceased to function.