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Old 07-28-2018, 04:58 PM   #1
rusted40
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75 build 2.0

This car has given me 10 years of fun and reliability,
here is the first go-round

a few suspension upgrades and a mild 283(not 383)




Mostly stock exterior and the wheels that came with the car.
I will definately have to upgrade the rims and tires.


Increased aftermarket support allows me to take fun to the next level.

Ridetech Track1 and Tom's 31 spline outers with billet yokes.


The frame will get the usual reinforcements before any of this goes in.


Crower, Brodix and many other things.


I decided to try something different, here is an initial mock up.


Stock fan shroud will work, just had to low mount the alternator, and switch to manual brakes (that I am happy with so far)


I modified the stock hood to cover it all up and direct air through the IC. IATs and lack of visibility may force me to change this, we will see...


I will try to take pictures and give updates as I go
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:49 PM   #2
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Very nice

Please keep up on the pictures and the updates.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:41 PM   #3
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Crower Maxlight Billet 4340 Connecting Rods.
Crower Eduro Stainless Hp18 rockers.
Diamond Pistons with D-cups provide excellent Quench and flame front travel.
Much more.

Looking at around 1000 Hp On High Boost Twin Turbo my guess so far.
Has to wind up and will.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:59 PM   #4
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Those Rubber couplers are troublesome when its hot and boost is high.
Like to pop off.
Bead rolling is one solution.
Tigging and eliminating as many couplers another way.

Wiggens Clamps.
Expensive each at $100.
Work best.
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:03 AM   #5
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What's with the glove ?
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Currently 93 Ruby 40th Aniv Drop Top/6-Spd

previous 58,68,70,76,78,85,90
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:45 AM   #6
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What's with the glove ?
Got to hold the cooler in place somehow
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RACING...Because with baseball, football, basketball, tennis, and golf, you only need one ball

I used to think that I had learned patience as I got older. Then I realized that I just didn't give a shit
Old 07-29-2018, 08:18 AM   #7
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The aftermarket block, heads, mounts, should have the same dimensions as the 283, but its so tight I wont make anything final until I get the new engine in.

alot of good ideas here http://gurneyflap.com/engine.html unlimited money skill and equipment would be nice...


Thanks for the input everyone
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:44 AM   #8
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alot of good ideas here http://gurneyflap.com/engine.html unlimited money skill and equipment would be nice...

That F1 Honda engine with the clear lid is just sexy.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:31 PM   #9
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Tom's 31 spline axles require a special inner bearing with the race ground to a smaller diameter.
This pretty much removes the radius on the back of the race making the sqareness of the spindle housing bore critical.
I cleaned up the bottom of the bore so the race would seat.


with the races in I move on to setting up the bearing spacers


I square the spacer in the lathe and cut off the amount of slop indicated from the setup tool. .001 usually gives 6 in lbs of preload for a pinion bearing, so I shaved it several times to create some slight preload.


That moves me to another special piece that moves the inner seal out. These rings have to be pressed in with retaining compound.


I will let it dry overnight and press it all together tomorrow
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:11 AM   #10
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Install went pretty good considering this is a fairly new product.
There were a few snags, but Ridetech was very helpful getting everything sorted out.


I will put some test miles on it before I start the engine swap.
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Old 11-18-2018, 04:48 PM   #11
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new engine in, time to wire and finish plumbing
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:07 PM   #12
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Mostly done, engine pulls 16" of vacuum at 900 rpm.
Not bad for a solid roller.



I added some gauges to make it easier to tune and keep an eye on things, and I like gauges.

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Old 12-17-2018, 11:02 PM   #13
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I can't imagine that intercooler is doing too much laying down like that without any cool air able to pass through it's core. How are your iat's?
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:36 AM   #14
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My main goal was to have a normally functoning hood and no electric fan. Extended idling in the shop shows no sign of heatsoak and IATs are pretty close to ambient.



I did some "wind tunnel" testing with a furnace fan and some ribbons. Even with low 30-40 mph wind speed the ribbons stayed pulled against the top of the intercooler, and ones placed in other places showed plenty of circulation.

I can at least putt around and work all the bugs out.
At any rate if it doesnt work out, I will probably go electric fan, FMIC, and put a stock hood back on
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:40 PM   #15
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Finally got to burn some gas and do some logging.

I'm tuning the car in open loop so its still a little fat under boost.

I started logging with the engine cold with 66 degree IAT and at 10psi it would go up to 71 degrees. At cruise it settled back to 67 or so.
I dont have compressor outlet temps, but with a modest 150 degree guesstimate, that is pretty high IC effeciency.



Not bad for a shakedown run, next will be some better tires and wheels.

Last edited by rusted40; 12-30-2018 at 08:52 AM.
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