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Old 08-10-2009, 06:30 PM   #31
Grumpy 427
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Well looks like the plan changed a bit, the metal channel under the body that the bushing fits into is rotted at the 2 kick panel holes, so now i need to fab plates or large washers for every hole so it all stays even.
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:29 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Grumpy 427 View Post
Well looks like the plan changed a bit, the metal channel under the body that the bushing fits into is rotted at the 2 kick panel holes, so now i need to fab plates or large washers for every hole so it all stays even.
bummer. Sounds like you and Jeff (Sofast4u) are in a similar boat. Post pics of your fix when you get around to it
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:44 PM   #33
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I have a buddy who works for a lazer cutting place here in the city, I will go see him and get him to make me 4 plates with holes for all for body mounts and 16 spare shims for holes 1&4.


Drivers side





Pass side.

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Old 08-11-2009, 02:43 PM   #34
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I have a buddy who works for a lazer cutting place here in the city, I will go see him and get him to make me 4 plates with holes for all for body mounts and 16 spare shims for holes 1&4.


Drivers side





Pass side.

Interesting. Are you planning on welding these in place?
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:30 PM   #35
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No, i will undercoat everything and glue them in with seam sealer.The body mount will hold it all in place once it is sandwiched together.
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:52 PM   #36
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Hey Grumpy the companies below have replacement channels. Just a thought.



http://www.volvette.com


http://www.zip-corvette.com
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:15 PM   #37
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I had my buddy laser cut me some new plates, i will seam seal them in place, and just let the body and frame hold them together.

Mount #3 Pass side.





Mount 2 Pass side.



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Old 08-22-2009, 06:21 PM   #38
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they look pretty robust and like they fit pretty snugly in the channel. Sure is a lot easier than replacing the channels
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Old 08-22-2009, 07:00 PM   #39
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Yeah they are 1/8 thick, and cut to fit. I had plates made for the top side as well as extra shims to make up the difference.
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:42 AM   #40
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Your buddy has talent! Those look like they belong there.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:07 AM   #41
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I took my time to measure them correctly, and he had the laser cutter do the rest lol. Yes they look great.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #42
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Any regrets with POLY mounts??

Thanks lsejlowe for taking the time to post this step-by-step with pics.

I'm in the process of replacing my body mounts on my 1970 BB. (Actually I have alot of the frame to body patrs all ready disconnected for other reasons). Anyway, I don't have any of the rust issues as the mounts, cages, etc were replaced 4 years ago (not by me). Don't ask why i'm doing it again but they need to be redone.

I'm wanting to go with poly for the reasons others have stated. A little more forgiving than the alum spacers but not as mushy as the rubbers but more importantly the general consensus/opinions that they will hold up better than rubber.

Anyway, for those that went with Poly several years ago(specifically the Energy Suspension brand), any issues or regrets?

THANKS!
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:03 PM   #43
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Hey kmoore, welcome to DC!

no regrets for me on the poly, but I smashed up the body work on the car 4 years ago at the track. The car'ss been sitting for most of the time since then. Can't say I've noticed any degredation of the mounts in that time, but I haven't looked too closely. I'll try to remember to take a peek this evening to see how they look
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Old 11-27-2013, 07:10 PM   #44
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Great post, I`m glad to see this because the previous owner of my car gave me all new BM rubbers (he said a upgraded GM version). I will have to look at them though because they still have to be 20 years old and as cheap as the new ones are it would probably be worthwhile to get new ones. (?)
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:55 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsejlowe View Post


with the body sitting loosely on the mounts I've noticed that the #1 and #4 bushings are not supporting any weight. The driver's door also doesn't line up with the striker as well as it used to. I attribute this to the body sagging and settling while the #3 and #7 mounts slowly disintegrated. Hopefully it will conform to the new mounts, but I may add a few additional shims to #4 to compensate a bit. I'm also hoping that I will have enough adjustment at the door hinges to get it to line up with the striker better. I'm open to suggestions if anyone thinks I'm crazy on this.
Did the body ever conform to the new mounts or did you have to compensate by adding shims to #4 and #8 mounts? Can you buy open ended shims that allow you to add/subtract shims without removing the bolt? I have an 81 C3. On the passenger side the front door gap is wider at the top above the beauty line and the hood to fender gap is very tight just at that corner. At the back of the door the gap is even top to bottom. The door gaps and hood to fender gaps are even on the driver side. So I'm hoping to correct the gaps on the passenger side by adding shims to the #5 body mount. Do you think that will fix the problem? I don't know if I will have to unbolt all the stuff just to raise that #5 area 1/4" to shove some shims in it. I will eventually replace all the body mounts but this car is my daily driver so a quick fix will have to do for now. How are the procedures for replacing the body mounts on an 81 different from your 69? What product did you use to clean your mount areas before painting them with POR-15? Thanks for any help you can offer. I really enjoyed reading your thread.-Very well written with a couple of laughs thrown in.
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